MemphisMechanic

Those are gorgeous. I'm grabbing a pair of them as soon as they come out! (Us USA-based guys with our large frame Tanfos have no voice but to keep waiting)

This is the only rear shot I have, before I coated them in silicon carbide 60-grit media. I dremeled a thumb-groove into the grip, and was taking a photo of it. Hooefully someone else has one a bit closer to the picture you want.

Okay, I'll grant you that's weird. Their fatter BBI 135gr bullet plunks & spins in my G34 out past 1.130" and your bullet should be able to be loaded longer than that, not shorter!

Add ten bottles to your cart then go to checkout. If the deal hasn't expired, you'll see something like this:

1. Run an OAL at 1.125" or 1.130" and see what happens. You'll probably like it's ability to 2. It looks like you're using the flat-nose profile seating die. Flip it and use the round-nose profile instead. Yes, even though the bullet has a flat point. Your Dillon die is leaving a round raised spot on the bullet because the die's flat point and the bullet's don't perfectly match.

You have to know there's a plunger in there that needs to be caught, first. No other gun works like that so you don't expect it

Why on earth didn't you change mags between the first and second positions? I loved the no no NOOO text on the screen, but you did "mallninja!" wrong by going slow-motion with the reload. You look slow! Next time play that part at 1.25 x speed so people mistake your reload for Alex Gutt's.

I bought a spare when I ordered all of my trigger job parts from PD. Largely because I wasn't aware it existed when I tore down my Stock 3 - and got really lucky sweeping the floor until it magically appeared in the debris pile.

It's always about moving more efficiently between positions. And staying low and wide while driving the pins out.

Also. This could get bad. Tanfo guys already seem to tinker with their gat more than they shoot it. Now your going to have all of them dry-firing... parts replacements! ... On a serious note, I remember as I first tore into my Stock III while watching the YouTube tutorial... "man, breaking all of this down just to change hammer springs would be tedious." Once I got a look at how things actually work, well, your video highlights the fact that it's actually a really easy design to work on.

You're only saying that because I already grilled you for it via text message.

Redneck Dykem (machinist's layout fluid) is the easiest way to tell what is rubbing. Use it to coat all the contact areas on the barrel, then cycle the gun until you can see where the two parts contact. Redneck Dykem is a Sharpie permanent marker. Might I ask why you're determined to get a duty-grade gun into sub-1" groups at whatever distance you're shooting? That's unusual on this particular forum. If we can hit "minute of upper A zone" at 15 to 20 yards, most of us are quite happy, so I like hearing from those with other passions.

When I actually removed metal I was holding it by hand. To prop the sear up for the photo, I slid it onto a punch sticking out of my "armorers 2x4" There's no need to do so unless you need a third hand to snap a picture.

If you actually watch the factory sear & safety operate you'll see that the place you're fitting things is actually not super-precise. I felt just fine dremeling that particular spot, and it's the only place in the gun that's still rough and unpolished: I didn't particularly care if application of the safety was a bit gritty, and it turns out to be imperceptible anyway.

Ahh. First season. Just wait. You'll see places where you can push this to your advantage soon. Step one in seeing it, is having the confidence that you can do it.

I'm going to suggest (to avoid cluttering a "how to" post and keep it on topic) that you take a look at the BEginners forum or post this content in a similar group where you'll be getting answers from more than just those of us who shoot Tanfos.

I would have to refinish it, too. Rustoleum Precision Firearm Coatings. Just to give the finger to the guys with their tacticool dot-equipped Glocks and such.

Thanks John! I'll probably pester you again in the future. It'll stay fairly clean as I keep an eye on things like the FPB operation. Once I'm satisfied I'll tear it down and cerakote it. Then all bets are off. It'll be cleaned every few thousand rounds whether it needs it or not.

Sometimes the fastest stage plan involves going 1 for 1 on steel and intentionally shooting the gun dry, too. It may not be the way you choose to shoot the stage, but there are times when completely emptying the gun will allow you a few new options.

Yes. Because ... 1-second per point down. Because of fear over their bread and butter customers (MM/SS) rage-quitting after being destroyed by the 15/20yd targets over and over if the classifier had retained it's same difficulty.

J-frame Optics. It's going to be the 5-shot BUG hotness. I can't wait to mount a C-more to something that weighs less than it does.

That's why I did it! This badly needed resource is missing. It took me the better part of a whole morning to write and edit the description of a process I can accomplish in 10 minutes.

The best part about the sear-fitting? Once you pull the sear housing out to do it, the rest of the inner workings will be wide open to see. These guns aren't nearly as complex as they look. Take your time. Polish all the pins and holes and springs. It'll reward you with the smoothest trigger you've ever pulled. The springs set your pull weight, polishing determines its smoothness.

Info fixed in #2. Fitting the safety to the sear is also an effective way to go. And faster.

I'll try to get you one. My suggestion would be to make five or six passes with a file and then aggressively polish both surfaces with a dremel, oil, test, and repeat. I modified the angle of the slide's notch to be more of a \ instead of a I ... in favor of the direction that makes it easier to drop. Then broke the square corner of the slide stop with a few passes at a time until it was visibly rounded. And found out that wasn't nearly enough either. I wouldn't worry too much about overdoing it - you can always square the slide notch up again with your file or roughen both surfaces to make the slide harder to drop if you go too far. But "too far" is actually much further than you would expcect it to be. This isn't a hair-trigger engagement we are working with.