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Cylinder Chamfering on a Revolver


rr4406pak

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I'll try a get a photo up of a 38 super cylinder I did awhile back. The Brownells cutter would not touch the melonite finish on the super cylinder. so it was a Dremel job. Pleased with it. As Carmoney mentioned earlier don't hog into the extractor leg ends as this is where the cylinder is driven from. If you take too much metal off the ex arm ends you can wind up with too much play and that can lead into timing problems.

Pk

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  • 6 years later...

Here is my chamfer job on my very dirty 610. I had my done by my gunsmith first and then took the Dremel too it with a conical dimond bit free hand. It is agressive but it does not go below the case web. I have done my other 610 the same as well as a few 625's for friends. I can get deeper and closer to the ratchet than you can with a cutter.

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Edited by snertley
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Be careful getting too aggressive--remember the cylinder is turned by the hand pushing on the extractor ratchet lugs. You can goof up the timing if you take away too much of the engagement between the cylinder and the extractor star points.

No need to get carried away with it. My own competition guns have substantially less chamfer than what is shown in some of the photos here.

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At first, I thought I was going to need an aggressive chamfer on my 627 vcomp. I was surprised how much simply breaking sharp edges with a cylindrical stone around the chamber mouths helped. I'm leaving it alone for the time being. I'll revisit it after nationals.

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I know it needs to be cleaned but I did my 929 with a Dremel and 1/2" ball mill. Take my word for it, the cuts are smooooooth.. Just enough to get a chamfer on there and with RN loads fine... No real need to go more...

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Edited by NoSteel
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  • 8 years later...
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