MemphisMechanic

Sights on brown, hose her down. (Its amazing how much better my points are when I locate the A-Zone before pressing the trigger.)

Which press are you going to run? I built my bench as tall as possible for a 6’0” operator to load while standing, and it’s pretty much perfect with a 650 in a strong mount on top of it.

If you like the G19 feel, I highly suggest you get your hands on a Walther Q5 Match. And it’s already setup for Carry Optics.

I too load ammo on a progressive, and use a shockbottle case gauge exclusively for quality control purposes. After I have verified with the plunk test that I’ve chosen a good recipe. You’re confusing the “punk and spin” test with “chamber checking” or using the barrel as your case gauge. The P&S does much more, and is a step you should never skip. Take a look at this: If you load too long for your chamber (you’d be amazed how many people actually do this and only rarely have problems) then you will forever have intermittent and randomly-found light strike issues or rounds not fully chambering. What happens is that the slide has to drive the bullet into the lands of the barrel when there should be a few thousandths of space in there, and unless it does that perfectly, the mouth of the case won’t be braced against the front of the chamber. If there’s a tiny gap there, some of your hammer/striker force is going to be eaten up by driving the entire cartridge forward in the chamber before it dents the primer. To test for this, Drop a loaded round into the back of your barrel each time you change to a new bullet or change OALs. Verify that they plop into the chamber, spin freely (a bullet caught in the rifling will drag), and that they fall out effortlessly when you flip the barrel over. If your ammo passes that test, you always shockbottle it, and it has consistently seated primers? You’ll have flawlessly performing anmo.

It depends on which drunken Italian was at the mill that day. Some slides are drilled all the way through, it seems. Mine barely had a dent there, perfect divot for a small set screw to bite into. Go red loctite in the dovetail and on the threads, or go home. Don’t bother with blue loctite - heat and vibration loosen loctite’s bond. Think about the implications of that when placed directly atop a nice warm gun barrel.

I do still have the black ones off my Tanfoglio sitting in my safe if you only need one set.

Because every Timney and Geiselle and other popular 5.56 trigger breaks. Blowback Guns beat the tar out of triggers.

No. I went through my “gotta wear a jersey! Any jersey!” phase around 2011-12, thanks. These days I’d rather just wear whatever unless they’re actually paying me. I’m done wearing logos in return for a few % off on gear, which is all your local jersey-whores are actually getting... ...And I’m hilariously short of being good enough to get paid.

Walther already has done so from what I’ve heard from my contact there. Question is when they’ll feel they’re ready to be added to the website for purchase.

Correct. Those of us with the DA Stock 2/3? Most of us did around 3 passes of in-depth polishing. With the weak hammer strike of double action, every bit of internal slickness helps!

I’d stick with the stock one. I noticed no difference in ignition ability with the heavy PD versus the stock one. The gun had the same % of light strikes with the same weight of hammer spring.

You should read the whole thread, there’s a whole page on that. Short version: Walther claims it has an 11lb spring. They’re wrong, it’s 17ish pounds. I tested it. I’ve running a 13 pound flat wire spring for a 1911 / Glock / M&P (all three were basically identical) on a custom-turned guide rod, and it’s about right. Much smoother than factory with minor PF ammo.

You’ll need to do this until the safety/sear have just enough clearance. I recommend removing material from the underside of the sear leg - it’s far cheaper than a safety is. You are not making the tip shorter! You’re shaving down the underside so that the sear can slide beneath it! When mine was properly fit, nothing moved at all in single action or with the trigger fully down. On safe at half-cock, pressing the trigger resulted in hammer movment, but not enough to cock the gun or drop the hammer. It would simply rock a little bit. Functionally, the gun was fine and safe.

Who gave you that horrible piece of advice?!

I played with one setup like that at the last match. It’s noticeably better than the Home Depot spring. However, I still prefer the factory spring and trigger. It’s cleaner, and you’ll shoot the same size group at 25yd or the same bill drill either way. I chased 4 different trigger kits in my original G34. APEX’d the hell out of an M&P at 2.75lbs. Then ran $350 worth of aftermarket parts in a Tanfoglio with a 2.1lb trigger as short and clean as a 1911. Compared to the Q5? I shoot them all the same. Leave the trigger alone and shoot/dryfire the gun as often as you can.

Yes. A quick spring swap dropped it down to just over 2 pounds. I shoot the stock weight just as well, and it has a crisper reset and break. Feels better at speed.

I had a double feed the first time I shot it in a match, although the ammo I was running was too long to plunk in the Walther - two reshoots on a 32 rounds stage burned through the stuff I’d loaded for this gun. I’ve been through 750 rounds or so since then without a single malfunction. It’s running great. I love the way the gun points, and for a 5lb trigger it’s exceptionally shootable.

Slide Glide lasts a lot longer than oil does on the rails and barrel. That’s the reason I like it.

Loosen the two bolts on that bracket, and lift it upward as far as it’ll go. Root around in your garage until you find something the right size to keep it up that high.

With the preface that I’m just your average A class scrub and hardly an expert, I take that route. Yes. Everything I consciously drive is from the elbows position down to to grip, and otherwise I’m only really focusing on leg stuff: staying low and using the thighs to swivel the hips on transitions. I’ve never really focused on shoulders or core or neck. I might be missing out. But I’ve never felt any soreness or tension in my neck - not even shooting 3,000 rounds in a 4 day class with Ben Stoeger.

Yes. Shoot it. You didn’t hurt anything.

Ditch the triangle and run the 2.5moa version of the Deltapoint with its insanely bright dot. I’m running the 2.5. A few buddies have the triangle and are now considering switching. With regard to backup irons? Don’t bother. Spend time in dryfire and life fire and you’ll learn to present the gun with the dot ready and waiting. Comp gun and carry gun: With the TTI basepads and the Grams follower/spring kit for a P320, I do indeed get a reloadable 23 rounds in the magazine. However, it doesn’t lock open when empty because you have to shave that tab off the follower. Our friend was right.

Then that makes sense. I find that if I see the previous squad pulling it off consistently, it lets me go into the challenging option with "just see your sights and this is cake" because I know I can do it. Without that, I tend to be cautious like you.

Agreed. Revived two months ago so definitely curent production, S&B were liked by my Tanfo roughly as much as Winchester, and didn't require a heavy hammer spring like CCI to be 100%

Why did you let the swinger pass twice while waiting for on the third shot? Firing shots one and two on a once-per-pass basis is what really helps you develop the cadence to get round #3 close to dead center. I mean I know it's becuase you've never shot at an untrappable swinger before. I set these up at my local match every change I get. "Shoot me easy as pie when I bob out from behind the barrel" swingers are boring.