MemphisMechanic

Yeah @johnbu ! I spent 12 years shooting plastic guns: I want the trigger to come back smooth & steady as your shot is about to break. I made my Tanfo too 1911ish, and that’s the biggest reason I sold it. I didn’t shoot it nearly as accurately, and learning to row it was going to train me against all my polymer carry guns.

IDPA PCC division capacity is 30 rounds unless the MD explicity states otherwise before the match.

They creep. I prefer a trigger that rolls back versus one that shatters like glass, but I know I’m the odd man out, here. I’m sure there other methods, but running a Titan hammer really gives the Tanfo a more 1911-ish feel with it’s shortened hooks.

I’ll post it here for sure. But I’m far from the only guy who has built one like this. Get yourself the lower of your choice, a KE Arms SLT or Hiperfire trigger, another JP upper... and add the stock, pistol grip, and recoil system of your choice. Simple recipe if you like your old JP.

Ok. Know that your options are a $$$ Glock ambi lower, or any old colt SMG magazine lower with a traditional AR-15 ambi mag catch installed. Colt’s SMG Magazine was specifically designed to adapt the AR platform to a 32 rd 9mm, so they placed the notch in the magazine body where the 5.56 magazine release is. I like the ergos of the Troy ambi catch if you go that route - their lefthanded button is situated perfectly for the index finger tip. But it’s backordered 3 weeks everywhere right now - I know because I ordered one from Troy on Friday for my PCC build.

Buy a Gibbz Or KE Arms lower with an ambi magazine catch and swap all of theJP components onto it, then sell the factory lower. It’s not cheap but it gets you the gun that you want!

Personally I did this with my tanfoglio and it took care of everything: Practice the hardest fastest “90% of the way to a fullblown slap” triggerpull in DA. Find the grip pressure that lets you row the trigger the hardest without moving the sights and practice DA shots coming out of the holster really agressively, like that. Then learn SA by spending the rest of your dryfire session in single action like this: You learn to work from the holster with the first drill. Then you tape the hammer in the right place so that your dead SA trigger moves the correct amount, and do dryfire El Prez and the like with lots of trigger presses. At the next match, everything will feel natural.

The only options I'm aware of are Gibbz and one other company's ambidextrous Glock lower - I do not know of anyone that makes an aftermarket Lefthanded mag release for the JP/QC10/similar Glock lowers. At all. This is precisely why I am building a Colt magazine fed PCC: Because it uses the standard AR-15 magazine release. You can simply install a Troy or Norgon left-side magazine release - I'd be running a Glock mag fed gun with a JP or QC receiver set if it wasn't for this one crucial issue!

Exactly what I do.

But gimmicks that work exceptionally well if you are precise in adjusting your shellplate’s tension with the bearing installed. Do that, and it does indeed delete the snap.

Oh. So you’re the guy who owns an Akai gun that actually runs. I knew there had to be one somewhere, but the three I’ve been around in person had me wondering.

@v1911 Every single PV load I've ever cooked up has had an SD way below 10; they're always single-digits.

That. Is stupidly obvious. Why aren’t ALL OF US doing that? Thanks, Rowdy!

Boss with a RHT body is terrific for me. As a slenderer guy than @CHA-LEE, I find the presence of the extended leg on the BOSS to be a help. Even in a deep squat it doesn’t make it’s presence known with more than a slight bit of pressure. But no matter how hard I sprint, there’s always just enough contact on the outside of the pants to delete any bounce/flop that any other design has had. We aren’t all the same shape and we don’t move or bend quite the same way. People will be drawn to different brands of gear.

Another batch: 125gr BBI TC 1.111” - 1.119” OAL variation 3.85gr Prima V (10 drop average) CCI #550 SP Mag primer Well worn, mixed brass Approx 65 degrees 10 rounds over the chrono through Q5 Match: 1111,1112,1113,1111,1112,1115,1113,1114,1116,1111 (At this point my eyes were bulging a little bit. I actually shot 15 rounds, but it kept rejecting duplicates of 1,111 feet per second.) Power factor: 139.2 Standard Deviation: 1.6 I then stagger-loaded a buddy’s load (147, 3.2 titegroup 132pf in this gun) into a mag with mine, and the two have an identical recoil impulse. Prima V really is softer. (Through a 4.25” M&P this same 125gr ammo clocked 132.7PF too.)

