MemphisMechanic

Well what I was telling you, politely, was that it isn't really worth doing. But hey. Knock yourself out.

I agree, yet disagree. I dislike circus props: Grab these three colored cards, shuffle them, and shoot the color of the target that you flip over on top. Gimmicks. The tires and the rooftop stage, however, appeal to me. I wish USPSA demanded far more athleticism than it requires - that it was more of a sport and less "golf with guns" that caters most strongly to guys in need of a knee replacement. Additionally, that the shooting was as technically demanding as some of the IPSC matches I've seen and less "lets all just shred 16 wide open Metric targets at warp speed"

I pretty much flipped the mag catch before ever inserting a magazine into the gun. If not for this post I would never have thought about that being the cause. It's normal for some Tanfos to act funny after inserting an empty magazine into the gun, mostly due to how the follower can move inside the mag body. Since this is a situation you cannot replicate when operating the gun, it's a non-issue: just do your dryfire with at least one dummy round in each mag.

Will these mags drop or freely or do they hang in the gun? My gun doesn't like empty mags being fed to it unless you thumb the follower into just the right position first. Does it only do it when an empty mag is insterted, versus a dummy round and then cycled until empty? If so... do what I do. Dont worry about it.

I had the Scales 2.0 (with the extra teeth milled in) and I still wound up hand-checkering the front and rear edges of the grips to get them to have enough grip. Scales aren't incredibly cruel or grippy.

It's also very easy to add an internal overtravel stop to an M&P, if you can find a buddy with a welder. Mine has .005" overtravel and it feels amazing in dryfire. In operation on match day or during live fire drills, however, it feels exactly the same. I probably wouldn't sweat it unless you just like to tinker.

Sounds like a "no stippling for you" to me.

A tire is not a box. Gotta jump/climb in and out of that bad boy. I see no issue with it, and think it would be an interesting challenge I wouldn't have minded shooting, whereas boxes would have been boring.

I didn't expect to like it, either. Looks great though! Cerakote is my favorite finish to date. I have done every single one of my competition guns with it, and the slides on some carry guns as well. (Tanfoglio Stock 3's only come in a blued finish) If you can media blast and airbrush, it's rather simple and damn tough... for paint.

Use a large hammer and a steel punch that's at least 1/4" thick so it's less likely to slip or to bend, if you have to. I have an old piece of ~1/2" brass stock that I use as a punch. Those tiny gunsmith hammers, or even a ~12-16oz claw hammer aren't suited for this task. Use a baby sledge so you don't have to swing for the fences and can still put some serious force into it with ~75% power swings where you still have accuracy and won't hit your thumb or the slide. The factory sight is in there tight. Hit it like you mean it. Make sure you drive it out the right side of the gun - the side with the ejection port. You'll do less damage to the finish on the factory steel sights (they're very hard and don't deform too easily) if you smack it a half dozen times really hard to break it loose, than if you spend a full day pecking and tapping on it with "non marring" brass and aluminum tools.

I try really hard to keep around 1,000 rounds in reserve in case the press breaks, I have a sudden urge to go practice, etc. So I usually load 500 and shoot 300 or so on a typical match weekend.

People have adapted cheap backup camera systems too. Show up with everything included, work pretty well, and all you need is a 12 power supply.

They're 3D printed.

I had a pair of Hennings on my Tanfo and they're really really nice grips. My favorites... as long as you don't want a palmswell, which I find that I do. Also, Henning doesn't carve a thumb groove into his grips on the lefty side of the gun, and since I'm left handed, that was a sour discovery. His grips are asymmetrical. But the aesthetics and contour of the Hennings are flattering as hell. Beautiful machine work.

Because you didn't shoot your sights. Potential cause #1: You had predetermined what cadence you'd fire your second shot at before the first one had even finished. The sights weren't there, but it was time to shoot anyway... and either you didn't have the visual patience to get the sights back in the center, or you didn't have enough trigger control to keep that shot in the center at speed. #2: You're dragging your second round off the target. Beginning the transition back to steel a millisecond too early, before round has left the barrel.

I can shoot a 2" group all day long on a freshly painted piece of steel at 25 yards, if the gun and ammo are capable of it and I take around 10 to 20 seconds between shots: actual slow fire. Replace the situation with a paper target indoors and group size is typically 6-8" with the same gun and ammo. If you can't consistently point the gun at the exact same spot because you can't SEE it blurred out but still legible with a hard front sight focus, you're never going to shoot tight groups. For me at least, the problem is vision.

Thanks for posting up. I assume it felt like something in the neighborhood of N320 or P-V as far as recoil impulse, as well.

You may have irons on a CO gun. You *must* have an optic. However, nobody with a dedicated gun in CO who is finishing well in the division (aka people who practice hard and often) is running irons. They're just a distraction.

Damn. I haven't checked in on this post in roughly a year. You're making some serious progress and I see really big gains.

Also. The guy who runs the local indoor range has the best indoor lighting setup for his I've ever seen: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Globe-Electric-500W-Portable-Halogen-Yellow-Work-Light-6050401/300374664?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|DigitalDecor|google||_pkw__pmt__product_300374664&mid=sf50WSK5W|dm_mtid_8903yuu57254_pcrid_142836471302_pkw__pmt__product_300374664_slid_&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JrMBRDPARIsACis1HybX5W1kRKDhTaMqMcgWMOd8y2EeoUA_VFdoMmv01jiug7CdJV-cSIaAss4EALw_wcB Place one of those next to the chronograph LOWER THAN THE BODY of the chrono. It's important that lamp's light can't spill directly into the sensors from the side. Aim the lamp directly at the underside of the sky screens. It'll read 95%+ of the time without a fancy indoor light setup. Accurately.

So you want me to scrap my Statue of Liberty start when you come shoot with us in two weeks? Facing uprage, phone book cradled under one arm, paper maché torch held aloft in the other....

Personally I think they should have allowed mags carried in your back pockets (i.e. typical rear pocket location on blue jeans) in Production. There's certainly no competitive advantage and it would make things easier on brand new shooters who often show up with only two pouches. But oddly enough they forgot to consult me when the division was born, despite clearly being an internet expert in such things.

It's not sexy to buy the Camry of the chronograph world. Everyone wants the shiny Labradar sports car or somesuch. Toyota sells a million of them for a reason though. No flash or bang, but they work with boring reliability and they're economical. I'm a huge fan of the ProChrono Camry.

They're worth it. When you hit a crimped primer or a 22LR jammed down inside a 9mm case or whatever, it just drives the decapping pin up through the jam nut, no matter how tight you set it. The tip won't just bend over anymore. I marked mine just above the jam nut on top of the die with a small notch from a hand file so that I don't need to have a piece of brass in the die to find my primer punch depth anymore: Loosen jam nut, reposition that notch just above the die, tighten, pitch the problem case, and resume loading. Takes maybe 30 seconds.

Look between the brass locator buttons. Very simple trick: