Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'slide'.
Found 13 results
-
Propaganda Slide-Glide Standard (Red) is for centerfire semi-automatic firearms in temperatures above 60°F. Slide-Glide Lite (Green) is for rimfire and centerfire firearms in temperatures above 30°F. Slide-Glide is a uniquely formulated lubricant that improves reliability and protects all firearms from wear. And it softens "felt recoil" in semi-autos. Slide-Glide's extreme-pressure compound prevents wear from contaminants. And it's stringy, so it stays where you put it until you it until you wipe it off. Most unburned powder residues are lubricating in nature (graphite) so they do not adversely affect the performance of the grease. Slide-Glide does not cause gunk-up as some lubricants will when contaminated with unburned power residue. Review: https://brianenos.com/slide-glide-firearm-lubricant-review-duane-thomas/ Purchase: https://brianenos.com/product-category/slide-glide/ Other Cool Videos: See below. Cleaning Before First Application: Thoroughly dean and dry your firearm. Subsequent Applications: Wipe it off with a paper towel and clean your firearm as necessary. Finish by thoroughly wiping with a shop towel, forcing the towel into sharp corners with a small screwdriver or stiff brush. Application Pistols (All Action Types). Coat all contact areas: Frame and slide rails, upper and lower barrel locking lugs and bushing, upper locking lugs of slide, recoil spring, guide rod, inside of the reverse plug. Assemble, cycle the slide, and wipe off excess. Experiment - the more you apply the slicker and "softer" your pistol will feel. Rifles (Bolt- & Lever-Action). Apply to the lever action or bolt's contact areas. Rifles & Shotguns (Pump & Semi-auto). Apply to the recoil spring, bolt, and bolt carrier's contact areas. Hammer & Sear (All Firearms). Apply to pins, sear nose, and hammer hook. Revolvers (Single- & Double-Action). Apply to the internal action parts, springs, and crane/frame contact area. Lube the cylinder and yoke with a lightweight oil. For reliable function in semi-autos below 30°F, blend Slide-Glide with any gun oil. Videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_CSSiTRvi8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_NSyhlPqmA ... and finally, the video that brought me here was by a gentleman that hadn't cleaned his 1911 for 5 years. I can't find. Older gentleman, about 60yo, filming with a book case in the back ground, and all I have is a screenshot where he says his solution was using Laser-cast lead semi-wadcutters, Titegroup power, and Slide-Glide.
-
Hey guys I’m hoping for some help because I’ve never owned a 1911/2011 and I’m planning on jumping feet first and doing a build. i currently own a Glock 40 for the woods, an HK USP45 tac for home, and a 9mm target gun. I’ve been getting into 80% lowers and Cnc and I have been considering trying to replace all 3 pistols with essentially 1 2011 frame/trigger and a 9mm, 10mm, and 45 slide. Is it possible to interchange slides like this? Are the magazines all the same size? any help would be greatly appreciated, it’s hard to find info online and I really am jumping into This blind.
-
The slide on my primary Limited gun has developed a crack of sorts. Since the slide is finished with Cerakote Elite and a Gun Candy top coat, I'm not sure if the crack is in the finish or in the slide itself. I can't see or feel (using cleaning picks, for instance) the crack on the inside of the slide or in slide wall/ejection port. Is there a way to tell if the slide is cracked/cracking or if this is limited to the finish? If the slide is cracking, is it safe to continue to shoot it? How many 170 PF rounds could you put through a slide that is cracking? Also, if it is cracking, what are my options? Can I replace just the slide? Do I need to replace the slide and barrel together? I've looked into barrels and have an idea of the fitting required for a bull barrel, but can't find a lot online about fitting a new slide to an existing frame. Most slide fitting info if for fitting a slide and frame to each other during initial building. If it matters, I would have to fit everything by hand - I don't have access to machining or milling equipment. I really like this pistol and can't afford to buy another one (unless I can find a used one for sale somewhere). With USPSA Nationals coming up in a couple of months, I'm trying to figure out what's up and what my options are...
-
I am new-ish to the tanfo platform and I am having great success with it. Shot with a Shadow 2 most of this season and I am currently shooting the Tanfo. I was able to put 600 rounds in 3 range visit and I am blown away by the difference in between the two platforms, very happy with the Stock 2. I have purchased a few shock buffers for this pistol, and I tried it with and with out and I could not notice any difference in felt recoil, however, the action becomes stiffer when the buffer is in, like if there was less wiggle room between the barrel and the slide when out of battery and it takes more effort to rack the slide. The gun was used for about 200 rounds with a buffer with no ill effects, however, when operated by hand I can feel it is tighter. Wondering if any of you has any first hand experience with these buffers. I am thinking that they might be a gimmick and might as well keep them out.