Take the gun apart and take a good look at your gas port before possibly designing loads around a gun with a partially clogged one.

@OPENB has a patriot-prepped Limited Pro and Stock 2 in the classifieds right now. I’d start there.

It’s the downside to the “50 posts before you can use the classifieds section” system. Guys like @Antny dredge up old posts and comment on them to get their post count up. Annoying, but it happens.

No one really stopped to address this question. YES. That is very solid shooting for a novice indeed! 25 hits that would have been A’s on a USPSA target, indoors with crappy lighting on the sights? Plenty of guys win matches while shooting “2 shot groups” that size at the 20-25 yard targets, if you catch my drift. It’s more than likely time to focus on moving faster and more efficiently if you want to improve at USPSA. Just revisit this skill often enough to make sure it stays sharp until you’re B or even A class, when you’ll need to tighten you accuracy up some again. Yes. Accept that all indoor range customers suck: by the time you make B class, they will be staring at you from the next lane over like you’re a god.

Recalibrate your offense-o-meter... A *lot* of us have disdain for IDPA because we spent years shooting it (8yrs for me) and we want those years back. Its out of a breath of knowledge. Not ignorance. Myself, I had two First Place SSP Master plaques from state championship matches before I got into USPSA and promptly... found myself classified at about 50% in C class. Which is par for the course - everyone has that wakeup call when they make the switch. We know what IDPA is about, and USPSA is about. And we want to play where the good shooters play.

Glad it helped! But in fairness all I did was search the forum really really well! All the info on stuff like this is here... just gotta figure out how to find it. If you want to thank someone? This idea came from @kneelingatlas, just like so many other great Tanfo/CZ posts have. Also, on my gun I had this neat feature wherein the slide wouldn’t fully drop until I released my hand from applying upward pressure to the basepad: the slide would just barely catch the back of the mag tube, and hold there until your offhand rebounded. This is helpful because it prevents that wonderful issue that can happen with auto-forwarding guns that have weak magazine springs: The slide drops when you drive a magazine home but magically does not chamber a round. That happens because the rounds bounce downward inside the tube if your slam it in really hard with a weak magazine spring, and the top round isn’t stripped because it hasn’t bounced back to the top of the magazine before the slide runs forward. Stronger mag springs solve this issue in most guns. In my Tanfo, that 1/16th second of delay should also mean it never happens.

I’ll have to add these to my To Do list. Thanks for the heads up.

I started all-glock (26/19/34) Bought a variety of different guns. Shot a shield and 9L for M&P carry/comp for a while. Then shot a Tanfo Stock 3 for most of 2017 in matches. I wanted to streamline too. Sold Tanfo, 34, and M&P 9L... and now I have a Walther PPS, Walther 4” PPQ, and a Q5 Match. I really like how much better it feels to carry something ergonomically identical to the gun I put all that dryfire time into. I’m Walther from top to bottom and happy with it. (I have always bought my centerfire guns in 9mm only.)

Definitely makes more sense when there’s a single target visible from the start and you can shoulder the stock while moving to the next one, than it does in a classifier.

They hold up much better than solomon’s too. I wear a similar trail shoe sometimes, if it’s really dry. Typically I wear a full-blown cleat with an all rubber sole. Avoid the hard plastic or metal spikes,and cleats work better in gravel than solomon’s by a wide margin. They won’t break your neck on wet wood surfaces, either. I use a UA cleat similar to these: https://m.dickssportinggoods.com/p/under-armour-mens-leadoff-rm-baseball-cleats-16uarmldfflwrmblkrbb/16uarmldfflwrmblkrbb Just got to Academy or Dicks or whomever is local, and pick the cleat with the softest rubber spikes and the most supportive insole.