RPatton

They may be too hard for a striker fired pistol to function reliably. If you have a 1911 with a 17# mainspring they may not function 100% without an extra long firing pin. If you are already loading it hot, be aware that these primers will be even be hotter.

It looks like there is /was a portion of the bushing(on the right in the photo) that was turned down leaving a square corner where the crack initiated. Any part that has a square corner subjected to any stress will be prone to crack at that stress riser. I've got a lot of rounds on mine but I do carry a pre-fit bushing in my bag.........just in case.

I agree. Super glue is the ticket to long life. Cleaners, d-greasers, and oil will deteriorate brightness over time. I will usually change one for that reason long before breaking one.

The first rule of gunsmithing : "Always destroy the cheapest part first." can be applied to many things.

I have a Nordic barrel clamp on by Benelli and I have a scribe mark on the barrel to make sure the clamp is always in the same place. The screws that hold the clamp together have match marks on them so they get torqued down the same as they were before disassembly. With my home made low recoil slugs it will shoot 3" groups at 50 yards. If something changes my point of impact I can be pretty sure it isn't because of my barrel clamp if everything is in place.

I've found a pad to be useful in making my Benelli more comfortable to mount rapidly when shooting 3gun. Mounting the gun rapidly, I would ocassionaly smack my cheek bone. A 1/8" pad fixed that problem without changing my sight picture for slugs. I'm using a Ruger 10/22 rear sight so my head has to be in the same place every time. I shoot it like a rifle with the rear sight up. Missing static targets with a shotgun usually results from the shooter having his head up off the stock. If you can't get your head where it needs to be with a pad installed then make some other modification. You can experiment using an old mouse pad and see what works for you.

I was never able to get my M2 to run 100% with a pistol grit on it. It is close to flawless with the straight stock. The last malfunction I had was when the trigger group pin fell out, followed by the trigger group, in the middle of a 90+ round shotgun stage at the 3man3gun. Still not sure how that happened.

VVs N310. Softest shooting and cleanest burning.

If the 45 extractor does or does not catch and hold a 40 depends a lot on the model of gun you in which you try this.

I've seen 2011s and 1911s with slide to frame fits that were so close you could not feel play vertically or horizontally. Even after thousands of rounds they are still "tight" and as close to 100% reliable as possible for anything mechanical can be, even when dirty. If it rattles like a box of rocks when new, it will beat itself into a larger box of rocks sooner rather than later. Just my $.02.

I hope you don't have any permanent damage from that injury. At a USPSA match a friend and I were downrange pasting targets when he had a piece of bullet jacket come over the berm between us and the next door range and completely penetrate the top of his ear. It was bleeding from both sides. After that I bought a pair of wrap around glasses and I still try not to turn my back when people are shooting steel.

So exactly what is now wrong with the crimp die? Pictures?

Give up golf. I don't play golf but I know a lot of people that do. My head is not tough enough to have a hobby that I would have to drink to enjoy. "A golf course is a waste of a good rifle range."

Buy a timer to practice with and speed up enough to shoot some 'C's' and 'D's. That way you will know that you are going just a little too fast. As an old GM you should have enough gun handling skills so all you need is some speed. I found that one way to help fix the "screw the lefties" setup is to volunteer to set up a stage. Most of the stages I set up had movement from right to left. If there were barricades that you had to shoot around then you could bet that 'righties' would have an equally hard shot from the left as I would have from the right. The downside is that people bitched about it. The upside is that I got to tell them that the easy way to fix their problem with my stages was to come and set up their own stage. Help is always appreciated and I never was turned down when offering to set up a stage. The setup may not have been to their liking but you can bet that it was equally difficult for everyone.

Cast bullets usually have a raised area on the base due to the sprue was cut so measuring them doesn't tell you anything useful and .004" should not be of concern. I found that even though I could not push bullets back into the case by hand if I loaded them in a mag and cycled them through the gun they would be a few thou shorter. If cycled them through the gun a second time they were shorter by a greater margin. A friend of mine had a problem with random jams that was not fixed for almost a season. The Root Cause: When he would unload after a stage he would put the last chambered bullet back in a mag. Occasionally that bullet would experience enough setback the second time it hit the feedramp that it would remove enough energy from the slide and cause a jam but it did not happen consistently. At a glance a bullets recovered after a jam would not look like it had caused a problem. It appears that when you actually crimp a bullet enough to make the case mouth leave a mark on the bullet then hitting the feed ramp may push the bullet deeper into the case by a few thou but the next time it hits the feed ramp the bullet is more easily pushed back into the case since the case mouth is no longer recessed into that ring where it was initially crimped. The "crimp" on a straight walled semi auto pistol case is not to hold the bullet in the case, friction from the brass riding on the bullet does that. An EGW undersized die fixed his problem much to the relief of his gunsmith who was never able to make the gun jam no matter how much he shot it because he would always run a mag dry and start with a new one. This was happening with jacketed bullets. The feedramp angle on a 2011 is much steeper than that of a Glock so the same bullets were not being driven back into the brass in a Glock. I have tried it both ways.

I would start by doing EVERYTHING with the rifle as if I were left handed. Wrap some duct tape around the right hand. That will get you started. Getting a sight picture should come easily. It's the rest of you that will have to be trained.

Right handed and left eye dominate. Figured it out at around age 5 with a BB gun and became a left handed shooter. I found out what a dominate eye was much later. Shooting is the only thing I can do left handed. Now a pistol feel weird in my right hand and a rifle on my right shoulder feels even more weird.

Chug a beer every time that you miss a plate, the more you miss the more you drink and the harder it is to aim… what could possibly go wrong Now THAT is funny. You could make it a comedy show. So exactly what sports has TV coverage improved. It really worked for NASCAR. Now we don't see nearly as many of those nasty fist fights in the pits. Now you can watch the first 5 laps, set a timer so you can take a nap or reload some bullets, then go watch the last 5 laps. Shooting is not a spectator sport. It never has been and you can't make it one..........maybe if you were shooting targets that blew up people would watch. What shooting sport would you buy a ticket to watch?

Now that is funny. LOL

If you want it to be freshly done when you get home then get a cheap 24 hour timer so it will start a couple of hours before you get home.

That's interesting.....how long are you comfortable leaving powder in there?G I once had some Alcan powder react with the plastic so much that you could see where each flake was touching the tube. It was in Charleston SC with 99% humidity and it really affected that powder.

Loaded....sometimes. Usually leave the powder in and run it until the primers run out.

It really sucks when it gets easy to find where it was frozen after it thaws. By the way, thawing out metal pipes with a portable welder can sometimes end badly.

You probably don't feel nearly as under gunned as you would being unarmed. Any gun is a quantum leap over no gun at all.

In 9mm, I will stick with my M&P's (and me P85). Glocks have too many issues. I never found many issues with my Glocks. People picking uo and reloading brass fired in Glock seem to be the ones with problems. I use a lee carbide sizer and never had a problem using Glocked brass in my STI 40s. But I would always chamber drop my ammo. The cull rate was probably around 2% using range brass. I have seen Glock magazine ejections on 3 occasions. On two of those events the extractor was also ejected. All three events were caused by ruptured Fiocchi 40 brass. I dissected a Fiocchi 40 and it was obvious that their brass was different from other brands(Win and FC) by not being as thick where the case wall met the base. That area is much less supported in a Glock chamber compared to a 1911.