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Absocold

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About Absocold

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    Calls Shots

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  • Location
    Jacksonville, FL
  • Real Name
    Daniel Mann

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  1. Any good CLP applied to a decently cleaned gun will continue to clean the guns microscopic pores while it's sitting in the safe better than any ultrasonic can dream of. Try it. Scrub your gun like a dirty dirty child until it's pristine enough to attend sunday school, apply CLP, wait a week, run a clean white cloth over it and be amazed at the dirt that wipes off. I chuck a lot of my stripped guns in the dishwasher. Leave the heated drying cycle off. Works like magic. Would not recommend for finely blued pieces but for stainless/chrome/plastic/DVC/Etc. it's easy peasy lemon squeezy
  2. Even very expensive factory guns can have problems. Buy the cheapest one that you like the looks of then pay a pro to upgrade and massage it. You'll spend as much or less than a fancy mass produced item and get much better results.
  3. Shotguns I use bear fat. Pistols I use goose poo. AR15's get the finest and most expensive space-age lubricant that science can produce, it even works sometimes. AK's that start to run a little slower than normal I just swish around in a mud puddle.
  4. Krylon Engine Paint for a gun you don't care about much. It's cheap. Virtually immune to oil, grease and high temps. Cheap too. Comes in lots of pretty colors. Also it's cheap. Easy to re-apply as necessary. And it's cheap. Duracoat for a gun you sorta like. Harder and will wear better but is more trouble to apply correctly and touch up. Parkerizing for a gun you like. Cheap and tougher than any spray coating. If you love the gun then there are a dozen other finishes with price tags to match.
  5. Parts don't matter so much. You can get a 2lb 1911/2011 trigger with anything as long as the starting dimensions and angles are on point. Whatever the gun came with is often good enough. However some companies make better stuff than others and I'll occasionally find parts that are out of spec and simply can't be fixed. I've had the best luck with newer EGW, Wilson stuff made in the 90's and USGI surplus parts 70ish years old. Avoid Metal Injection Molded (MIM) parts at all costs. If you're just going to drop them in and go and don't require ultimate reliability they're fine. But MI
  6. National Match pistol bullseye goes out to 50 yards. On a 9mm it's no biggie but on .45ACP, it matters.
  7. Use a very light coat of spray silicone lube on the moving/rubbing parts of the case feeder, reapply every 2-3 hundred rounds. Use a thin film of grease on the ramp that pushes the shell plate indexing pawl out. Don't let the ram get too full of spent primers or you'll have a hell of a time getting them out. Get the Lee Auto Drum, put one on every press you own no matter the brand - you'll spend way, way more to get anything better and it'll take up more space. Either properly ground the press or buy some anti-static spray or wipe everything down
  8. There are 3 types of sailboat captains. Those who have run aground, those that haven't yet and liars. Lead keels have antimony in them otherwise they'd bend whenever you touched bottom. And sooner or later you'll either smack something with your keel or a low tide plus waves will reduce your draft to zero and you'll be banging into the bottom or resting on it. Some lead from encapsulated keels (iron keel with lead core) and some lead ballast ingots are softer but the pure lead keels are pretty hard. Like I said before, the one I cut up (yes, a chainsaw works surprisingly well) was
  9. I finally ran out of the wheel weights I got for free just by asking at mechanic shops 20 years ago. Now they all say they are contracted to scrap dealers and can't even sell them to me any more when they used to just dump them in the trash (or give them to people like me). Hardly matters, most wheel weights are steel or zinc nowadays. Tried all sorts of other places for lead, you've prolly heard of most of them, those are drying up too. So, what's the answer? SAILBOATS. Buy scrap sailboats for pennies, often they're free if you agree to remove it. The keel is solid lead on many of
  10. Bullseye is acceptably clean at higher pressure but when you try to load softer it's downright filthy. It's a very old formulation and the only reason to use it anymore is that it's cheap, easy to find, meters well enough and is very accurate for certain loadings. I used a metric assload of it back in the day for .45acp match ammo, but here in the 21st century there are better powders.
  11. This. The only thing I'd add to Lee dies is Squirrel Daddy de-priming pins as the Lee pins are too soft. Dillon dies are fine as well. Don't care for Hornady or RCBS. If you're playing the precision rifle game then Redding competition seating dies are nice.
  12. Another vote for Frankford. It's small, it's cheap, it's cheap looking, cheap feeling and makes you feel like a cheap person. But it works just fine. I verified it against a beam scale and it's very accurate. Unless you're wanting to measure out to hundredths of a grain for some reason, it's perfectly fine.
  13. I reached a point where the gun was flatter on video but the shot was so violent that it took me longer to return to a steady sight picture. Backed off the power and am happier and faster.
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