EkuJustice

Use regular "conventional" lube. If it has specific prep instructions on how to apply it avoid it. There is no magic lube that lubricates, stays dry and keeps the crud flowing off the gun. The frog lube is more like a wax that warms up and turns liquid when heated up. Not good for cold or tight guns. There are people who swear by it but its often the glock guys who are gun owners not shooters and whos gun sits in a safe then goes and shoots at an indoor range 100 rounds every month or 2 and has a glock which has such loose tolerences the lube dosent matter at all

LOP for a fixed A1 stock is 12.875 LOP for a fixed A2 stock is 13.5 LOP for a magpul CTR Commercial is 10.95 Collapsed, 14.75 fully extended LOP for a magpul CTR Milspec is 10.7 Collapsed 13.95 Fully extended Those shouuld give you an idea as to how long it is based on other stocks With the light upper the stock weight dosent matter as much in the range that people have listed. For a heavy nose gun, you would want a heavier stock to balance ie out ie 20Inch Hbar would be way nose heavy

What do you have on the front of the gun? the stock changes the balance and feel of the gun for sure and if its a heavier front end a super light stock may not be a good thing. The Magpul MOE rifle is a good fixed stock or even a std A2 on a budget

5 here on the rare chance I do shoot single stack. I ran 4 a couple years ago didnt have any issues but i do shoot minor

Red Loctite WILL work if you prep it properly with a degreaser that totally strips oil off with no residue left. Degrease it with something that will not leave a residue such as acetone and let it dry totally. Then apply the loctite and let it sit for 24 hours before using. It will lock it up just fine and is doing what it is suppose to do, be a thread locker. JB weld does a lot of stuff well but its not a thread locker. This is one of the many things where its all in the prep work as to how it turns out. I have seen several things where basically no degreasing is done or it is degreased but a residue is left and just covered in loctite not hold so the JB weld is slathered all over it and basically messing stuff up and still not work or break loose again. The red loctite withstands a lot of heat so it shouldn't be breaking loose if you can still hold the gun If that was done like mentioned above and it still broke loose try this and it WILL NOT come off. The rockset is used for muzzle attachments usually ones with suppressors attached so it handles EXTREME heat much higher than loctite. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/168884/flexbar-rocksett-high-temperature-thread-locking-compound-2-oz

A manufacturer can move the serial number

Are you having issues because its hitting the mount or what kind of issues are you having. FTE can be a lot of different things and different causes

When it comes to standard lowers a lot of it is the name on the side honestly. Outside of the standard lowers you are seeing some made with flared mag wells etc that sell for more. I have build several on the Anderson uppers and lowers which are one of the low priced ones and have had go fit and finish on every one I have built. They actually make the lowers themselves as well as making lowers for other much more known companies. If you can find it they have one with an integral trigger guard that is nice and AIM usually has them. The uppers, they have one that's a "sporter" which has a deflector but no dust cover or forward assist and is nice if you don't want or need those on the gun(competition gun with JP lightened bolt carrier with no serrations). On any of them just stick with the aluminum ones and avoid the other plastic, magnesium ones etc. These days the companies are pretty much all turning out a nice in spec lower

Have a bladetech injected molded one I clip on for the sole purpose of reload from belt stages. For regular stages, I put an appropriate mag in the gun to finish the stage. I just throw a spare in the back pocket as kinda an emergency mag. I havent needed to use it yet

I would say the 40s would be pushing it with a 1/8 twist. Usually i would try and stick with 55 up and weight wist but a 50 probably wound t be an issue. the 40s MAY have issues but the only way to know is to try it in your barrel.

Have you tried it on different uppers? Have you tried squaring the upper when you installed the barrel? Some are off and dont allow the barrel to sit is as well. Here is the lapping tool and good instructions on how to use one http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/receiver-tools/ar-15-m16-upper-receiver-lapping-tool-prod20220.aspx

Buckmark or ruger(mark2, 3 or 22/45) Both run well, can be upgraded easily with lots of stuff avaliable and just seem to work better than the "smaller version of a centerfier guns"

For the non bay matches most want magnification or if they are shooting irons/1x they are using something like a prismatic/spitfire which is a 1x reticle that works like a scope so the center is crisp for the distance shots. On red dot with magnifier, like was said the dot gets bigger too, and isnt as crisp as the center of a scope and you have 2 options and thats it. With a scope you have the option to give it just a little magnification and have the field of view or crank it up if your shooting long range where you want more magnification. For the close range bay stuff a red dot works well. Our last rifle only match was after our pistol match and we modified the stages VERY little and shot it with rifles, They were all down and out drag race stages and 4 of the top 5 were shooting limited ie red dot and actually only 1 in the top 4 shot a non SBR. If your able to set up different guns for different stuff you can use the one ideal to the match. For a one gun does all the scope just works best as its almost as fast up close as a dot and makes distance easier with the smaller crisper aiming point. You also dont have something off to the side of the rifle.

+1 on the gcode I have felt both the gcode as the wrs for my 2011 and went with the gcode as the good was just easier to operate for me at least. The only reason I was debating between them is safariland didnt make a 6inch 2011 ALS. My glock has an ALS and I think that's the best holster for 3 gun by far. I think I am using the glock this year for 3 gun unless there are a lot of long small targets

What kind of ammo were you using in the Nordic that got 3 Moa.

That's for production that if it's not stated it's allowed it's not allowed. For limited/lim10/open if it's not specifically disallowed it's allowed. That's why you occasionally saw slide rackets on limited guns as it never said you couldn't

If you have put triggers in the gun, the upper is easy. Usually if you know someone at the club who has done them it can be accomplished for the cost of a few beers when its done and is some nice information to have. It all depends on how light you wanna go . For the 16 inch barrel a mid length gas system works well. Vodoo has a ultralight barrel thats a mid length http://www.midwayusa.com/product/3346140757/voodoo-innovations-barrel-ar-15-556x45mm-nato-ultra-lightweight-contour-1-in-7-twist-chrome-moly-black-melonite-finish?cm_vc=ProductFinding For hand guards, the midwest industries 15 inch keymod is under 10 oz complete and has a slim profile which is very easy to brace with. For uppers, if you dont want a forward assist or dust cover Anderson has a well made sporter upper that has the deflector but nothing else.which is nice if your running a light weight carrier where there are no serrations for the forward assist anyway

Fowl shot, low light matches depend on the area but I can say I have yet to shoot one around here at all as they aren't around me at least. As to 40 vs 9mm. I would get the 40 and do run a 40 myself which is a 6 inch gun with the slide lightened quite a bit or a Glock 35 with a Zev topend I won. For me,I had the limited gun and didnt wanna buy a gun specifically for 3 gun. I load 40 minor for 3 gun down to 138 PF and it shoots every bit as flat and soft as a 9mm if not more so. It works better for steel thats set heavy and even a marginal hit will often bring the steel down. If I have something thats set real heavy or a spinner I simply use my 40 Major USPSA rounds. The only difference between how i run it for 3 gun and how i run it for uspsa is I run a 12.5 pound spring for the major and a 10 for the minor ammo but the 10 is fine for major as well if need be. The capacity difference in my 140s for the 40 and my open 140s in 9mm are 20 rounds of 40 vs 23 in 9mm. I have yet to run into a stage where the difference in those 3 rounds made a difference as I plan my stage plan around a reload if necessary thats a time neutral reload. In a 2011, the 40s are the easiest to have run, then the 9mms and then the 45s. On a 40, I can take a tube add grams springs and followers and a basepad and get 20 rounds without any adjusting. My open mag, I have had to install spacers and play with the feedlips to get the 100 percent reliable. As far as versatility, you get more bang for your buck out of a 40

Ya 18 pounds is way heavy especially for a competition gun. Usually the ones pushing the 18 pound springs are the "tactical" guys. My springs are as follows Open 9mm Major--8 pound 40 Cal limited gun 6 inch(major PF)--12.5 pounds 40 Cal 6 inch Minor PF(3 gun)--10 pound 9mm Single stack--9 pound 45 Single stack 14 pound 45 Carry gun--16 pound

