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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Jacksonville, FL
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    Daniel Mann

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  1. ^This. If no, try some factory rounds and see if they tumble. When all else fails, I use a lathe to turn down a piece of balsa wood so it almost fits down the bore. Dust it with graphite powder (liquid lube will make it swell up) and tap tap tap from the breech end until it starts coming out through the comp, watch for shaving.
  2. Rifling looks ok from what I can see but it looks to be coppered up with some leading. Herter's makes ammo with nylon bullets, fling half a dozen through to clean it out. If you can't lay your hands on any then get a de-coppering solvent and a stiff brush and give it the Tony Danza (WHO'S THE BOSS?) then if it continues to have leading issues I'd slug it to make sure you're using the correct bullet diameter and, if you are, I'd lap the barrel to remove whatever is dragging at the bullets.
  3. For the price, hey, look at me, FOR THE PRICE, the Loadmaster is a good press. For small runs it's outstanding since a full caliber changeover, including primer size change, takes about two minutes and the parts for each conversion cost almost nothing. Shockingly it makes pretty decent ammo. But then, a day will come that you either get sick of fiddling with it or you will witness a 750/1050 just flat work and work and work with no fiddling and you'll realize it's worth missing some meals so you can afford quality gear. I have two of them but they are my least favorite press to use. One is on permanent de-priming duty and the other is for loading small batches. I wish I could justify replacing them with better stuff and give them to someone who already dislikes me so I don't lose a friend. Someone once gave me a Lock n Load Ammo Plant. We no longer speak.
  4. Any good CLP applied to a decently cleaned gun will continue to clean the guns microscopic pores while it's sitting in the safe better than any ultrasonic can dream of. Try it. Scrub your gun like a dirty dirty child until it's pristine enough to attend sunday school, apply CLP, wait a week, run a clean white cloth over it and be amazed at the dirt that wipes off. I chuck a lot of my stripped guns in the dishwasher. Leave the heated drying cycle off. Works like magic. Would not recommend for finely blued pieces but for stainless/chrome/plastic/DVC/Etc. it's easy peasy lemon squeezy. Having to rough clean then ultrasonic then clean the solution off (plus worries of finish damage), not to mention the extra cost for the ultrasonic cleaner and solution sounds like difficult difficult lemon difficult.
  5. Even very expensive factory guns can have problems. Buy the cheapest one that you like the looks of then pay a pro to upgrade and massage it. You'll spend as much or less than a fancy mass produced item and get much better results.
  6. Shotguns I use bear fat. Pistols I use goose poo. AR15's get the finest and most expensive space-age lubricant that science can produce, it even works sometimes. AK's that start to run a little slower than normal I just swish around in a mud puddle.
  7. Krylon Engine Paint for a gun you don't care about much. It's cheap. Virtually immune to oil, grease and high temps. Cheap too. Comes in lots of pretty colors. Also it's cheap. Easy to re-apply as necessary. And it's cheap. Duracoat for a gun you sorta like. Harder and will wear better but is more trouble to apply correctly and touch up. Parkerizing for a gun you like. Cheap and tougher than any spray coating. If you love the gun then there are a dozen other finishes with price tags to match.
  8. Parts don't matter so much. You can get a 2lb 1911/2011 trigger with anything as long as the starting dimensions and angles are on point. Whatever the gun came with is often good enough. However some companies make better stuff than others and I'll occasionally find parts that are out of spec and simply can't be fixed. I've had the best luck with newer EGW, Wilson stuff made in the 90's and USGI surplus parts 70ish years old. Avoid Metal Injection Molded (MIM) parts at all costs. If you're just going to drop them in and go and don't require ultimate reliability they're fine. But MIM parts are case hardened and can't be worked hard for a trigger job without re-hardening and then lightly polishing the final result. Not worth the time and effort unless there's no alternative available.
  9. National Match pistol bullseye goes out to 50 yards. On a 9mm it's no biggie but on .45ACP, it matters.
  10. Use a very light coat of spray silicone lube on the moving/rubbing parts of the case feeder, reapply every 2-3 hundred rounds. Use a thin film of grease on the ramp that pushes the shell plate indexing pawl out. Don't let the ram get too full of spent primers or you'll have a hell of a time getting them out. Get the Lee Auto Drum, put one on every press you own no matter the brand - you'll spend way, way more to get anything better and it'll take up more space. Either properly ground the press or buy some anti-static spray or wipe everything down with dryer sheets or whatever, just watch for static issues. There are many types of metals and plastics all rubbing against each other, don't get laughed at by the fire department because of an errant spark or damage you or your gun because of powder bridging. This goes for all presses. Use the skinny end of a small safety pin to hold the primers back in the flip tray as you're inserting it into the primer feed chute or they'll get all caddy wumpuss. Use Squirrel Daddy pins in your depriming die or keep buying Lee pins over and over and over as you bend them. Put a Lee Universal decapping die in station 1 even if you're not depriming as the large mouth will help position cases properly onto the shell plate. Put a sizing die at station 2 even if you don't need to size to keep cases properly centered during priming. Don't spend too much money getting fancy upgrades and aftermarket options. You'll need that money for the Dillon or Mark7 you'll eventually buy. Yes, a Daisy pellet gun is fine and the tin can can't tell it wasn't an Olympic match grade air rifle that shot it, but quality equipment that just plain works is a joy to use and own, eventually you'll treat yourself and buy better gear. I still have a Loadmaster, it's awesome for small batch loading. Everyone should have one if they load more than a couple calibers. Full changeover between calibers and primer sizes takes 5 minutes, a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. Want to add a caliber? No problem, it'll cost you dies, a $14 turret and a $23 shell plate. In your FACE, Dillon!
  11. There are 3 types of sailboat captains. Those who have run aground, those that haven't yet and liars. Lead keels have antimony in them otherwise they'd bend whenever you touched bottom. And sooner or later you'll either smack something with your keel or a low tide plus waves will reduce your draft to zero and you'll be banging into the bottom or resting on it. Some lead from encapsulated keels (iron keel with lead core) and some lead ballast ingots are softer but the pure lead keels are pretty hard. Like I said before, the one I cut up (yes, a chainsaw works surprisingly well) was almost hardball spec and a quench brought it close enough.
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