MemphisMechanic

How many people did you get to see run through it before you shot? That's the biggest factor in how aggressively I'll plan a sequence like this, personally.

They don't exactly sound fun in gravel, however.

What he said. Its insanely bright. Rather than fighting to see your dot, you can crank it up so that it flares to around 6CMOA... but even in the brightest summer sun on a clear day, I usually have it one or two notches down so that it's small and crisp. The dot is still plenty bright enough to pick up. Battery life is great. It stays on in my holster all day. Much brighter than the triangle, and a couple friends with the triangle are thinking about switching now.

So... Shoot a Glock in Production and feed it sand like the advertisements say?

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_3661998_-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6pLnotqx1gIVhrbACh1MhAXeEAQYASABEgKMzvD_BwE#repChildCatSku=108502838 Since someone asked in a PM, that's what I'm wearing. Anything with a tread like that will probably work fine with dirt/mud, gravel, and wood fault lines. The sole/lugs were the softest one I found at the local Academy.

Pick a cleat with a sole made of a soft rubber with the teeth molded in, and not one with hard plastic or metal teeth jutting out of it. The former grips a wet wooden fault line or pavement about as well as a traditional shoe. Wet wood + hard cleat teeth = faceplant. Avoid hard shiny plastics in the sole, too. My experience has been that they're garbage when it comes to being comfortable to wear all day because they don't flex with you. My current Under Armour lowtops look and feel like a trail running shoe with fewer teeth that are much taller. They were were all of $45, don't hurt to stand on for 8 hours, and kick serious butt when it comes to traction in loose gravel.

Don't consciously press your shoulders down, which it sounds like you're doing. But also don't actively roll them upward. Bring the gun up to your eyes and let the shoulders set in behind that where they naturally would. Forcing your shoulders down ("keeping them down in the socket" or similar phrasing you used) is automatically going to stretch your traps out - you'll feel it in the sides and back of your neck.

What johnbu said. Mine was setup the same: full PD springs with Titan/Bolo/1pc sear, 15.5 hammer spring, and a reamed chamber. The gun would eat CCI Magnums all day long with a 6 pound DA pull that most people guessed weighed 4.5-5.0 due to it's smoothness and lack of stacking.

This is what I beleive I showed in the videos, but a section of Q-tip is what I used before you mentioned it. Between that and the canik pin, trigger springs are easy.

What grips are on your Stock 3 currently? With the factory wood grips it's one of the larger guns out there, short of a 2011 or a Glock 21.

Some people have extremely acidic sweat. Medically proven fact. Mine never rusted. Buuuuuut it was also cerakoted.

He might mold things better for certain guns than others? The dual-layer holster bodies that @Kingman made for me have been for a Tanfoglio Stock 3 and a Walther Q5 Match. Both of them have fit twice as well as any of the 12+ holsters I've used from BladeTech and Comp-Tac.

@MissionaryMike I think you got me mixed up with @rowdyb. I'm still primarily a production shooter rocking the Walther Q5 now, although I am currently dabbling in Carry Optics just because a gun with a dot sounds fun for the next few matches.

Magazine releases, slide stops, safety levers, de-cocking levers, hammers, and triggers, that are stock on one SSP legal firearm may be used on another SSP legal firearm from the same manufacturer provided they are drop in replacements The issue here is SSP legality. The only gun you can "rob" a Titan hammer off of is the Stock 3 Extreme, and it's impossible to make a Stock 3 light enough to compete in IDPA at all. Soooo the hammer you want to install isn't technically legal, and installing a Titan hammer will move you into ESP. If they had made a Limited Pro Xtreme that came with a Titan, it would be fine. They didn't.

For 9mm minor. Nobel Sport Prima V Clays / Clay Dot (124s. Sketchy with 147s) WST

The V8 and V12 guns with multiple rows of poppleholes like the newer Akais, or the most extreme example, the Tanfoglio Gold Team? They generally need a lot of extra powder. In fact in the Tanfos case, lots of Open guys caution newbies to buy that gun in 38S, as Major 9 is seriously sketchy when losing that much gas. (It's built in 9mm for IPSC open shooters, where Major PF = 160.)

A sidenote if you're looking for the cleanliness, softness, and consistency of N320 but don't like the price or can't find it? Nobel Sport Prima V. Powder Valley runs "free hazmat if you buy X pounds" on it regularly. Feels just like N320 and runs almost as clean. At half the price. And grafs and powder valley generally have it stocked. My loads with it have always had an SD of less than 10 (usually 6 or 7) through a Dillon measure on a 650.

How did you modify the Bolo? The Bolo does not push the hammer back as far as a stock disconnector, and requires more hammer spring to light off marginally seated or harder primers. Modifying the nose of it to increase the DA stroke length got my gun reliable with every primer I used. I usually fed it CCI Magnums using a 15.5lb spring, and it ran on Winchester and S&B primers all day long with a 13lb spring. Even a stroked Bolo doesn't crank the hammer back quite as far as the factory disconnector did, but that doesn't mean it can't be reliable without needing heavy springs to get there.

The only things you didn't really need were the extreme firing pin and sear housing. But they certainly won't hurt anything. Polish all of that up nicely and you probably won't have to do any fitting.

Both the S2 and S3 are disgustingly accurate, although the 2 is theoretically capable of shooting tighter groups. Its just a question of how you like your guns to balance, really.

The Tanfo bible is pretty much worthless anymore unless you're shooting IPSC outside the US(PSA). Patriot's parts totally changed the best way to set up one of these guns now, and weren't out when I put that thing together.

I spent 8 years with an M&P, then switched to the secret sauce as well: a Tanfo, in my case. Being a hard-headed production guy. I agree there's absolutely nothing magical about the Q5. The beautiful stock trigger does make it easier to modify until you're happy... although I'm shooting mine completely factory, and I'd never have dreamed of doing that with the god awful M&P schhprittooooink mechanism. But it's just another competitive production gun, just like the M&P. Or that Tanfoglio which I sold to go back to plastic. Or a CZ. Or a Glock. They're all pretty much equally competitive in Production. Just shoot what you like and don't switch until you make GM.

Are you left-handed and have you shot a Q5? I am, and I sold my M&P because the Walther is most definitely better for a lefty. The slide stop is positively enourmous, and the mag release is reversible and even easier to reach than the M&Ps. The walther has the best trigger in a plastic gun by a mile, and is the equivalent of my 2.75lb M&P (with $100 worth of APEX parts) with the addition $3 trigger spring. If you want it light, that is. I actually like the way it shoots with a 5lb trigger and returned it to stock. All of them reload roughly equivalently - the M&P and Walther are not quite as fast as a Glock with a grip plug installed, but they're very close.

What brand of primer are you loading? Use the tail that sticks out of the end of the measuring stick on your digital calipers to check how far below flush your primers are being seated on both presses. How far below flush are your primers? Do the defective rounds pass the "plunk and spin" test when you drop them into your chamber? (Crimp or OAL could prevent it from fully chambering just slightly)

@johnbu I don't know about their factory ammo, but I've found S&B primers to be roughly as soft as Winchesters in my reloads. Maybe a pinch softer or harder, but not too far off.