Hi-Power Jack

I've done all of the first three - gee, never thought of bashing them on line - great idea.

The only three things that matter at your first match are, in no particular order : 1. Safety 2. Safety 3. Safety. A distant fourth is accuracy. The LEAST Important thing is SPEED. Keep your finger out of the trigger guard until you're ready to shoot, listen carefully to the RO, don't fall with a gun in your hand, if you drop the gun - don't try to catch it midair, watch your 180 (your first shoot, I'd make that a 160), don't bring any ammo to the safe table, in short, don't get DQ'd or endanger anyone at the shoot. Oh, and enjoy.

Steel grips S_I. No thumb rest.

I just re-read it - looks like you're probably correct, Memphis. Sorry about that.

I believe it's a Glock.

Have you cleaned out the extractor tunnel ?

What's the velocity on that ?

Any specific spots that tended to rust first ? Any photos would be interesting.

That's why you drop the hammer.

Eric, how many grains HS-6 are you using ? (I know I'll have to work up with a chrono, just wondering where you are ? )

Remington Green Box, 115 gr FMJ used to chrono near 127 PF out of my BHP, when I shot iron sights.

Determine your OAL for that bullet with Your gun, and then work up your load slowly, with a chrono. Which powder are you using ?

That is incredible - $700 for a 1-8.5x scope. Is the quality as good as the Vortex Razor ?

But, that spills a lot of powder on the reloader, doesn't it ?

Exactly. I use WAC in my 9mm Major so I have room in the case for a bullet, despite the fact that slower powders offer a large benefit in terms of muzzle rise. You don't have that problem with .38 Super. You are accepting the disadvantage of .38 Super (buying brass) AND the disadvantage of WAC - too fast a powder to work the comp.

As 4n2 mentioned, set your OAL first - then start low and work up your powder charge using a chrono. Sounds like you're using a very fast powder, if the recommended range is 4.5 - 4.8 gr.

If you're not too far from FL, let me know when you shoot that 20mm.

I shoot a 50 ounce OPEN gun with comp and optical sight in competition and carry an 11 ounce KelTec P11 most of the time. There is really very little similarity between shooting a 32 round COF against 16 targets, all in bright sunshine, the targets don't move, you know where they are before you shoot them, and most important - they are NOT shooting back, and being attacked without warning, usually at night, by a single assailant who is moving fast. One is a game - there you want a match gun. The other is serious - you want a sturdy gun with a heavier trigger. I would buy the best match gun I could afford and practice with both guns often to keep up your ability to hit a target quickly with either gun. I believe you will learn enough with the match gun that your shooting with the service weapon will improve, not drop. Just MHO.

Big boy toys …..

The question has come up before, and I have read that there are some people very happy using 147 gr bullets in OPEN. Doesn't sound right to me, but I've never tried them personally - only tried 115's and 124's.

Never had to. Always shot with two eyes open, and never had a problem with it. BUT, from reading the advice here, it sounds like a pretty good solution, if its a problem.

Sounds like three choices : 1. put tape on glasses 2. dry fire a LOT 3. see two targets I can't think of a fourth alternative

Sean, you made these points in your initial posting, and now you're refuting all the explanations to your question. And, that's your prerogative. You can continue to believe them. But, the responders are very experienced, including a number of people who have shot minor and major (I have, also). But, once again : 1. you do not have to shoot all A's to make A class. If you are shooting Major, speed can make up for some C's. 2. You are correct, Major does make more recoil in a scientific sense, but it is possible to shoot Major as fast as you can shoot Minor 3. If you reload, the price is Very Similar (My 9 mm Major is less expensive than my 9mm Minor, because of the heavier bullet). Most A shooters are reloading. You are probably correct that if you are NOT reloading, Major is more expensive. Matter of fact, I doubt you can purchase .40 Minor - most of it is Major +++ (PF 180 or more). Tough to find .40 at PF 140 or 172. Not trying to argue with you, but very experienced shooters (HCH, Cuban, Memphis, RJH and IMA45 ) are all giving you some Very Practical Answers to your question. The practical advantages of shooting Major overcome the theoretical disadvantages of shooting Minor, except in Revolver and possibly SS. As HCH mentioned, no GM's are shooting Minor when they can shoot MAJOR. Yes, you are correct that there are theoretical advantages to shooting minor, and cost is sometimes one if you don't reload, but the bulk of A/M/GM's are reloading. Not to dissuade you from shooting Minor - try it - I shot Limited Minor for a few years and enjoyed it. Couldn't get out of C class, but it was a weekend's entertainment. But, not to listen to the practical advice you've been given by some excellent shooters above is doing YOU a disservice.

What happens if you remove the distance contact in your left eye ?

I haven't seen any difference between brass and nickel plated, but have read the nickel will peel off - I've never seen that though. You can swap bullets, if they're the same type - lead, coated, jacketed. You can use any of these, but in OPEN, you might want to used completely jacketed bullets to prevent clogging your comp. Lead will go faster, all else equal, than jacketed. But, if you cut the powder down, and work up slowly with a chrono, you should be okay. If you're going to wait 12-18 months for your Open gun, I'd stay away from HS6 which is very dirty at Minor loadings, and get a powder for Minor , e.g. WW231 or N320. Then use the HS6 for your Open loads. Don't try working up your Major loads until you get the gun. Don't want to have 1,000 rounds lying around that don't work well in your gun. Not sure why, but I get the feeling that you're NOT waiting for a 2011 for your OPEN gun ??? Glock ?