MemphisMechanic

What is on top of fists in front of brown? Blurry sights. Very, very blurry sights. I see those above the outline of the gun and the fists. But I'm not looking for any more reference (doing any more aiming) than you are, because we are all in agreement here. Our visual cue that the gun came out of the holster in a proper grip and is indexed on the gimme target... is just a different point on the gun. I'm not looking for a sight picture, I'm not even looking for the blurry green fiber when I say the sights are there at 3 yds. They're part of the outline of the gun, too.

He's going to misread that as you taking a sight picture and tell you it's slow. Looking through the blurry sights as they lift into view is no different from looking at the outline of the gun. We're simply looking at the top portion of the outline. "See what you need to see" is a common mantra for a reason. This is the only thread I've run into on BEnos where one questionably-skilled inidividual is telling a GM what he should be seeing.

You think you're contradicting me, the rest of us see you validating.

Depend what you're shooting. With a P320 the trigger works almost the same. With a Glock, CZ, or a Tanfoglio you can gimmick the gun to keep the trigger "live feeling" for multiple shots.

Middling A class peon here. I gave up saying the same thing over and over and having it deliberately misinterpreted to suit his argument.

Careful. When you finally try a USPSA match, IDPA is going to begin to get awfully boring. Voice of experience.

@GregInAtl You'll learn to feel for lack of primer every time you cycle it soon, which usually happens during/after some kind of jam. Anytime you feel zero priming effort, pull the case and look at it. Either it was a loose pocket the primer slid right in, and you put it back and keep rocking... or you pitch that case and replace it with a sized & primed one or leave the station empty. You'll stop spilling power after some practice with the new machine - once you figure out how to FEEL a missing primer before you fill that case with powder. You're exactly right: all those automated widgets can get out of synch when you clear a jam if you're not very careful. I recommend next time: 1. Before loading primers, run 25 or so pieces of brass through station 1 then pull it out of the machine. Set this deprimed brass aside to replace cases that get pitched during a jam to keep the machine full. 2. The next 25, size them and press a new primer into place. Set those aside too. Use them to replace a case in station 2 when you crush a primer or the like. 3. Also provide 25 or so cases that you'd have dumped into the casefeeder to load. These replace a 380 that snuck into place of a 9mm at station 1, or when a case gets crushed by the sizing die if you don't have it lined up perfectly. Etc. I keep all three types lying around in separate small bins when loading.

Ziptie a small auto inspection mirror to the press's frame that reflects directly into the case at the seating station, and get a cheap $3 Walmart clip-on desk lamp and clamp it to the pole that supports the casefeeder. With a ton of light and no need to bend forward, it's much easier to inspect every single case you load visually, after the powder check has done it's job.

Biggest hint for new 650 users: two small boxes next to the press. One with sized and deprimed brass, the other with tumbled casa you scoop out of the casefeeder. If a jam occurs at the powder station, slip a case out of box #1 into that spot once you clear it, and the press won't spit a primer down the ramp since you've given it something to prime. Ditto for a jam at the casefeeder causing an empty station #1, and a case out of box number two. When clearing jams, the trick is to keep the shellpate from indexing, and also not advancing the primer feed. Basically you get really good at clearing the jams your 550 had... one-handed. So the shellplate doesn't come crashing down.

Last year he taught here in Memphis. @B_RAD is bringing him into Arkansas this year, I beleive.

So no - you haven't actually tried it on a timer because you "know" you're right. Thanks for confirming. (Hint: we're talking about the same level of sight refinement using different words, you simply refuse to accept that.)

That's obviously very questionable, since we're on page two. And if you run them on a timer instead of making blind assertions, I believe you'll find there's no appreciable difference between the two. I've tried it. Have you? Another shocking example an honest timer session debunked: I cannot make myself traverse 10yds any faster with the gun in one hand, instead of in two. Even though I *feel* like it should be faster to pump my arms, the numbers disagree.

I'll just say from direct experience that the 1050 primes mixed 9mm brass far better than any other Dillon press out there. That's one of the main reasons I want to switch from my 650 - now that I shoot a hammer-fired gun with lightened springs... primer seating is a huge factor.

@B_RAD Buy a Q5 Match. I want to shoot it. Hell it makes Hwansik Kim invincible everywhere he goes. It's gotta be the gun.

@B_RAD because we've talked enough via phone and text... I think you'll know exactly what I mean when I say that you are - literally - the dumbest man I know. (Presuming that intelligence is determined by the rate at which one learns from misguided $1,000 purchases.)

I see my sights when I shoot a 3 yard target. They're those incredibly blurry bumps in front of the letter "A" that I have in a crisp, sharp focus. That's what most of us have been saying all along.

You're putting too much thought into this. What myself and everyone else is saying: 1. Not using a sight picture = point shooting. Totally target focused and exclusively relying on index. 2. Sighted fire: Using the outline of the gun, the blurry sights, or any other visual indicator to aim the gun with your eyes, and know that it's on target. Brian's old adage: "seeing what you need to see." What you're saying is different. Not one single commenter in here has argued that a crisp, hard front sight picture - or any amount of refining - is what they use to engage at 3 yards. Or what they mean when they say "using the sights." You can stop arguing with a ghost now.

You are incorrect. It's a matter of paying attention and seeing what is in front of your face, rather than shoving the gun out for a double slap. Seeing doesn't take any more time than not seeing. We aren't talking about a more precise sight picture where you square the sights. We're talking about looking at the one which is present that you're currently ignoring. Paradoxically, the more you see the less rushed things feel and the run feels slower. But feelings don't matter. Only the timer and the hits matter. Come back after shooting for a couple of years and you'll be in our camp. Promise. I used to think this stuff sounded crazy too.

I'm stealing that. It's a great thing for your brain to scream at your trigger finger during stage planning.

If I do this, mine's getting extensively narrowed to match the width of the top of the slide and then the corners chopped off.

At 5 yards on a wide open target, I want to see the sights in some kind of blurry relationship centered in the A zone while gripping hard. Fire. As soon as the blurry bumps tell me the gun has come back down, fire again. Begin looking for next A-zone. Repeat.

I did the thumb groove and it didn't bother me texture-wise. I just made the rest of the grip so fat that my thumb still couldn't reach without flipping the gun in my hand. Sand the grips down a good bit thinner, they'll get fatter than you expect.

I would switch to a lower weight spring for sure as a first step. One, because it's a handling upgrade with match ammo in 9mm Minor. Two, because the extra slide speed will result in more vigorous ejection and may take care of your issue. The next place I'd look would probably be at the angle / position of your ejector relative to another 320 without this issue

Step 1: switch to green FO. Unless colorblindness somehow prevents it. I shot red for three years before switching and haven't gone back.

https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/front-and-rear-sights/cz-rear-sights-all/tactical-sports/ts-fbnl-rear-sight-black.html The part in question. I may do this soon. I like the idea of no moving parts involved in my sight picture.