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Absocold

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About Absocold

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    Calls Shots

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    Jacksonville, FL
  • Real Name
    Daniel Mann

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  1. You guys are necro-posting in a three and a half year old thread. The girl is almost done with college by now lol. Prolly time to close it up.
  2. I'm confuzzled. The comp cracked but instead of a new barrel/comp they're replacing the entire slide assembly, frame and controls as well? Okaaaaay....
  3. I could give two sh*ts about whether or not you use motor oil as long as you're informed of the hazards. Accusing me of spreading misinformation is silly when the MSDS says right on it "avoid contact with spilled material", if you touch it to "wash hands with soap and water", if you get any in you "the individual should be evaluated immediately by a physician as a surgical emergency" and not to use the stuff for anything other than the intended purpose. Then I pass that info along to my friends here and let them decide whether these things sound rosy and fun but get attacked for it. We deal with enough health hazards in this sport and I don't know about you but I'd prefer to limit my potential exposures. But if you think motor oil is great, knock yourself out, no one's crying about it and I won't attack you for it.
  4. Put the tinfoil hat down and back away slowly. I've asked more than a few BATF agents about this (and other things that come up) over the last three decades. All said basically the same thing. If you're not hooting and hollering and bragging up your awesome muti-shot per trigger pull gun, no one cares; malfunctioning gun does not equal machinegun. One said it best: "If that was an issue then all rimfire autoloaders would be banned because of the occasional slamfire." You'd be shocked at just how crazy you have to get to have them after you. Yeah, we've all heard stories but those are crazy rare considering there's this whole branch of government dedicated to policing firearms and a nation full of firearms owners. I've called them more than a few times on questionable guns that came into my possession, only once did they care enough to send someone out. It was a true Saturday Night Special with no manufacturer and no serial number. He found a tiny proof stamp and said that was good enough to the letter of the law as an "identifying mark" for a gun of unknown age. As to all the obviously illegal guns that I absolutely never saw, the clueless owners were educated on exactly what sort of trouble they could bring. All were smart enough not to even risk the walk back to the car with them and they paid a very small fee to someone (absolutely not me) to de-mill them. I may or may not have a 20mm ammo can nearly full of torched up scrap metal, but at least it's not illegal metal.
  5. Necroposting in an old thread but others may use the search function and find this so... I've had a few of these come through for work. One was picky about magazines and needed some tuning, another was only in for a trigger job and accurizing. Some areas are better finished than you'd expect, other areas less so. Triggers are stupidly heavy, 7.5-8.5 pounds. Once you throw away the lawyer-inspired series 80 crap and polish the internals a bit, the trigger isn't bad. For the price, they're not terrible. But for a tiny bit more money you can get more gun. Think Rock Island Armory's cheaper options. Or just bite the bullet and pay what most would consider to actually be the cheap end of 1911's that are worth buying and spend $700-850. The only reason to buy anything cheaper is because you either simply have no more money or you plan on customizing the crap out of it and half the parts are going in the garbage anyway. Or be smart and cruise your local shops and the forums here for a gently used Range Officer, SR1911 or the like. Those are currently in the $700-850 range when new and you'll be happier with a used one of those than a new Tisas.
  6. Absocold

    Fun with guns

    Grats me on 500th post. .
  7. The hood's function is to align the the slide recesses with the barrels upper lugs. If the hood is too long the barrel can't engage the slide and if the hood is too short it will make for a rough engagement which can lead to poor accuracy and lug peening. I won't bother getting into proper dimensions and clearances. That's a long discussion for another day. If accuracy is fine, shoot it. But keep checking the lugs for damage on a regular basis. If you never get any, great. If you start to see some...
  8. See the flat T-shaped area with no blueing on it? Polish that without rounding any edges. A dozen or so passes on a flat Arkansas stone will clean it right up. If that area on yours is blued, knock the blueing off with an India stone and then polish it. Next: Check the disconnector for burrs. Check the disconnector hole in the top of the frame for burrs. Check the areas of the sear that touch the disconnector for burrs. Make sure the disconnector is protruding above the frame by at least .055". Look into the magazine well with a strong light and make sure the disconnector is not sticking out and bumping on an inserted magazine, I've seen a couple poorly made disconnectors that needed some radiusing around the square area to stop this. There's more but let's move on for now. Now that all that's out of the way, we can address the real problem since the disconnector is usually not the cause of a runaway gun. It's almost always either a poorly tuned sear spring and/or a bad/worn trigger job where you don't have enough engagement surface and/or engagement tension between the sear and the hammer hooks. When the gun goes into battery the sudden stop jars the gun and the hammer jumps off the sear and abracadabra the rangemaster hates you. Protip: buy yourself a set of outside pins, they are cheap and will constantly come in handy for many things such as this.
  9. nm, new info was posted while I was typing.
  10. You're thinking of normal government procurement practices and the all-too-often "lowest bidder" boondoggles that come of it. When it comes to gun oil, the military doesn't scrimp. The latest testing competition notice from the proving grounds makes zero mention of price or any sort of cost analysis, they simply wanted the best CLP available. They also didn't specify any minimum performance, they said they were going to conduct testing to see if there was anything that worked better than what they already had. Long story short, they didn't find anything new that was better than what they were already using. They did find a new dry film lubricant that worked well in dry, dusty desert conditions and further development on this dry film *in combination with CLP* was in progress last I heard. There was news about this a couple years ago but nothing new has been published since then.
  11. Anyone using lube that was designed more than 25 years ago and not taking advantage of modern technology is a fool. May as well lube your junk with bear fat or goose grease. Old ways are best! Right? And anyone using the latest and greatest superlube to come down the pike is likewise doing themselves a disservice. Too many times we've later found out that the stuff is pure snake oil (*cough* fireclean froglube *cough*). If it's so awesome, why isn't the military buying it? Here's just a few of the things you want from a gun lube that I can think of off the top of my head: High lubricity. High temperature resistance. High flash point. Thermal stability. Low oxidation. Moisture barrier. High demulsibility or non-hygroscopic. Planar and non-polar. Thin film thickness. Low viscosity. High heat transfer. (greases are bad at the last three) And you want it to do all this even after it dries! And for those of you that think any sort of motor oil is a great idea, check its Material Safety Data Sheet. For example, Mobil 1's MSDS says don't get the stuff on you. Period. Full stop. Don't touch it. And if you get any inside your skin from a cut or something, seek a physician immediately for possible surgical treatment. But sure, slather it all over your gun. That you handle. With your bare hands. Brilliant. Now maybe you start to understand why I just go with whatever the military is using. They've spent millions of dollars testing gun lubes from tons of companies that have spent a lot of of money designing gun lubes and then picked out some winners. Many of the lubes they use do all of the above and also have detergents built in so you don't need a separate solvent for cleaning. Take full advantage of all that time, effort and money spent. I don't care which one you use, but I highly advise that you use one of them.
  12. The flammable material in primers is hygroscopic - it attracts moisture. When slightly damp it works poorly, when wet it doesn't work at all. This is why it's advised to store them in a cool, dry place. In cases of long term storage you can inspect the primers for corrosion, and if none is found, then they are most likely just fine. The cup and anvil are almost always slightly different materials and long term moisture exposure will cause corrosion. Next time, throw them into a steel ammo can, put some fresh silicone on the lid o-ring, toss a desiccant pack in there, lock it down, put a tamper seal on it, store in a cool dry place. No more worries, they will last until the eventual heat death of the universe. Just don't store them in your gun safe, that's a big no-no, you just made a bomb.
  13. Flattening doesn't bother me. But when I see cratering I switch to rifle primers.
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