MemphisMechanic

Try putting a piece of scotch tape or rubbing a little chap stick on the left lens of your shooting glasses. Enough to slightly blur the lens but you won't be missing your peripheral vision to that side, and see how you like it.

I think one of the biggest differences between a C shooter and an A is visual patience. The difference in times between shooting an array when your sights say "A zone hit," and just pulling the trigger fast while trying to muscle them somewhere near center of brown, is only a few tenths. There's no legitimate reason to shoot without an acceptable sight picture, yet we are all guilty of doing it often. A speed focus is your greatest enemy when it comes to being able to actually shoot fast.

Pay attention to something next time on your draw: when you are being deliberate with your trigger on a tight target... do your hands move slower through the entire drawstroke than if you have a 2 yard wide open "hose 'em down" first shot? Most people do. Their entire draw to a 25yd target occurs with slower hands than when it's time to rip it and hose. Think about that. And try to whip the gun out as fast on a 25yd partial as you would right up front - get the gun in front of your eyes in .7 and then spend the extra .25 or whatever you personally need in your sights and trigger press. Regarding pushing shots low, spend your next live fire session with Ben Stoeger's version of the dot drill.

I like it. Perhaps someday I'll put a paster over the rear sight notch and give it a whirl.

Just give me fault lines... and delete the subjective "COVER!" calls from the sport entirely. Thanks, All the shooters who currently avoid IDPA.

That's... Freaking epic.

How is it going? Feel free to post your own experiences in this thread!

I plan to start by polishing the factory parts and see what a change that makes and to learn the internals. Then fit and install the new standard PD recipe (Titan/BOLO/sear/springs) unpolished and test the gun. Then polish all of that hardware and see how much the trigger drops, again.

Sorry, but it isn't. I won't dip below a 14lb hammer spring because I want the gun to eat the occasional slightly high CCI *Magnum* small pistol primer. I got a screaming deal on the mag primer, which is slightly harder than standard CCI, and a 5.5lb DA will be just fine by me. I like a gun that will eat anything. Absolutely anything. Even high and hard primers. So unless someone wants to lend me a 10/12 pound spring to test in the same gun, you'll see me with a 14lb spring when I test the finished gun.

Not politics. We just really like Wednesdays. I like when Wednesday's don't come with a 500% markup in reloading components.

Hah! Theres really no demonstrable need for a split faster than that to win a USPSA match, even at the top level. But a .12-.15 is what gets you laid.

Family wants to grab a big chunk of the parts for my birthday, for one. For two, no one has done it! Everyone just does all the parts and polishing at once. EDIT: Just retested the trigger. After a few hundred dryfires and 350 rounds, negligible affect on trigger pull. Averages exactly the same.

They're coming. Promise.

Nope. I'm going to weigh it at every step. Next comes the pull weights now that it has 350 down the pipe, and then after polishing.

Ghost rocket connector. Mirror-level polish job. 13lb ISMI spring on the factory guide rod. Dawson, Warren, or Sevigny sights. Grip tape or similar traction aid. Done.

I thought it could be interesting to document my journey from plastic gun shooter over to the Tanfoglio Stock 3. I would have loved to find something like this when considering the switch. After some admittedly sporadic dryfire, a Dawson front sight, and silicon carbide treatment on the grips, it was time to take the 10.5/5.0 lb trigger to the range. Despite the flared magwell on the bottom of the gun, this is a hard gun to reload. The mag opening is larger, but so is the magazine. The G34 I shot from 2006-09 and the M&P from 2009-16 are simply much easier to load. (Think metal sliding across a polymer cutting board, versus metal dragging on metal.) It's accurate. A 3" group at 25yds was a rather casual affair, and I'm no bullseye expert. I don't feel like I have to work as hard to shoot tight groups, but it's likely just that the gun feels smoother and more solid. The trigger... I didn't think DA would be a change, but it is. A big one. The thing that's new is that you begin working the action right at the beginning. With a Glock or M&P you quickly delete 2/3s of the travel by pulling through the pretravel, and then beginning your real trigger press when you work the connector or sear. With a hammer gun, the whole pull is work. What that means is that I'm working the trigger before I acquire a sight picture - just a bit, but it's happening and that is new. The weight isn't the issue, it's the length of the pull. (Ben Stoeger was definitely right that you need to pull through the trigger, and not "stop and snatch" in an attempt to trap the sight picture. SA isn't a problem so far for me, as long as I'm expecting it. I shanked 3 or 4 follow-ups shots low on the transition from DA to SA, which means practicing in live fire every chance I get. The gun is fat and heavy and the buttons are in all the wrong places. But I can already tell it'll be a fast sexy machine once I'm used to it! Warning - Sketchy reloads ahead: DA & SA pulls, unfired:

It does look exactly like miniature Nerds candy, as stated earlier. Cant wait to play with it.

Exactly! Pretty sure you're a 650 user... CCI are also the only primer my vibraprime eats like candy.

RIP Mike - his contribution to all of our lives in the reloading process alone will not be forgotten, and he obviously did so much more.

Posted by USPSA president Mike Foley on another forum: "There is a board policy that dictates that a president cannot announce a Nats location or date without a contract. It is in place to prevent competitors from making plans based on the potential of changing venues. I don't have a contract yet, but the plan is to have an irons Nats, Production/Limited/L10 in October in the Western US."

1. Because people are much less likely to attempt to send a bullet 1/4" away from a noshoot than a window frame in the first place. 2. Because you staple the noshoot to the wall so that it protrudes 3" or so into the window opening, making the window smaller. Even if they hold just above the white thing with their dot and pop a few shots off... It perforates the noshoot. Not the wall.

I run the Ghost pouches (I'm a Production guy, not SS) and just wanted to mention that the pouch body is retained to the belt bracket by a single screw as well. In case that changes anything. (Though they're tough enough to land on top of doing the whole "fall out of shooting area" thing, without damage.)

Oil it each time you shoot it. Clean it before majors, or every few months. If it won't run 5,000 rounds between cleanings then it isn't something I want to be shooting. One live fire practice weekly, and five matches a month, mean that I'd be cleaning for several hours a month. That time goes into dryfire instead. This is the typical status of every gun I have competed with, above, right around the time I clean them. Carry guns and household defensive long guns stay spotless at all times, however.

I lube with one shot. Assemble ammunition in my 650. Gauge it - unless it's practice ammo. Then shoot it. ... I have better things to do with my time than tumble loaded ammo to make it prettier. The inside of the gun winds up dirty either way, and tumbling means I'd have to worry about dusty ammo being fed to my gun! The horror!

Does it only happen when going fast / high stress / at a match? The most frequent cause of this is technique - you have to get on the release out early while the gun is still on target. As you pull the gun back to reload it's no longer vertical, and gravity isn't helping you the way it's supposed to. Ensure it isn't technique, then we move on to diagnosing equipment.