MemphisMechanic

Not when the hammer is down on every start.

For the record, since you specifically mention Ben Stoeger, he grips approximately twice as hard with the offhand as the trigger hand. I know this because he demonstrated his grip pressure with each hand atop mine, in turn, while I was holding the gun. Most of the top GMs out there teaching right now use a softer trigger-hand grip and a harder weak hand grip than you’re advocating. More like 50-60% strong hand and 110% weakhand: gripping with every ounce of crush force you can manage without causing the gun to shake.

It definitely is. A more detailed username for myself could be MemphisHeavyEquipmentMechanic. You know these rigs your local utility company uses? There’s a huge bearing on top of the pedestal, where the work platform and the booms rotate. When bolts or components coming loose will result in someone plummeting to their death, care to guess which color threadlocker we use? (And same goes for our over-the-road cranes, with MUCH larger rotation bearings.)

Okay then. Comp Tac just messed it up. Either massage it with a heat gun, or send it back. The Blade-Tech for my Tanfoglio Stock III didn’t come close to fitting either. Had to reshape the muzzle end for it to work, and even then... Let’s just say there’s a reason I’m a big fan of RHT holsters now.

And why are you having to mess with a safety? I think I turned the safety on/off a total of three times on my Stock 3.

Blue loctite is a failure waiting to happen on any front sight. Heat and vibration loosen loctite. Think about that. Use red in the dovetail. And red on the screw. If your sight isn’t a very tight press fit, peen the lower corners of it’s dovetail before driving it in. Take a small punch and raise a couple of spots on the corners by striking them with a punch. If the sight doesn’t need driven in with moderate force from a hammer and punch, the setscrew is going to have trouble holding it.

Your holster is for the 5” PPQ. The Q5 Match has a different slide profile from the standard 5” gun. I will say that Red Hill Tactical makes an absolutely exceptional holster for the Q5 Match. I love mine.

I did. I’ve got at least 75k on striker guns and 10-12k on DA/SA guns in the past decade or so. As I said: After shooting both extensively, I simply prefer the “rolling break” of a striker gun. I desire a trigger which creeps as you stack weight - once you find the wall - until it breaks. Guns with crisp crisp triggers ironically are more frustrating for me to group well with. It doesn’t matter much to me either way when shooting close & fast, though.

Until you’re at least an A, what you want to work on hardest is arriving with the gun up six feet or more before you have a clean shot at the target. You likely aren’t losing as much time as you think by not shooting on the move. It is both handy and simultaneously very overrated. You’re almost definitely pissing away a full second per position by stopping your feet then beginning to extend the gun as you halt... while Mr M class already has a sight picture as he rounds the end of the wall, and his feet are bringing him to a stop. Alex Gutt won Production Nationals in 2016. Mute the audio (it’s a severe distraction) and just watch his gun. Particularly as he enters the 2nd position of stages 3 and 6. Without a load to make him bring the gun back, his sights are already up and hunting for brown things halfway across the wall:

@BritinUSA - M&P and Glock 17/34 utilize a 17 pound factory spring as well. Rather than very heavy, I consider that normal. ...For a service / defense / carry weapon.

Coated bullets. Definitely the way to go. I prefer Blue Bullets, Bayou, or Black Bullets International. Load them up over WST or Titegroup (pinch smoky but works) or a similar powder, and you’re good to go. Order bullets in 3,000ish unit cases and powder by the 8lb jug (I buy 2-3 at a time actually) and primers by the sleeve of 5,000 (or two) and you have plenty of components onhand!

Flush primers are high primers, contrary to what those who have only ever shot 1911s or striker guns would have you beleive. Beleive me, when you mess around with a DA/SA gun fitted with a light hammer spring (CZ or Tanfo) you learn this very quickly. I was a hard sell on this point, but eventually came around. Depending on headstamp, an S&B small pistol primer will consistently seat at least .003-.005” below flush in a 9mm case. And if you fully seat them, your Walther will eat them like candy. Those who load on a Dillon 650 - like myself - have the hardest job of consistently seating primers out of all the major progressives, by the way.

There. Fixed it for accuracy. There’s a reason we pour over our guns and meticulously tweak and polish them. Because factories just stamp them out like cars toasters and everything else.

I think he’s asking if maybe the 20rd mags are extended and thus don’t fit in the box.

Agree fully with Charlie. Seen it done at least a dozen times (often, also at unload and show clear when a standing popper is spotted after mag removed) and I’ve never seen anyone balk as the RO standing behind this.

Yeah I don’t care how shiny my brass is. At all. The mission is to get it in good enough shape to load cleanly and smoothly feed in the gun. Doesn’t bother me at all if it’s dingy and dull. As long as it’s smooth.

My Q5 has eaten 600 of them without any issues whatsoever. Are all of yours seated below flush?

I did the same thing to fit PPQ mags to the CRSpeeds for my girl's rig. While you're dremeling on them, shave the top of this spacer down at a 45* angle. It makes inserting mags into the pouches much, much easier.

Glock 34 Sights of your choice (TTI or Vogel are really dang good) Grip tape 13lb ISMI recoil spring on the factory rod Done. Just add ammo. Resist the temptation to buy skilly, because it doesn't work. And just go practice. A lot.

The 2.5MOA DPP is seriously bright too. I run one in CO, and have never played with a dot under 6MOA before which seemed like it would work in bright sunlight. But man, you are not going to lose this thing. It’s got my friends with the 7.5MOA triangle thinking about switching, because the triangle isn’t nearly as bright.

I still use petco-sourced lizard bedding (finely crushed walnuts) and I’m entirely happy with the stuff. A couple of used dryer sheets tossed into ever load in the tumbler keep the dust from really even being noticeable.

I’m with @CHA-LEE... I think reverse temp powders make sense for those of us living in hot climates. It’s easier for @rowdyb and I to find a 97* day to develop loads on, than one below freezing. And I want to develop loads at the point at which they’ll be slowest: if I go to a major in the frozen north someday I will be wondering how much faster my ammo clocks when I’m at the chrono table (I already run 135-136pf in my current Production load)... and that’s a very good thing.

The Q5 chamber is really short, and this round fails to plunk & spin at around 1.123” - 1.125.” My stated OAL is the shortest of my rounds, and my 650 actually produces ammo between 1.110” and 1.118” in this setup, so my longest cartridge has .005” of wiggle room. There’s no need to load the relatively short 125gr TC bullet any longer than this - I’m at a safe pressure and the gun feeds it well and shoots it straight. For some reason we’re all attached to loading long ammo as if it’s somehow better. Unless you’re shooting a 1911/2011 platform that wants really long ammo in order to feed reliably, or you need the case volume for a fast powder under a long 147gr bullet, there’s no reason to push for the longest possible ammo.

Move your thumb. (Some jerk always has to make sure this is the first reply...) On a more helpful note: Does it lock back manipulating a dry gun by hand? When it fails in live fire, where is the follower in relation to the slide stop when the gun is empty and you hold it open to look?

The top recipe featuring a 125 BBI is the only load I’ve run through my Walther as of yet. I am sure 3.65 - 3.70 grains will make 133 PF or so just fine. The Walther has a pretty fast barrel. Eventually I’ll do some group shooting with various OALs and charge weights in search of an optimal load, but right now I’m in “I have these leftover and they work” mode.