Rasmilling

Indeed... We have no dealers around here. The Bul Armory seems to be the best value for the money at around 1.350 EUR (1.500 USD). But are they using regular 1911 parts? I find it problematic if i need to get parts from Israel... Regular 1911 parts are easy to come by in EU. So i think a gun based on a regular 1911 design may be the best choice?

Why if i may ask? Those STP is also good looking! But just a bit too pricy.

Hi. I'm looking to buy a 1911 in 45.ACP... But there is a huge market for guns in that category It is gonna be a range gun, and to use in competitions like IPSC etc. (just for the fun of it). I have been checking the websites from some of the dealers around here (Denmark, EU), and some of the opportunities are: - STI Lawman - SPS Falcon - S&W E-Series - Sig Sauer 1911 Target - Bul 1911 Gov. - Kimber Custom TLE II It is (more or less) the same designs and features. Sig and S&W has an external extractor and the other ones a normal 1911-style extractors. The Bul is the only one with a bull barrel. STI is the most expensive, Bul the cheapest etc. etc. I have a Remington R1 Enhanced in 9x19, which is my baseline for comparison. If i could find a R1 Enhanced in 45.ACP, then i would go get it... But the only ones im finding are 1911A1 style R1's and i'm not into that. Any pros and cons of the above? I think Kimber TLE II and STI Lawman is the ones, that resembles my R1 the most.

It is a good idea with the EGW mount, im pretty sure the R1 Enhanced got a Novak cut. I run a red dot on my SW22, and i love it! Yeah i know. But still.. I run loads at around power factor 110, so i dont even know if a real comp would do a difference?

Something more like a Valkyrie then?

I recently got myself a Remington 1911 R1 Enhanced in 9x19. I know it's not a high end 1911, but i shoot great with that gun. Used it at a small local steel challenge match today, and it was pure joy. My thoughts are a Wilson Combat multi-comp and get the slide cut for a red dot (already got a Leupold DPP). But is the Wilson Combat bushing compensator any good, or is it just for show? I am planning to run very light 9x19 loads. I like the idea of having the “same” gun for both limited and open. Same grip, controls, rig, mags etc. … But would it be nonsense to do such a build on a Rem R1?

Is the Eley RN or FN bullets?

A gunsmith here in Denmark Vaabensmeden

Hi guys danish shoother here! What kind of training are you guys doing to improve at SC? I do not have acces to a range where i can set up full scale SC stages. I have a local 25 yard range, with a bit of steel, platerack, dueling tree and ofc. paper targets. You can see ''my'' range here: Shooting plateracks I think im a decent shot, and i know that i can shoot fast... my problem is to be more consistently, and not rush, miss targets etc. I find it hard to do prober training at my local range, since i cant build the stages, and ''just'' end up shooting some random drills and ofc. dry fire at home. I am considering maybe to build some scaled down versions of the stages (using paper targets insted of steel), but i am not sure it is a good idea? What would you guys recomend?

Does anyone know, what size thread a Troy PAR 308.W is using? If i would like a suppressor, muzzlebrake etc.

4.6gr. D032, Lee 102gr. RN (more like 105gr. with my alloy) and OAL 27mm. I think its looking good chrono tomorrow!

Yeah i know all tree of them But the plate cant turn sideways on this design. Plates are sitting in a “fork” (which is why they wont fall, if you hit them too low).

Not sure. But i would think hardcover. The purpose of the guards was to protect the plate holders. But i don't recall them as deemed either soft- or hard covers (nobody questioned it). Exactly! I thought it would be a REF? If hit - the plate must fall. But the CRO said shots like that were missed, so i wouldn't question him. I was working as a helper at that stage (resetting and painting steel).

I only know S&B NonTox, and the flashhole is smaller on those.

Some of the newer ammunition with non-lead primers has a smaller hole through the casehead. S&B NonTox is almost impossible to decap with regular pins.. They are simply too wide.