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Hi-Power Jack

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Everything posted by Hi-Power Jack

  1. North Korea has agreed to "de-nuclearize" .
  2. True dat. Nuttin' to do with "crimp", though ...
  3. No second place winner in this game ....
  4. I used to have to clean my C-More after every stage, until I switched from oil to Brian's Slide-Glide Now, don't EVER have to wipe the C-More.
  5. Before you trust it completely, try a hundred rounds and make sure it's tight enough to catch all the oversized rounds
  6. Have you done any reloading ? With 9mm, you want to use a fast powder (WW231, N320, etc). Primers, brass don't matter - use anything you can de-prime. Bullets are personal choice - coated lead is fine for 9mm Minor - most beginners prefer heavier bullets (135, 147) etc. Getting the OAL and "crimp" right seem to be a problem for many beginners. OAL -- run The Plunk Test to determine your longest OAL, and back it off a bit - make sure that long will feed thru your mags. AND, the OAL might change with each different type bullet you use (if MG 124 JHP runs to 1.130", you might need a shorter OAl for a PD 124 JHP). "Crimp" - a taper crimp for semi-autos is really NOT a crimp, like the crimps used on revolvers. All the crimp does is remove the bell you created to seat the bullet, and renders the case straight again. Too little "crimp" and it won't feed - too much "crimp" will ruin your accuracy. Don't take someone else's formula and load up 200 of them. Try a dozen, and test them (Plunk test first, and then at the range). Best to have a $79 chrono - that way you can make sure the velocity is proper and safe
  7. You need a proper crimp so the round will feed properly, without "strangling" the bullet and affect accuracy. But, you don't need the crimp (actually straightening out the bell you produced to seat the bullet) to "hold on".
  8. Highly personal decision. If the extra $1,000 doesn't mean too much to you, once, go for it. The Razor is a ubiquitous substitute. But, not quite as good
  9. Perfect. Take a 6 o'clock hold on it, and you should be getting 4" groups in no time
  10. Keep the 550 for the 9mm and .45, and get a 1050 for the .223
  11. Watervliet is excellent. Nice guys and great COF's BUT, if you wander out of state, you can actually shoot 12 bullets in a row without reloading Don't forget CT, also.
  12. All about the sizing die ... Crimping die has NOTHING to do with holding the bullet in place in semi-auto's. Crimp makes HUGE difference in revolvers
  13. Probably get a LOT of info from the match directors of the matches you plan on attending. They probably have experience with international visitors and the specific regs for their country
  14. No need to aim at a 4" circle - take a 6 o'clock hold on a 8 - 12" circle. That should make it a little easier p.s. I thought you might be shooting plastic, but sounds like you do have a 1" gun
  15. I prefer to use different bullets for major and minor - easier to tell them apart visually - don't want to mix them up
  16. Two fingers holding the brass. ?
  17. You didn't mention what you're shooting ... Lots of guns and ammo will NOT shoot 4" groups at 25 yards. Before you can test YOUR capability, you really have to know your gun/ammos capability. If your gun is shooting 6" groups at 25 yards, I'd say you'd be doing real well to shoot 8" groups offhand. If your gun shoots 2" groups at 25 yards, then you have a real good chance of shooting 4" groups. Ten years ago, I could shoot very nice groups at 15 yards with my 45 year old BHP, using Remington green box 115 gr FMJ's but the groups fell apart at 25 yards (6+ "). I couldn't tell if it was me (eyesight) or the gun or the ammo. Had a custom BHP built by EGW, went out with Rem green box and shot 2" groups at 25 yards. It was the GUN, not me or the ammo. FIRST, test your gun and ammo - HOW? From a bench. See if the sucker will shoot as well as you do Good luck with it.
  18. People with a very strong grip are ready to fire a 2nd shot quicker than people like me - So, I don't mind "waiting for the gun" since I'm not ready anyway. If you have a very strong grip, you would probably prefer the 124's - for me 147's and possibly 165's are much nicer
  19. You don't have to worry much about bullet setback with the case stuffed with powder. Nowhere for the bullet to go Compression doesn't seem to be a problem - lots of people here compressing their loads I don't like a case that spills, either, so I went to HS6 and WAC. It's a good alternative for me, and I load them at 1.165" safely, which means I have more bullet in the case. When I loaded longer, I did experience some problems with the bullet coming out of the case during shooting. But, a little more 3n38 will make Major and fairly safely - if you don't mind the powder spillage. BTW, to test for setback, I don't use my thumb - I press the bullet hard into my reloading bench. Good luck with it
  20. Depending on your current ability and grip strength (ability to control muzzle flip), you might actually feel the 147 is "too slow" for you. Like you're "waiting for the gun" - you're ready to take the shot before the gun is ready to shoot (think 0.16 sec splits). It's personal - some prefer 124's and some prefer 147's
  21. That looks like a much more modern version of my camera. Think more along the lines of Birth of a Nation (the original film)
  22. You don't get away that easily, Steve . What's your one favorite single movie ?
  23. I doubt that I could do it that quickly, but I'd guess that anyone at 84% might be expected to do it a little quicker ?? Best I ever got was 63%, and that was 3-4 years ago, and I haven't done an awful lot of shooting since then. Tough to say, without actually trying it for myself
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