MemphisMechanic

From what I've seen, the main issue is velocity. The slower a bullet is traveling, the less agessively it's given a stabilizing spin by your rifling - It's turning fewer RPM. A light 115pf load with a 105gr bullet is still going a few hundred FPS faster than a 115pf load using a 147gr bullet... and the long/fat nosed/butt-heavy 147 should logically be more prone to tumbling than the short point bullets are. I've found 140+ grain loads generally seem to shoot more accurately at 132-137 power factor than they do when they're loaded super light. Lighter bullets don't show the same dramatic accuracy change when you load them to mousfart specs.

No - "hot" in this case refers to temperature of burn, not speed as in a fast powder. Dual base powders (Titegroup) are murder with moly coated precision bullets when it comes to smoke. Think "black powder musket." N320, WST, and the like are cleaner. FWIW I found very little improvement between Titegroup and RS Comp behind a coated bullet when it came to smoke. Other powders like Solo1000 and WST were noticeably better. However... it is hard to find anything that burns cleaner than N320. I'd recommend it for your major match ammo if you intend to shoot precision bullets there. Use the other powders for practice and locals where the sun won't be downrange while you're shooting.

Very, very solid for a first showing! You're already seriously beginning to see how important it is to practice exactly the way you shoot. Aren't you? Or more specifically the way you draw and reload. Good news is speed reloads and draws can be made very fast at home (and much more quickly) in dryfire. Dryfire is where you learn. Live fire is where you confirm you're learning right! (Also: You get strange looks dumping mags on the ground at stand and shoot indoor ranges. But I do it anyway. Now you know why.)

I have to agree with that! APEX caused a boom in M&P popularity years back. The two most popular production guns with lacking aftermarket support nowdays would have to be the P320 and the Tanfos... But at least Partiot Defense is finally making a beautiful Stock II or III trigger a DIY proposition if you aren't afraid of a bit of polishing & fitting with a dremel.

Yes. Accurate and much smokier than other coated bullets is an honest opinion. Take a few mags worth of FMJs with you to a major match (in case you have to shoot with the sun behind your targets) and they work just fine.

Tip: spray the inside of a piece of old Tupperware then shake the cases around in it for a bit then dump into your casefeeder. This way no lube makes it's way into the case where it can contaminate powder or primer and give you a dud round. Granted, that's hard to manage with one shot (it dries extremely fast) but it can be done.

Precision is the lone holdout who isn't using a hitek/polymer or powdercoating. As far as I know it's still an old fashioned Moly coating.

Advanced search... author = kneelingatlas phrase= "slide stop" That didn't take long. http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/220508-75-ts-auto-close/#comment-2455645 (Nothing shocking though. Common sense is found herein.)

You mean the slide drops and then hangs with the round fed part way?

That's good info - very helpful. Thanks!

Damn! For reference from Tanfo-land: stock II or III: $900 DP sight: $40 Springs, disconnector, hammer, etc etc: $380 Grips: $50ish ... at least I found factory mags from CDNN for $15 each. I shot an M&P for seven years. Aside from a $200 Apex fitted-barrel I only fed it (3) recoil springs and ammo for 35-40,000 rounds.

Not surprising. There's an awesome explanation of everything in these guns by kneelingatlas, if you look hard enough!

Bullet weight, power factor, and spring weight please? Would be helpful for the rest of us to know more about what pounded your locking lugs into submission.

100% of the rounds that are "hanging up" your Lim Pro are passing the plunk & spin tests?

Proof that nobody wants to feed the AR platform with 10 round magazines. IDPA is about to prove it again.

Sounds like you have it diagnosed. Needs to learn to drive the gun on the close fast targets, instead of ride the recoil - which is something she should know is a sound way to shoot at distant small targets where split times aren't as crucial as accuracy. Oftentimes a novice simply hasn't had someone explain to them that you need to shoot close vs far targets differently. Trigger control, sight picture, and recoil management can be changed if that's what you need to do to get a hit at your skill level. The only thing I don't personally change is my grip doesn't loosen up on long shots.

As a Production guy who is left handed, I am looking to set up a Stock 2/3 to auto-forward consistently when a magazine is inserted with a moderate amount of force. I shot the M&P for 7 years because I could thumb both the mag and slide controls effortlessly, and now I'm going back to a right-handed gun. Worse, it has a safety lever blocking the ergonomic path between my trigger finger and the slide stop. I played with a friend's CZ Custom Shadow and it will smoothly drop the locked-back slide if you insert a magazine with a normal "make sure it's fully seated" smack from the heel of your palm. (Which is perfect - I don't want the slide to drop early if I misalign the mag and bump the frame with it roughly) I've already polished the contact areas on the stop and the slide itself in hopes of setting up my Tanfo like this. It's been my experience that light recoil springs and strong magazine springs help as well, but I won't be putting my gun back together for a few days - not until all the P.D. goodies arrive - so I cannot test it. In the meantime, has anyone noticed a direct correlation between ease of "auto forwarding" and certain modifications?

I've always stuck with once a year. (Shooting 10-20k a year.)

Ahh yes that's a factor! I found it helpful, but I'm not dealing with those things.

Still polishing a little here and there. I have two days til I have any chance of my parts appearing, and I don't want to tear down the Sear cage before then, to forget how it works. So I'm polishing a piece here and there. I find you're much more deliberate about perfecting each part's finish if you aren't trying to do everything in a few short hours.

8lb long slide is "supposedly" the same spring they give you when you order a 10lb for the shorter Stock II. But I read that here, on the internet, where someone got it secondhand from a Wolff employee. So this is an apples-to-oranges comparison.

If you want to be truly competitive in Limited you need sell the 34 and buy something in .40 because you'll never be truly competitive as a 9mm guy with someone of equal skill who is shooting Major.

Agree with the others: Install a good sight set from Dawson Precision or the Sevigny competiton set from Warren Tactical, and enjoy the gun, if production is where you want to play! Something with a plain black rear sight and a fiber optic front.

Orders which shipped today: CGW: canik trigger pin Patriot Defense: Extractor, Firing Pin, Sear, Trigger springs. 8lb longslide (10lb) recoil spring 13 & 14 lb PD Hammer Springs Bolo, Titan hammer, Xtreme Sear & F.P. Block Henning guide rod Going to see what happens when it's time to fit and install all of this on Wed or Thurs. I've already teamed my barrel to take my pet load out to 1.160 long, so I won't have to worry about those teething issues on my new gun. Thursday or Friday, I'll run a couple hundred rounds through it at an indoor range. Then, like a fool, I'm going to drive two hours to a match I haven't attended before and shoot it for the very first time under stress. (I'll be bringing my M&P along as a backup and I'll be surprised if I don't have to switch to it!)

What @johnbu said. And if you want to load bullet X at 1.150" with total confidence, send him a dummy round at 1.155 or 1.160 and ask him to cut your barrel so that one clears.