MemphisMechanic

Talk to Matt: http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/profile/4477-waktasz/ He ran a cheap EAA in IDPA for a bit that had mostly the same internals as a Stock II so you would even have the ability to dress the trigger up nice and sexy.

Clarifying: The engagment surfaces didn't get a mirror polish but everything like that did. All of the pins are chrome-dipped now and the holes got 1,000 then 2,000 grit wet-sanded with Flitz polish as the lube. The trigger is smooth as glass. And short. It's just not light. So ... it's perfect. For me. I did have to fit the FP Block to the sear, by the way. Johnbu walked me through that too - filing a few thousandths off the tab on the block.

Bottom of breechface: chamfered and polished slide rails: polished chamber: polished like mad feedramp and back of barrel hood: polished extractor and pin: polished breechface: polished I didn't mirror polish the action's contact points specifically to avoid having a flyweight trigger. This gun is right where I want it. I always do, however, polish the f**k out of everything else. Why? Because it makes the gun so much easier to clean! Carbon wipes right off a glass-like surface without scrubbing, and I hate cleaning guns.

Johnbu said the same thing. If you can engage the safety in all three positions (hammer down, half cock, and hammer back) stop there. I removed a fingernail's width worth of material I would guess. It fit perfectly on the second try, and was initially hard to activate. Flicking it on and off a couple of dozen times, it's already just as easy as the unmodified gun was.

...here... Trim that spot until your safety can slide underneath it and will engage with the hammer forward, half cocked, and fully cocked. (You can also grind down the bump on the safety's built in pin. The safety is more expensive if you mess up... but it's easier to test fit it.) That's all there is to it. FINAL NOTE: Make sure to place the long leg of the sear spring back into groove in the safety's shaft before installing your slide, or you'll bend (ruin) the spring and gouge the bottom of your slide. If you're installing a Titan/Bolo combination or other combination of trigger parts, you can focus on fitting them now. I got lucky and didn't need do any fitting at all.

That photo doesn't show it all that clearly. So here's a video of my gun with the sear fitted and able to be engaged/disengaged. This should make things clear to you: When you first put the sear cage in, you probably won't be able to do that. But you'll be able to see where your parts are colliding. Right...

Next, reinstall the cage into the gun's frame. Simply press it down and back into place, then reinsert the safety through it to retain it. That's it. Oh, you'll be fighting the hammer and mainspring the whole time. See the reassembly video linked above to see what you're supposed to do. Now, on to fitting. This is where text gets confusing. So let's begin with pictures and video instead. The image below shows what your problem is going to be. There is a bump on the safety's pin that needs to be able to rotate UNDER the sear's short leg when you flick the safety into the upward position. The safety locks under the sear, and prevents the trigger from being able to rotate it downward. IMPORTANT: This means you're grinding on the underside of that sear leg. You aren't making the tip of it shorter. That's how people have ruined sears.

Photo 1: Ease the sear into the cage from below, making sure the long leg of the spring ends up on top of the cage as shown. The short leg of the spring should also face up, pinned against the center part of the sear. Photo 2: Move the long spring leg into this notch to take the stress off of it, and push the sear up and forward into place. Everything should now be arranged for you to slide the sear pin in from the side... push it in or gently tap it into place. Not much force will be required. As you push the Q-tip out of the far side, things may bind up when the steel pin runs into the side of the sear spring. A small pick or punch can be used to push the coils into line so that you can press the pin all the way home. The sear cage is ready to go back into the gun, except that the long spring leg is going to be in the way of the safety's pin. Photo 3: Take the tip of a pick and push the spring leg up like this, and it'll stand up in exactly the position shown. Every single time. Grab the tip of the spring leg with needle nose pliers, and move it over to the small notch in the center of the sear housing where it began when you disassembled the gun. That's where you'll see it for the remainder of the photos.

Next I took Johnbu's advice and made a slave pin out of a Q-tip cut down to the same width as the Xtreme sear. Assemble the sear and spring as shown. (Note: Per Johnbu's advice, I polished the sides of the sear and inside walls of the cage, the pin, and the pin holes in both parts. Per his conversation with Eric Gruaffel the new one is still only surface hard, so I didn't polish engagement surfaces.)

When I was about to fit my Xtreme sear, I took a bunch of pictures detailing how the factory 2-pc sear and cage assembly went together. Don't bother. Note exactly how the wider coiled spring in the center of the sear is installed (in the above photo) because that's the only thing you need to replicate with the new parts... then take a punch and push the pin out, allowing everything to fall apart. I barely needed a tap from a hammer. It's not a press fit.

You'll be faced with this now. On the left side of the photo is the thin second piece of the sear. It's the part with the round hole facing upward that has a spring's pigtail sticking up into it. This leg is lowered as the trigger is pulled to disengage the firing-pin block. (It works the opposite of a firearm like the Glock or M&P, which are raised when the trigger is pulled.) This second piece of the sear has an extra spring, and is therefore responsible for a slightly higher trigger-pull weight.

