Real-Tech

"tru glow", and "glow on" its all nonsense. you still have leave your gun out somewhere in the light to recharge the paint where your kids can get to it which is still a real dumb idea. Now i would like to able to to apply my own tritium paint to my sights so i can grab it from a case a 3 oclock in the mourning and see nice bright three dots lined up in front of me. Anyone know how to get this paint.

Wholy cow this stuff burns clean, seen someone using this Magtech clean range yesterday and everone was picking up this guys brass saying damn look at this brass, dont even need to run this through a tumbler. Yep I never seen anything so clean after being fired, still mirror clean. Any one know what the powder mixture might be, I want to try some reloads with this mix.

close, probably one of their variants under a different name but im looking for the direct manufacture because there is a heavy duty version of the "Dynaglide plus" that is specific for IPSC and has the 9 layers of protection. This stuff from Hornady is the best Ive used for the reloading press and keeping the ammo coated at the range, doesnt foul the barrel or collect dirt like all the gun oils do.

Trying to find a distributor or better, the manufacturer for the Dyna glide lube used in Hornady's one shot gun cleaner since they dont even make the stuff. The web site for Dynaglide has no contact info.

this of course would be for rounds under long term storage, you know the days when you might need them for a massive zombie attack

I finally figured out that colored ring around the primer pocket from high quality ammo manufactures is a sealant. Now I have to do this to my stuff, gives it that cool factor besides keeping the moisture out. So who makes the best stuff and how do I apply it. Midway only has one, Markron that everyone seams to like, but does it leave a nice color that can be seen after it dries.

My fingers have got blisters from holding the cases while cleaning out the primer pockets then flipping them over to clean out the flash hole. Even though Im using a drill to spin the bits in order to do this as fast as possible , after 600 rounds Im looking for some other way to hold the 9mm luger cases with other means rather than my fingers. I have a Hornady case prep center coming but I wont have any better way to hold the cases. There's got to be some type of tool that can hold cases while you work on both ends

I would try once fired brass if that's what it really was, I'm afraid I wont be able to see a split case as it goes through my press.

My FFL distributor can't find a wholesaler who has (good quality) 9MM Luger brass and primers. If they do have it they want retail prices. I'm new to the reloading scene and have all my supplies lined up for purchase including a new progressive press, dies, bullets, powder, but it doesn't make sense for me to buy all this stuff if I cant get brass and primers. where can I get new, I need enough for 10,000 rounds. Don't recommend web sites that are OUT OF STOCK please.

I read a review that the Lortone 12 lb rock tumbler is better and [quieter] for cleaning brass than any case tumbler you can get from the major well known press manufactures. I don't think this thing vibrates so I wonder how long it takes to clean brass. Anyone use this rubber drum machine.

As far as deluding or dumbing down the sport, think how many ipsc/idpa guys are really good because they practice with co2 airsoft toys in their garage shooting smaller swing plates that react the same way as the "real world" targets. Oops everyone is a real world big man out on the range but home in their garage plinking with plastic is (better) than dry fire and the weight of these metal airsoft guns is very close to the real thing. Now take that into the .22 arena, Dads can take their teenagers to start there. Best memories are shooting with DaD as a kid, 'you know it' hmmmm tears flowing yet, how good would they be doing this together at an early age.

Holy smokes the help on this site is fantastic. Ok I just finished Brian's Competition reloading CD and from what Ive learned, the idea is to choose a powder that finishes burning at the end of the barrel not half way down building up pressure too fast, [five inch my case], but builds up enough pressure to seal the case against inside of the barrel. So from what Ive read from you guys N320 is a more favorable burn rate for 9mm 147gr. I hate dirt in my guns after all the work thats been done to them so thats why I keep trying to find the cleanest burning powder. V and V also has a cowboy action powder they claim is very clean burning N32C which is about the same burn rate. Anybody use this in their Auto.

Guys I need some help here. I really like the sport of IDPA and have gotten two new guns so me and my son can enjoy the sport together, but trying to figure out where the savings come in by reloading is questionable. After shooting a few boxes of dirty retail Remington ammo through my guns, Ive decided to dive into the reloading game. Since this is all about running clean burning accurate ammo through our fine tuned polished race guns, I figured only the best will do, so here's a cost calculation done with the calculator on Handloads.com, all prices are from Midwayusa for a 9mm luger 147gr [ one pound N350 v and v powder $31.0] powder charge 4.5gr [ 1000 federal match primers $37.0] [1000 Remington new brass cases $172.0, I wont be using old stuff] [1000 Remington match bullets $147.0] then hit the calculate button and you get .376 cents per round or $376 per 1000 rounds. That's exactly what it cost me for Winchester Win clean lead free ammo over the counter. I haven't mentioned the shipping cost to transport all that heavy lead to do it your self, and on top of all that the price of a Reloading press , so if there is real savings here somewhere, tell me how to do it, wholesale or what ever. I mean the whole thing about reloading is paying less and putting something through your gun you can't get across the counter right.