-
Ok gents to solve a debate that I've read before but just happened to have the tools to solve. The difference in weight between an open CK Arms Hardcore, and CK Arms Thunder, slides. And I threw my STI DVC limited in for fun. Here is what I got: Hardcore: 11.4oz 326g Thunder: 11.2oz 319g DVC-L: 12.3oz 353g All of these are 9mm, not that it would matter, measured on the same scale. Same day/time. These slides were not stripped so they had firing pins/block, extractor etc. Installed. So as equal as I could easily make it. And excuse me if my grams to oz isn't exact I just read the scale.
-
We just bought a brand new Stock II and the slide does not fit flush with the back of the rail, it hangs over the back a bit. We have a lot of cheaper guns that fit perfectly there and are a bit disappointed that the money these things cost that the fit is so off. 2nd is the markings on the rear right side of the slide just below and behind the rear sight. I have searched the web all morning trying to find an explanation or closer photo of the same markings on other guns and can't find anything. A few that I can see it looks like something recognizable. On ours it is like somebody took a tiny punch and obliterated whatever it was supposed to be. I feel almost like it is a way of denoting a "second". Maybe that is a quality mark and the seconds (like this one with the slide that does not appear to fit right) get the mark defaced. The Stock II on the slide is also in a bold all caps engraving, I assume it is a newer model style? It has FT-IT 2016 above the right grip. Anyone know what the deal is here? What the mark is and if the poor fit on the slide is "normal" for a gun of this caliber?
-
So I just got a new to me (used) STI Apeiro .40. When racking the slide by hand, at the rearmost 1/8" of travel, you can feel a tight spot, then the slide makes it past and stops at the end of travel, then when riding the slide forward, you can feel the same tight spot. Lock up seems to be perfectly fine, but this still bugged me. After about 3 days of racking my brain, I think I figured out what it is! For some reason there are two small protrusions on the inside surfaces of the slide rails. Each time these protrusions align with my guide rod head, they rub, then make it past, then rub on the way back forward. (see pictures attached) My first thought is just to take the dremmel and smooth out these bumps, then polish up the rails on the slide and frame to make sure there are no additional burrs. My question to you all is, should doing this cause me any problems? Secondly, why would these bumps be there? Have you seen them before? And lastly, is this anything STI would do about on a used gun, or is on me? Not sure what their lifetime warranty transfer policy is... Honestly I'm pretty comfortable doing this stuff myself, but if STI would still deal with it on their dime, I may be inclined to let them. Thanks!
-
Unfortunately I found a crack in my STI slide after my last practice. I am going to contact STI about warrenty but is there anything interesting about the crack location that you guys notice. I have never had a cracked slide before nor researched them. no shock buff, 9 major, 8 lb spring and 17 lb main spring
-
Wondering if there are those out there that have an understanding of slide warranties between the different brands. I am posting this in the Open section as it seems like slides on open guns are correct fairly often, and this could be a living resource to those putting new guns or top ends together, From my limited understanding STI will warranty a cracked slide as long as it has not been cut to under 10 ounces and the cus are not what caused the crack. Can anyone confirm this? Also what are the warranties on CK arms, Caspian, etc? Will they cover the slides under the same circumstances? Finally are there ways, besides logos, that a manufacturer can identify their own slide for warranty work. Thanks all!! Edit: If you have a slide that has cracked. Please tell us where the crack was and if it was deemed by the manufacturer to be the result of slide lightening and therefore not warrantied. Pictures are great if anyone has those to accompany their posts.
-
Dear folks, I own a 9mm M&P Pro 5" and wish to ask if a .40S&W barrel and slide combination would run smoothly and reliably on it for competition use (given such variables as the extractor). Any inputs would be welcome - thanks.
-
Greetings, I would like to share pictures of rear internal slide lightening cuts using the plunge cut method. Early Colt Gold Cup and Commander slides use a side mill cut which doesn't remove as much material compared to plunge cut. Weight reduction is 30 grams. The theory behind this is that the less weight on the slide that travels over the wrist, the less muzzle flip. Used in combination with a tungsten sleeved barrel, which lightens the front of the slide, you have a faster cycling slide. Second picture shows a Colt Commander slide on the left. Extractors are installed in both slides.
-
Why don't Limited shooters want the last round to lock back the slide? I'm a Production shooter thinking about moving up to Limited division. It seems natural to want the slide to lock back when it's empty. -
I recently bought my first open gun which is a 38 super with 4 port hybrid barrel and large unknown comp. I am considering converting it to 9mm major. Here are some barrel/comp options I am considering. 1. Schuemann hyrid no ports with Ti comp. Maybe Bedell 7 port or Cheely 4 port. 2. STI Trubor T2 3. STI Trubor with Thundercomp SX from Brazos 4. Bull barrel with Ti comp. My slide is a Caspian with accu rails and is basically stock with hybrid cutout. I would like to add more slide cuts to reduce slide weight. Is there any downside to not using another hybrid barrel with this slide?
