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PaleoMan

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About PaleoMan

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Paul Michali

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  1. When I was searching for my .22, I found that the Mark IV 22/45 has a different grip angle (~1911) than the Mark IV Standard.
  2. I've just gone through the same scenario are you are pondering... wanted to practice with .22 to save some money (though I reload and 22 ammo is more than 9mm reloads, but I'm running low on primers). I also am pondering doing SC and adding an optic for my aging eyes. It seems like there are lots of customizations that can be done, so I focused on checking how easy it was to access the controls with my hands. For me, the S&W Victory and Ruger 22/45 had the most comfortable grips with best access to all controls. Browning and the wooden grips on some of the Rugers just didn't fit my
  3. When I use mine outdoors, like I did today, I set it at 30 feet (we have target rails at 20 and 30 feet). I set the five measurement distances at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 feet. If indoor, I set the target to 25 feet.
  4. Hi, I've been shooting for about 4 years, mostly with a Walther Q5 SF in 9mm, and a small amount with S&W 1911 in .45 ACP. I also have a Walther PPQ M2 4" in 9mm that I first started with, but moved to the Q5 about a year ago. I like participating in Steel Challenges and USPSA, but am really a beginner, am am looking for a way to work on fundamentals to improve my skills. I dry fire about three times a week using an iTarget (laser) setup. Slow firing I do OK (not spectacular) - within a 2.5-3" diameter circle at seven yards - the most I can do indoors. I'm only gett
  5. Just from training, I was taught to lock the slide back and both physically and visually check that the chamber was empty, before handling off a handgun or when accepting one. when I take training classing, they often have students lock back slides, as instructors go down the line checking chambers are empty. When I compete, I tend to follow a similar process, locking back the slide and visually checking the chamber is empty and showing the open chamber to the RO. I don’t physically check the chamber during competition. I‘ve seen ROs, especially with newer shooters like myself, wanting to rea
  6. Yeah, I don't have a problem disengaging the lock - slight pull on slide works fine. For locking back, I've always been more comfortable locking the slide and actually physically checking that the chamber is empty (versus visually checking). Granted, I only plan on competing occasionally with this gun, as a way to get more practice time with it. Main role will be for CCW.
  7. Hi! New Hellcat owner. I love the (iron) sights, and grip on this gun, and am learning to shoot it better each time I go out (only have about 200 rounds so far - checking POA/POI). However, the only nit I have, which I sort of noticed when I was checking it out at the store, before buying, is that the fairly flush slide lock button is really hard for me to engage. I pull the slide back with my left hand, and try to push up with the thumb (the lock is right there at the joint), but can't seem to engage easily. The only way I can seem to do it, is with moving the fingers of my right
  8. Every time I access the site, I have to log in (I've always used my display name). When I do that, I see the message: Sorry, there is a problem Something went wrong. Please try again. Error code: 2S119/1 But I am then logged in. Any suggestions? Using Chrome on a Mac. Started doing this after the update.
  9. On my second box of 12000, and they have been working well. I do use slightly more powder than with CCI. Only complaint I have is the individual packets are 150 primers, which I have to split to groups of 100 for my Dillon press. I usually end up making multiples of 300 cartridges at a time because of that.
  10. Thanks dsa! I've been enjoying the S&W E-series quite a bit. Looking forward to getting it out today and back soon (S&W says 3-4 weeks turn around). Regards,
  11. Contacted S&W and will send it back to them for repair. Someone pointed out a tool for about $60 to stake the tube, but I'll let S&W fix it this time. I'm curious if it just a normal wear thing, if it is a weakness in the S&W (or 1911 in general) design, or if there is some action I'm doing to loosen the tube (not sure what that would be). If it occurs again (and based on what this costs to repair), I may consider getting the tool.
  12. Thanks all! It does seem like the plunger tube is loose, as the safety is moving normally. The gun is out of the one year warranty period, but I'll call S&W anyways and see what they say. Is this just something that can loosen over time? Certainly is something I need to check periodically, as I found the issue while practicing (dry fire), and was planning on using it at a Steel Challenge match tomorrow. Fortunately, it's my back up gun Regards,
  13. Hi! I have a S&W 1911 E-series. Had a few instances where it seemed like it was difficult to disengage the safety, and then finally, yesterday, I could not disengage during dry firing. I found that the plunger for the thumb safety, which should press up against the thumb safety, seems to be riding up over and therefore the thumb safety cannot be pushed down. I had to manually push in the plunger to be able to operate the safety and then be able to rack and remove round/etc. A few questions... Is the plunger bent? Any idea as to how that could have happened (s
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