Rifle distance shooting will definitely help especially in different positions and some not so stable or even off hand ones as you don't always get a good position available. Shotgun loading is another one. The lightning fast ones taken prepping yourself and getting all ready to go, looking down at the caddies before you hit the buzzer and then go standing in your living room look good on camera to post online. Work more on getting consistent reloads in actual "match conditions" ie moving over stuff and actually negotiating around and not just standing there. I will take a slower CONSISTENT load I can do all day long and am not dropping shells etc Practice shooting under different physical conditions to see how it affects your shooting so you can get a better idea of what you are capable of when you get there to shoot. If you have alot of long stages with a lot of movement this helps a lot. try moving running etc right before you get up to shoot some distance stuff. You should try and get a rough idea how fast you can move before shooting and get there as fast as you can in a way that it dosent affect your ability to make the shot. If you flat out sprint and get there to take your 300 yard rifle shot and your scope is bouncing all over because your out of breath it does you no good to get there fast. Shooting on the move vs when not to shoot on the move. This has its advantages as long as its used right. What you don't want to do is do the foot shuffle where you are barely moving and your speed and accuracy suffer as a result. What you wanna see is how far of a target you can KNOW you got your hits and not just hoping for them while moving at a good pace. Try arrays with shooting on the move and posting up and see which is faster for you under what circumstances. shooting on the move is NOT always faster. Work on kinda stage breakdown, how to minimize your movements and how to get into and out of positions and how to break down a stage well. Good example is for pistol on that is TGO. He dosent look near as fast as he is because he just flows through the stage so well and does not waste time with extra movement and he he gets into the position ready to shoot and leaves the position as soon as possible and dosent hang out. For 3 gun, Taran is another one who has extremely good movement. This can be done with stages and ports, prone positons etc set up and can even be done with a 22 as the movement and the time in and out is what your working on over just the shooting. Video this from a non body camera and see where you are loosing time. are you coming into a position with the gun up ready to go when your feet plant or are you wasting time getting the gun ready when you setup. When leaving are you ready to go and leaving when that last shot is broke. Movement is an easy way to pick up time.

this was from a store around here this afternoon about 3 oclock so thats whats left after all day friday and most of the day saturday and its a very large gun shop. the limit was 10 "bricks" ie 300 packs per person. I was well stocked myself buy got the 3rd picture ie the whole case for a friend

I am a fan of the 6 inch gun as well. I usually run my 40 cal limited gun with minor PF ammo for 3 gun as its more versatile for me as I can use it for USPSA limited as well without getting minor PF. It shoots very flat and soft with the minor ammo and I am really only giving up 3 rounds to a 9mm which I have never had make a difference and it is nice if there are far poppers that are set a little heavy or with a marginal/low hit, or a spinner etc. The 6 inch shines on the larger and smaller targets we are starting to see more and more

A 1911 and a glock do point differently. An arched MSH on a 1911 does make it feel and point more like a glock. There really isn't a 40 equivalent to a 35 with a comp in the 2011 without a custom job. Big reason is the 40 with a compensator is not a seller as it would be open for USPS and not legal for IDPA. For competition guns STI makes guns that are basically the popular configurations for each of those games. A 40 compensator gun just wouldn't sell. To add a comp to a gun like you can just dosent work as easy as it does on a glock. On the glock it's buy a barrel and comp and throw it together with some loctite and your GTG. On an STI it requires fitting the barrel and comp to the slide and cutting the slide to allow for clearence for the comp. that's gonna cost a couple hundred or more in labor alone plus the cost of the barrel and comp so to switch a factory gun over would run 600+ so that makes a custom the better option as it's built that way from the start. If you wanna tone down the recoil if a glock and help keep it on target more add weight. An SJC frame weight and a brass SJC or ZEV magwell( depending on hand size) will add a lot of weight to the gun. If your still wanting to get the sti you could try one property setup without the comp and see how it does. Even a 45 isn't slow on target if it's setup right

I am a fan of the 40 over the 9mm. 40 minor is extremely soft and flat shooting and works better on the heavy set steels spinners etc. You really are just giving up a couple rounds which isn't an issue for me

For pistols, if you reload ammo the glock 22 is usually VERY cheap as police trade ins and the 40 minor is a soft shooting round.