All you're going to disassemble on the gun are very easy things: 1. Drive the small roll-pin out of the right side safety and remove it from the shaft. (If your gun has an ambidextrous safety.) 2. Lift the leg of the sear spring up off of the safety and onto the housing. 3. Pull / tap the left side safety out. 4. Push in and forward on the sear cage and it pops right out. That's it! For more info: refer to these videos for step by step assembly & disassembly. If all you're doing is installing a 1-piece sear then you can skip directly to the steps on removing the safeties. (the sear housing pops out with a tap once the safety is removed) How to take your Stock II or III apart: https://youtu.be/oxA-rCdgXxU How to put it back together: https://youtu.be/dUcFuy1B65Q

First, thanks a ton to Johnbu for the help (via phone calls and texts at 11pm!) in getting my gun up and running with the Titian/Bolo/Extreme sear combination. These guns are rather easy to work on, although that won't be apparent until you're done. I promise you can do all of it yourself if you own a hammer, roll-pin punches, pliers, and a dremel with polishing accessories. The hard part for most is installing and fitting the 1-piece Xtreme sear. Probably because it's the part with the least documentation online. Let's change that.

Load a dummy round with your preferred bullet at an OAL a few hundredths longer than the longest you want to be able to feed, and send that with the gun. Mine's getting cut to feed 150gr Bayou SWCs at 1.140 soon.

I got my gun's trigger reworked, resprung, and polished up last night. The last thing I did before slapping it back together was to work on the above procedure. I will say that I'm surprised just how aggressive I had to be in rounding the corners of the stop and the slide's notch in order to make any difference at all. On try #3... I believe I nailed it. A brisk but not brutal insertion of a mag filled with 10 dummy rounds will run the slide forward every time. Intentionally botching reloads and banging mags into the bottom of the frame didn't result it in falling early, which is even better. Round the corners off aggressively with a small file and then polish like mad with a dremel.

In a magical land where all the candy is free, that's supposed to be true. Sometimes we mess up and forget to reload coming into a new position. Also: You ever take extra shots on steel? You've never spotted a faster way to attack a stage that allowed you to delete an entire position if you completely empty the gun once or twice elsewhere, requiring a slide-lock load on the move?

The obligatory dryfire video:

The Bolo and Titan were indeed a drop-in combination with no fitting needed at all! I did have to fit the 1-piece sear but that's actually very simple. Here comes the most misleading pair of numbers I've dealt with in a long time, in the photos below. Recall that I'm not chasing a 4 pound double action with federal primers, or the magic 5.1 pound combination that will pop CCIs after months of experimentation. I wanted the trigger smooth, short, shootable, and I want it to run when it's dirty as hell on any ammo it's fed. So I polished for smoothness, not mirror perfection. I'm also running the 14 lb PD hammer spring. I am thrilled. It's short and crisp and smoooooth so it feels like half the weight it actually measures. Also, guys. Seriously. Tanfo's are simple to work on. Don't be afraid to tear yours down. Tomorrow I'll be posting a "fitting a 1-piece sear step by step guide" since that is the most intimidating part.

What little pretravel remains after you stick a bolo/titan/Xtreme Sear into a Tanfo is found up front in the trigger mechanism. Pull your slide off and you'll see that your trigger pivots on one roll pin, and the trigger bar pivots on a second one installed lower in the trigger. Those two pin-fits have a small amount of clearance, which as you work your trigger through it's pre-travel, is possible to see. The CGW Canik free-floating pin will amplify the slop at the upper trigger pivot, and thus you'll get a bit more movement out of the trigger before the slop has all been taken out and you're working on the Sear with your trigger press.

Yes. Across the top of the middle of the fiber - between the front and rear "tabs" on the sight which retain it, where it gathers light.

Canik pin isn't here yet. The PD parts got here faster than the CGW. Probably by 1 day. If I build the gun with a factory pin, will there be any issue switching to the CGW later on? Wobble is just fine with me.

Oh, and this one is for the rest of you who have just bought your gun and have no idea how tiny some of these parts actually are. Top to Bottom: EGD Guide rod, BOLO, PD hammer spring, EGD Sear.

I doubt the rest of you knew this. But November 16th is actually Christmas... at least when it the contents of my mailbox. (I ordered Monday morning. Not bad at all!) Time to go to work! I'll be back (much, much) later.

Oh, it already was.

Take the barrel out of your gun. Drop 50 of each into the barrel and see if they drop in freely, spin smoothly (not spinning = bullet is shoved into the rifling) and if they drop back out effortlessly when you flip the barrel muzzle-up. If so, reaming won't help. If some or all of them are hanging up because they don't drop in all the way or won't spin, then yes it needs to be reamed.