MemphisMechanic

If your accuracy is lousy you WOULD see a small bump in placement by switching to Major powerfactor in limited or open, if you currently shoot minor. However for a novice shooting at 40% the problem isn’t equipment. It’s speed. The guys finishing at 80%+ in the overalls are probably shooting the match 30+ seconds faster than you with better accuracy. Learn to do everything faster. ESPECIALLY move between positions like you’re an actual athelete in an actual sport. Have someone film you on a stage with movement. Compare what you see to someone at the top. I believe you’ll find much of your answer.

Having never shot at one, this hadn’t occured to me. It absolutely makes sense that it’s an advantage not to have to hunt down tiny A-zones as carefully.

My schtick at the locals is to be the guy designing the medium field course with a few little technical challenges. Feel free to continue to hate me. (Despite the fact that I coached you to that Area match HOA win. You ungrateful SOB.)

We’ll assume you meant an OAL of 1.147 or 1.145 As superdude said, with ANY new bullet and gun combination, you need to plunk & spin your ammo. Coated bullets often need to be loaded shorter due to fatter nose profiles, and the fact that they are .001” to .002” larger in diameter than jacketed bullets. Shorten your OAL gradually until they drop into the barrel and spin freely by hand.

All of your primers should be driven below flush in order to ensure proper function. With a high primer, the first hit drives the primer into the pocket fully instead of denting it, making the issue look like light strikes if it’s visually inspected. The second strike sets off the freshly seated primer. Inspect all of your loaded ammo by touch, looking for primers which feel flush or high. If you can set the base of round on an absolutely flat surface like a pane of glass, and it rocks back and forth? That’s a round which will be problematic. For one... push harder. Pay attention to how each primer feels when seating it. Raise the handle slowly so you can feel it go in, then PUSH HARD at the end.

Small hands prefer the traditional 75-series grip, and I’ve known several junior and youth shooters who universally love that smaller grip. Bigger hands? The SP01 is a bit cramped and the Tanfoglio-sized grip of the Shadow 2 is a much better fit. I certainly fall into this group. Also? Production Ms and GMs tend to be 16-45 year old males who have larger hands, and they set the trend other guys follow.

If possible obtain a nut that threads onto that screw. Run the nut down onto the screw. Cut with dremel or file it down with a belt sander. Round the rough edge slightly with a hand file. Back the nut off the screw, causing it to straighten that last slightly marred thread.

@DKorn @IHAVEGAS I think you’re both in the right. If you have three targets placed partially exposed around the same noshoot at 18yds, none of us could honesty say we were certain which one is being engaged. In an el prez, it would be damed obvious even if you are standing off to the side looking straight at the ejection port, and don’t have the targets in your peripheral vision. Like everything else, it’s situational and some common sense will sort out what you can honestly call, and cannot.

For me, it comes down to this: <continuing to assume we’re discussing some tightly packed targets, and not obvious things like wide transitions or sprinting past a single hidden target...> What am I absolutely certain that I saw? If I’m positioned where I’m looking down the slide over his shoulder, and I can clearly see which target he’s aimed at? He’ll get an FTSA if I see him fire zero shots in it’s direction. I need to be able to see which target he is actually aimed at. If I’m not paying attention because I’m looking for a foot fault, or the hallway is too narrow and I’m stuck looking at gun from the side, or whatever else? The lack of ability to call the FTSA is on me at this point. Either I failed to position myself and pay attention, or an obstacle physically prevented it. Yes, we can all deduce what likely happened... but there is a small chance I might be wrong. So it’s time to default to the RO’s golden rule: Don’t be a dick.

<edit: double tapped>

The penalty is called a Failure to Shoot At. Not failure to point at. That does not meet the definition of shoot, per the glossary. FTSA.

Which was amusing. It was pretty easy to figure out, if you had the HF and percentage data from a shooter or two.

Seven years. When you dredge up an old post, you don’t mess around.

There’s a list of reasons I keep my guns quite hungry for primers as tough as CCI and S&B. Packaging size is very much one of those. You’re not joking. Most of my ammo gets loaded with CCI Magnum 550s. They’re easier to find, 650/1050 presses really run through them well, and my guns run om them. A bonus is arriving at a big match with Winchester or S&B primed ammo KNOWING it’ll run flawlessly, since the weapon has been chewing through brick-hard primers.

@MikeyScuba buy them while they’re around. It’s not like you wouldn’t use them eventually...

For a split second I read that as “$100 for used primers.” Now... *that* would be truly insane pricing.

See the reply from Dillon themselves, a dozen or so above yours. They chimed in to explain it. I don’t pick up badly corroded outdoor range brass, and since I don’t wet tumble, I’ve never experienced one in person. To the originak poster? About 75k loaded on a 650. 10k on the 1050 I replaced it with. I’ve never set off a primer.

The shock bottle is the tightest gauge I have used, in addition to being rapid-fire because you’re case gauging 100 rounds at a time. I like it because of both attributes.

The capacity always makes a difference: one load per stage versus 3 or 4. The optics can make no difference, if everything is within 3-7 yards on something close and fast. Or it can save you multiple seconds on a stage full of distant steel and tight partials.

Winchester are easier to ignite. CCI run through most Dillon presses better. I prefer CCI because my guns aren’t spung lightly, and will eat anything. I often load CCI 550s - the magnum primers that are even harder - becuase they’ve always been easiest to find.

Your scale will have some variation. Your progressive press’s powder measure will have even more. Accept that there will always be some variation, and plan for it accordingly: When setting up the press for a load, drop ten powder charges onto it and take an average to confirm your final charge weight.

@IVC that one gets new guys every time. My 11-rd mag lives in a pocket, not a mag carrier. Even if you mess up and bring it to the line, when there’s no load at “make ready” you won’t end up using it.

@broadside72 Optic CAN be forward of the line. That was expressly spelled out by DNROI. Holster body and actual gun must be behind your hip bone. (In other words, you don’t have to move the holster location if you switch from Production to CO.) Cant maga however you like. Many of us do so in production. I’d recommend removing your +5s simply because the gun needs to fit in the box with your mag inserted to be 100% legal. If a new shooter showed up with them I wouldn’t turn them away however, just be religious about loading to 10.

Have your head in position to be in contact with the stock before you move the gun up to rest beneath it. Assume a sight picture. Keep your head there as you drop the stock to your belt. When the beep occurs, tuck the stock back into a cheekweld. Note: I don’t shoot old, slow vietnam-soldier style with my head laid sideways, I shoot with the head nearly vertical and the heel of the stock inboard on my pectoral. So this isn’t awkward.

@B_RAD will know an answer on this one I think.