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Absocold

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About Absocold

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    Calls Shots

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    Jacksonville, FL
  • Real Name
    Daniel Mann

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  1. There is zero reason to build/buy a 300blk if you're not going to suppress it. There are better calibers for subs and much better calibers for supersonics. 300blk without a can on it is sub-par at everything and gets boring quickly because no matter what you try to do with it, there is a much better way to do it with a different caliber. The magic of 300blk is being able to go from close range movie quiet to medium range rock and roll with just a mag change - and you can't do that without the can. My advice is to take the money you'd spend on this build + gear + ammo and buy yourself a versatile suppressor that can do it all so you only need one. The SilencerCo Hybrid is a good example. Spend the money, wait the wait, THEN think about getting a caliber that was purpose built to be suppressed. Besides, suppressors are stupidly fun on any gun.
  2. Absocold

    Fun with guns

    What really sold me on this one was the pistol in his waistband with more taped mags.
  3. Bullseye powder at low pressure is dirty as hell. Original CMP/EIC 230gr ball specs called for 5 grains of Bullseye at 850fps. Match ball is typically loaded at 800-820fps for better accuracy. But even that little bit of pressure reduction gives more fouling. Below that and it gets downright filthy. Sure, it's accurate powder. But you can do just as well if not better with more modern stuff. 4.9 - 5.8 WW-231 5.7 AA #2 8.0 AA #5 5.9 Unique 8.2 HS-6 4.7 TiteGroup 4.6 Bullseye 3.7-4.5 WST 6.4 WSF 8.0 Silhouette 9.9 Bluedot 3.9-4.9? E3 All of these are winners. But if you want the softest possible load, go with the last one. E3 is softer than anything.
  4. If you're not automating, this is the main reason to get a 1050. I've used almost every press there is and Every. Single. One. of them has either cumbersome or troublesome priming issues either from poor design or no pocket swaging. The 1050 suffers from neither of these problems.
  5. Used to use W231 (hate the way WST smells), now I use E3. Less smoke, a bit cleaner and soooooft.
  6. Second (fourth?) using a magnet during brass sorting. If you get a really strong one, keep it away from any electronics. I prefer this as it's not too strong, does double duty as a pin separator, hasn't rusted and stray filings are easy to remove: https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Transfer-Stainless-Reloading/dp/B00HTN659G
  7. Endless libraries worth of material has been written about the arcane science of ballistics in the quest for accuracy. Long (so very, very long) story short, use the load that works best for your gun. Slightly longer version, for your particular question, the most likely answer is the pressure over time curves are different.
  8. Spray One Shot into the empty case feeder and right down the case drop tube before each loading. A little more One Shot on the inside of my wrists and a dab behind each ear.
  9. Technically, yes. But you'd need some very sensitive equipment to measure it. If you're not getting any flame-cutting on the blast shield then there's not enough force to really matter.
  10. I posted a review here on the DVC when the demo models were first shown at nationals. I said it was overpriced crap hyped as the new hotness. Even if you forget all the other things that were bad about it, the trigger was garbage. A garbage trigger on a several thousand dollar competition gun is inexcusable. I was ignored because it was the new hotness. Later I lamented that the Trubor was going away, probably to get more people to buy their overpriced crap DVC. I think they failed big time with that decision too. I'm betting a lot of the entry-level business either went to CK, SPS or the used market. Oh well. I hope they learn something and get back to what worked. I love my Grandmaster.
  11. I dealt with many dropped 1911's during my time as a military rangemaster, none ever "just went off". CAN it happen? Sure. It happened in testing under very narrow circumstances. Figure the odds. I've never heard of a 1911 drop firing happening in the field where the hammer didn't fall. You might have a better chance of getting struck by lightning while being bitten by a cobra than dropping your 1911 and having it go bang because of a lack of a firing pin block. Can I get a 1911 trigger down to two pounds with Series 80 guts in it? Sure. But I charge almost double to do it because it's unnecessary work. I always advise to ditch that garbage, especially in carry guns as it means fewer possible failure points.
  12. I'm a 1911 fanboy but I'm here to tell you that anyone who thinks a 1911 is as reliable as a Glock is smoking illegal substances. If I had to rely on Glock repairs or tuning in my shop, I'd starve. They're ugly, the trigger will never get anywhere near as good as even a crappy 1911 and the grip angle is just... wrong. But the stupid things just work and keep right on working.
  13. The 1911 firing pin spring has a very easy job and, unless you're a dry-firing fiend or firing lots of hot ammo, you'll likely wear out your gun before the spring has an issue. And I've seen exactly one broken fp spring in way too many years of working on 1911's. Shorter barreled guns have more issues because of higher slide velocity and should replace the fp spring every so often. As to the mainspring, those really aren't an issue either unless you're running a lighter than stock spring to get a super light trigger. In that case, any weakening could result in problems and should be replaced every so often - the lighter your mainspring, the more often you should replace. Even with a stupidly light spring, you're talking in the 10k+ round range. A stock spring will last 40k+ easily with standard ammo. Side note: if you drop mainspring weight, you may need to go up in recoil spring weight as the mainspring helps control slide velocity. Recoil springs however are definitely a wear item and should be replaced on schedule. What schedule you ask? Well, it depends. There are too many variables to give a specific number or even number range. It depends on many, many things (quality, length, progressive or not, material, shape, slide length and weight, ammo power factor, etc.) but the two biggest things are round count and how finicky your gun is. You can either replace on a round count schedule, replace when the gun acts up, buy a recoil spring tester or measure the length of the spring the first time you clean your gun after firing, then replace when the spring measures noticeably shorter.
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