MemphisMechanic

Interesting. What PF do you load to? I never softened my loads for my PCC, so they go 133 through a 5” Walther or 140-143ish though a 14” PCC. I tuned the top ports in my comp to run on the amount of gas my Production 125gr ammo produces, so lighter loads mean more dot bounce for me. Was your gun ported or comped at 5” like this one is... or was it the conventional ULW taccom setup?

@CHA-LEE discussed on page 2:

I doubt you do enough brass prep for it to matter... but there is a company out there with a very popular motor upgrade for the Dillon casefeeder that *honestly* increases output by more than double. You probably already know this, but it’s an option.

Beautifully done. I’d love to shoot something with a comp or popple holes that close to the chamber; that’s the only thing I would change if modifying my current gun’s setup... which is a similar hodgepodge of high end parts.

My gun is as light up front as it’s possible to be with 14” of barrel. Turned a CMMG barrel down to .625” and running the 4.6oz Brigand Arms handguard... but I made no attempt to lighten anything else. It’s 6lb 0.5oz that balances at the magazine release. I really like this setup; very controllable when switching shoulders or reloading, and it swings very fast. But it still weighs enough that recoil is hilariously soft.

Wace springs come in 5 packs, so you have spares... and they’re easy to shorten. Try cutting one “turn” off the spring. I did that, and it made it possible for my franken-guard to lock back manually if driven backward hard, but more importantly tripping the bolt release now requires a normal amount of force. No GI Joe Kung-Fu grip. Gun still recoiled exactly the same.

Do you shoot with the gun tucked into your shoulder pocket and your body slightly bladed? Or is your chest square to the target with the rifle closer to centerline? As a rifle recoils it pushes against whatever is behind it. If your stance isn’t very low and forward? Any little bit the rifle can push you back will be seen as a slight rotation of your shoulder, too. It doesn’t take much for that to move the dot a little bit. If it’s hitting the buffer tube harder, it might be affecting your stance a little more. Play with your stance and how you grip and drive the rifle, not just with the buffer and spring. There is more movement in this string than there should be, because I didn’t have the stock clamped tightly between the shoulder and support hand. When I do that it doesn’t move AT ALL, but even here it looks pretty flat, you can just see it bouncing back slightly in recoil:

You’re right. However, my point stands. Solo 1000 was faster than Titegroup, yet you do need a little bit more of it. By charge weight.

The density of the two powders can certainly be independent of their burn rate. That’s a good rule of thumb, but it’s hardly definitive. As an example from my own chrono data? 3.2 grains of titegroup = 130 PF 3.45 gr of the old Solo1000 = same PF Solo is faster and softer than titegroup.

No. In the video, John moved to his right. He stepped out of bounds and pushed off with the left. To drive hard to your left you would do the opposite; set up in a wide stance with lots of bend in the knees and then push off with your right leg.

If you don’t feel a burn in your thighs from the squat, you can likely be lower. And should. If you’re comfortable, you’re standing tall. Standing up tall is bad in any explosive-movement sport. Confused on your “toward movement leg” thing... In the video example, you’ll always be trying to get your center of gravity far enough to the right so that your left leg can drive you. Just like a sprinter leaving the starting blocks. That cannot happen if your center of gravity isn’t low and well inside of the driving leg. (Sprinters get low, they don’t stand up in the blocks.) Sometimes you can begin to fall in the desired direction of travel. Sometimes you can stand deep and wide and push off hard without moving your feet. Sometimes you need to dropstep - usually where a fault like prohibits a wide stance while shooting. Focus on actually feeling how much pressure your index finger’s pad is applying to the trigger shoe. After getting the front sight into focus, move your mental attention there. This will stop you from doing the “prep and slap” thing that’s common under time pressure.

You don’t push the spring up into the magazine. Disengage whatever setscrew or pin locks the the basepad on, and simply slide it off. One of the “V”s in the magazine spring will find it’s way into the pinch point between the front of the mag tube and the basepad, and it will come off. Just try to slide it off, and you’ll see what I mean. You won’t hurt the spring even though it seems like you’ll be trying to shear it in half. You push the spring all the way up into the tube to slide the extension on, but that isn’t how they come off.

Are you standing up tall when you fire that shot, feet barely more than shoulder width? You either need to be standing so that you’re prepped to exit (wiiiide stance, legs bent in a squat, shoulders shifted atop the leg that’s in direction of expected travel) or you need to make a drop-step a natural occurence. Drop step: Halfway through a stage, when you’re leaning hard around the LEFT side of a wall and you need to move to the right next? Throw a foot out of bounds and push off with it, instead of slowwwwwwly trying to fall into movement away from your current lean. Example: John does a pretty obvious one at the front left position:

When was the last tome you honestly practiced easy exits and hard exits in live fire, and not in a match? Be honest... although we probably already know the answer.

That’s a good starting point.

I’ll be curious to see how she runs. How far back will the bolt travel right now? Can you lock the bolt back?

Cut a bristle off of a cheap plastic broom and use it as “fiber optic” in your sight for a match or two.

Are you left or right handed?

With the way you and your gun were fighting each other, it’s not like things would have gone well even if you had known they were non-disappearing. Are you new to shooting this gun with this setup? Why the grip / feeding issues? The answer to your question is to look at time and points from the guys in your class whose guns worked, and check the HF adding a mike. Then delete that mike, and try adding 5 seconds. I’d be shocked if it were worth running up to the tiny box.

A safe place to start with your stack is to barely be able to manually lock the bolt back.

Brake cleaner is 80-90% acetone. A gallon of acetone from your local big box hardware store’s paint section is under $20. I do a 1-hour soak on anything I want to cerakote, per their instructions. It’s incredibly helpful if you want a *truly* clean firearm. Take a funnel and tuck a coffee filter into it, then pour the acetone back into the gallon container when you’re finished.

It’ll make plinking ammo that runs just like factory stuff, just fine. It just won’t recoil quite as softly as faster powders might. No big deal, it’ll be fine to practice with. If you’re loading coated bullets, it could leave your gun dirtier than you might like, but won’t physically hurt anything. Load to the minimum charge weight if you’re shooting lead or coated bullets: they run considerably faster than jacketed ammo will.

You just have to follow him on instagram

Interesting how experiences differ! We have a thread full of people whose RTS2 and their backup RTS2 are both in for service, and then guys like you who find them perfectly reliable.

@B_RAD when do you ever? Dude just buys gun after gun, I swear... My PPQ slide shipped out to the machinist this afternoon. If he comes through, I may have a place which can do some VERY practical FCS’s. The kind which also strip enough weight that adding the weight of the dot won’t slow the slide down. We’ll see!