B_RAD

Can't see how it can be. It weighs like 46 oz. IDPA can't exceed 43 oz.

Well, I removed it and I can't feel a difference and the hammer still doesn't clear the sear with the trigger pulled.

Ah!..... i tried what you what you described and mine does not clear going forward. The hammer catches the sear(trigger held). I figured it was supposed to. Now I may adjust the overtravel screw. Actually, I'll probably remove it. Don't want it backing out at the wrong moment.

If the hammer clears the sear going forward, wouldnt that lead to hammer follow or worse?

Ok. I dont have one worh decocker so I don't know how those work. One more thing that's worth a try. Take the slide off. Pull the hammer back with your thumb and with the other thumb try to press on the top front end of the sear. The arm that that's contacts the safety. Press that. That may disengage the sear/hammer. Before putting the slide back on I'd make sure the safeties are working correctly with the hammer cocked. Maybe one of the levers has worked out a little? I'm fairly new to the CZ but I've taken mine apart a lot over the last three weeks. So, I don't know if that'll help but it's worth a try.

Take the mag brake and HS back out. Put them back in. I'd try to make sure the hammer is down. Very weird. Maybe you weren't holding your mouth right?

It looks like my SP-01 shadow is a tad bit over the 43 oz (w/empty mag). What are you other CZ shooters doing to get under 43 oz?

Gonna bump this up to ask, are the sp base pads IDPA SSP leagal? From what I can tell they're not more than 1oz over the factory base pads but do they fit in the box when in the gun?

Shooting a head shot at threat target because a no shoot is blocking most/all of the body is ok! (Yeah, that's real world!) Reloading before slide lock and not retaining the mag with ONE round is not ok! Cause it makes more sense to move to another position, with 2 rnds in the gun, so you can engage 3 new targets! And it's ok to leave half your upper body, the part of your body where all the vitals are located, exposed to the targets but if your toe is past cover that's a PE! The rules don't make sense! I can't believe a course tought by any of the founders of IDPA would resemble an IPDA COF! I keep repeating this!

It be cool if you could reload anyway you want behind cover. That would still be different then USPSA but be tactical enough to be IDPA. Can anyone explain the real world application to RWR?

Also want a ext firing pin (which will come with the rpfps)

I asked some friends that went. They said HQ indicated that it could be sometime after Jan 01, 17 before the new rules would take affect. Something along the the lines of them wanting to make sure they've got everything they way they want it because their goal is to not have any hanged for several years. So,.... who knows?!

Unable to write anything in the message section. I can write in the others.

Acmes are good. They have a 145 gr RN that MIGHT let you load longer OAL due to the profile. I'm not a fan of the blue Bullets. They only come in .355 and I don't like the coating.

What's the reason for not allowing adjustment screws?

I really believe half of their rules are just whatever the opposite of the other sport does. Which I can understand. If it's the same then why not just shoot one sport! That and the "spirt" of the sport is somewhat different. The only beef I have is that things that happen in the COF would not be taught or encouraged in a SD training class by any of the founders of the sport!

Also, I live near HQ and I've heard some talk about the RWR going away. Supposedly it's because the gamers are gaming and it's an advantage to them. Is it true? IDK. If it is true, does that mean slide lock anywhere is comming and it'll be the only way to reload? Again, IDK? But to echo my previous post, the new pts down/time rule and no RWR will only encourage more dumping. Cause gamers gonna game!

1 pt = 1 sec gonna mean make up shots like crazy? you could make up a -1 in .5 sec and be better off. I know I'll be more likely to make up any called bad shots. I mean, if you think you got -3 you have 3 sec to make up with a -0 and break even. The good shooters aren't even gonna need a third of that! This rule is gonna seperate the winners from the losers even more cause everyone either makes a bad shoot here and there or they go so slow they're not in the running. The top scorers already shoot fast and accurate. Then you add in the make ups on -3 or misses, again which the better shooters (EX and up) can do better than the SS and down, the divide is only gonna be worse. For instance, I like hard shots. I believe myself to be a good shot. And I know that the hard shots are gonna give everyone problems but I'm confident I can do them better than most. (We're talking non pros). So, if I feel I've made a bad shot, I should be able call it and make it up faster than others. Which just makes the gap larger. Assuming I'm good at calling shots, and I am a good shot that can shoot fast, but you get the idea!

I've tried it on 1911's before. If it works for you do it!

It's happening!

One would think!

Not to hijack this thread but I've got a friend that wants to sell me his target 2 for a killer price. I'm a little hesitant because I'm thinking the equipment checker guy will see target sights and be like, "this I at leagal"! I don't want to deal with trying tot explain that the slide has not been milled for the low profile adj sight. Might not be a problem but just don't want to be DQ'd. As a CSO have you seen the target 2? Are you familiar with it? There's only 80 different variants to the dang shadows so it's hard to keep up and know what's what.

Well, I'm just providing the OP with my opinions. Wasn't trying to start an argument. Believe it or not, some folks aren't all that good at taking parts out and putting them back in. Doesn't mean they shouldn't be shooting the gun. I don't really need to say much about the hack comment since the smiths in question are pretty well established to not be hacks! Some of the parts you're talking about can require fitting. Also, I'd bet some of the parts could be made better by stoning certain parts. The shops can see that and address it. Where as a shooter, tinkerer might not see those small things. They know these parts way better than the average guy would! Not saying a DIY job can't be as good. Just saying got think about it from more than the cost angle.

You're gonna get a lot of folks telling you to search for this topic. However, I'll offer up my limited experience with the CZ shadow. I just got one from AA as I'm making the switch from a Glock 34. I've borrowed a friends CZC. So, over the last couple of days I've compared them against each other. Ok, they do feel different but they also have different triggers. Since I'm new to CZ's I can't think of which models are which. The non-technical terms would be the one from CZC has the most curved trigger and the AA has the trigger with less curvature. The AA pulls less on the trigger gauge (I tested them last night) and it's also smoother to me. The CZC is slightly more crisp on SA pull but only barely. Again to me. You gotta realize that all parts are different and in combination with another part can make for a different feel for each different gun. So, I believe it's all to be taken with a grain of salt. Now, I'll say this, I met the guys from AA when picking mine up. I've also talked with them several times over the last several weeks during the whole process. And I've been pleased with thier service! I spent some time with Matt this last weekend and he's a freakin bad mofo when it comes shooting, he is also a cool guy! Extremely informative and answered all my questions, and I asked a lot! They will go the extra mile to take care of you. I have no doubt! I'm sure CZC and CGW would also take care of you too! I've actually talked with them all via email and AA, CGW over the phone. I've never been able to get CZC on the phone. As as for doing it yourself,..... Do you have the right tools? Do you know what to do? I'd be leery of someone who's not renowned for doing this work to offer up instruction. Take the wrong angle off and yup you've ruined a part at the very least. So, ask is your time and any hair pulling worth it the money you'd spend on the labor(still gotta buy parts). I say hair because I've wanted to pull mine out before from getting into something I wasn't equipped to take on. Though I'm bald so,..... I just end up scraping my scalp. One last thing, which is gonna be easier to resale? One built buy a pro like AA or one that's been bubba'd? Any potential buyer is gonna wonder if it's gonna function and if it's gonna go full auto! At least I would! Good luck!