RPatton

This is what happens to the end user when competition is eliminated. I too will miss PB, 4756, and 7625.

Maybe the dust depends on the walnut but I had a LOT of dust and always stood to the side to let the wind take the dust somewhere other than in my face during media / brass separation. I tried the NuFinish and mineral spirits trick. It eliminated all the dust and it polishes better and faster. If brass is really bad and you want to make polishing faster then the warm citric acid bath is the trick. I'm not so sure about the theory of the acid bath creating a passive layer, as mentioned in the forum, that keeps the brass from tarnishing longer during storage. As I remember it, an acid solution will remove or make porous the passive layer which is the tarnish on brass thus allowing oxygen to get to the base metal resulting in more and faster corrosion. At least that is what happens to the stainless steel in a Pressurized Water Reactor even when the dissolved oxygen level is less that 1 PPB. Maintaining the proper PH to inhibit corrosion in a PWR a much bigger deal than tarnish on your brass.

Yes they are but the price of ALL scrap is down......a lot, the Chinese economy is down so they aren't buying everything like they had been.

I've loaded some where the head stamp is pretty much gone and unreadable. If it does not ring (old maid) I will reload them until I either lose or it will not hold the primers anymore. I have had some drop the primers out when they drop into the plastic bin on my 650. No good fix for that. Jay +1 The only other type of "bad Brass" I've seen was some 30.06 and 270 that was loaded back in the late '70s with the original H4831 that was surplus powder at the end of WW2. Some cases had blue corrosion spots on them where they had corroded through from the inside. The primers would work, the bottoms of the bullets were corroded, and the powder would burn but was hard to ignite. When pulling the bullets some of the necks came off with the bullet still installed. Brass went in the scrap. Primers got used to make wax bullets for the 45 Colt.

Sounds like the hogs record is about as good as the average weatherman, I'm sorry, I meant meteorologist, was pre satellite.

I have used both. Both work. Wet is more work. No dust using dry if done right. Been reloading since 1967 and I have never de-primed pistol brass. 223 gets de-primed first only to separate the once fired, crimped brass from the un-crimped brass so I can use the once fired military for match brass. If it isn't 223 it doesn't get de-primed before polishing. Primer pockets have never been a problem. If I was a benchrest shooter I would probably have a different opinion about primer pockets because I would be anal about everything involved in benchrest. LOL.

Easier still to NOT remove anything and just pull the Primer Indexing Arm as far as it will go then drop something in the next hole on the Rotary Disk to keep the Arm from returning and the disk will no longer rotate.

If I get through 1000 rounds without any kind of malf, I'll pop the champagne! I'm already relieved to have gotten through 500.....that's how much faith I have in the bloody thing... 500 rounds is a good start. Don't change anything and keep pulling the trigger. You may be surprised.

If you carry spare parts to big matches a spare AFTEC and firing pin stop can be handy to have. Pre-fit, tried and tested of course.........just in case things go horribly awry. If you can go through 1000 rounds of that ammo without changing anything and with NO maintenance and no malfunctions, then you should have enough confidence in your pistol to know that if it then jams or FTF, something may be amiss.

My Lyman 525s are downloaded and running about 1100FPS from a 21" Benelli and a Light Mod choke. One thing that seems to improve accuracy is filling the base with hot glue and then cutting it off so the base is flat. Adds more to the process but seems to pay off downrange. One stage at the last Remington VersaMax Challenge match had a stage with 15 buckshot followed by 15 slug shots which ran from about 60 out to about 110 yards (I think) and after running about 30/40 yards I still managed to go one for one on the slugs. I'm sure no luck was involved. LOL

The only thing you may really "need" is a set of sights installed and a lot of ammo.

If it was "anywhere, anyhow" then Bill Jordan's #1 rule in a gunfight should apply i.e., "The fastest draw in a gunfight is to already have your gun in your hand when the hostilities start." (Bill Jordan "No Second Place Winner")

I tried it about a year ago, and rested the gun, the mag base and me on the table/bag - it worked just fine. You can shoot groups from a bag but you may not want to zero your gun from a bag because you MAY NOT have the same zero when off the bag.

If you are shooting plated bullets the first thing I would do is pull a loaded bullet and if you can see a mark on it from the mouth of the case then load some with no mark and see what happens.

Costomize them so they are as accurate as possible and have a 100% feed rate with your competition style but I'm not sure what that means.

The ringing in my ears from a misspent youth shooting without earplugs and some Dr. Hook

Cutting coils may not affect the weight but it will affect the force with which the hammer hits the firing pin. Cut off enough and it won't fire.

Rule #1 : Always destroy (modify) the cheapest part first. Removing metal from the ejector is easily done. SVI may be okay with the bullets hitting the ejector but hitting the ejector repeatedly when you jam in a fully loaded mag during a reload it just doesn't seem like a good idea to me. Modifying the ejector is the one fix that doesn't change anything about the way the gun feeds. Modifying the mag release or the mags will have the potential to do that.

Yup. If your mags are working, take a little material from the underside of the ejector. +1 been there, done that....more than once.

I was convinced about Gibbs Oil when my son rebuilt / customized an old Honda 550. He wanted a different look so he didn't want to paint the tank. By the time he would get the second side buffed off the first side would be rusty. He rubbed it down with Gibbs and it's been over 2 years and the tank doesn't rust. That sold me but I still wipe down my guns.....just in case. He ordered it on line. I had never heard of it until then.

I you want to start with only 1 round in a shotgun with a 13 round tube when you could have started with 9 then go for it. Nobody will care but they will laugh.

I've never tried loading while standing on a stool! LOL but my brother is a pharmacist so I understand. My 'loading 'bench' is a table that was scraped when we remodeled the control room at the nuclear power plant where I worked. It was big, HEAVY(seismically qualified as all loading benches should be), and inexpensive. At table height I use no strong mount and sit on an old control room chair. And no it doesn't glow in the dark.

I would start somewhere other than with the guy who put it together.......for a second opinion.

To stop the primer feed I was using a Hornady .224 75grain BTHP bullet and just dropping it in the primer feed disk. I finally went to a piece of brass rod that I turned down on one end to fit the hole. Easily installed and removed.

I can't recall ever seeing a factory open ended mainspring.