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Do You Sort By Headstamp?


jeff89

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I know that the benchrest crowd does this and they feel that it is very important. But for action pistol type matches does it really mattter? I can't see a difference in my groups when I sort brass vs unsorted. Or course I may just not be good enough for it to matter... :(

Jeff

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I sort my brass to remove problem brass (like A-Merc and a few others). After doing that, every loaded round for a match must pass through my gauge. The rounds that do not pass the "gauge test" go to a practice session and never see my reloading bench again.

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There are a few reasons to sort pistol brass...

It resizes more consistently so you don't have to vary your lever effort and the powder drops more consistently and the overall length is more consistent.

Its primer pockets are more consistent and you don't have to vary your lever effort and the primers seat more consistently.

It has a more consistent length so the case mouth bell you give it, and the un-belling (aka crimp) you give it are consistent.

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I do not sort except to pull things like Amerc, but that is for 45. If I were loading something higher pressure, I might be more picky. Would the poll results be differerent if the poll were split by caliber?

I DO sort 223 for rifle.

Lee

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It really depends on how finicky your guns are. My .40 will digest about anything so if I can load it, I can shoot it. Never even look at headstamp.

.45 is very little problem. Just remove the Blazers and go.

For .38 super though it is a different story. I shoot only one brand of brass and I know how many times it's been shot. The gun and the load are just too finicky.

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There are a few reasons to sort pistol brass...

It resizes more consistently so you don't have to vary your lever effort and the powder drops more consistently and the overall length is more consistent.

Its primer pockets are more consistent and you don't have to vary your lever effort and the primers seat more consistently.

It has a more consistent length so the case mouth bell you give it, and the un-belling (aka crimp) you give it are consistent.

Sounds like you need a 1050 :)

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9x19, no way. 9x23, 9 Supercomp, 38 Supercomp, for sure. I don't use the 9x23, and keep the 9 and 38 Supercomp seperate. And since Starline is the only place that makes 9 Supercomp and about the only one for 38 Supercomp in wide spread use.........

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I only sort to get rid of the garbage; CCI, Wolf, Amerc, split cases. I am not convinced that sorting brass will have that great of an effect on my shooting ability or accuracy. There are simply too many variable involved; crimp, OAL, bullet type, powder used, etc. that can also have an effect. I can't justify, for me, all the sorting and organizing of the various head stamps. I shoot and reload, because it is a hobby that I enjoy. I don't need "SOMETHING ELSE" to do with yields limited value to me, I have enough of those activities everyday.

My 02

MGK

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9mm minor, not a chance. I have had no problems thus far in the 3 months and 6K rounds I've loaded. I did do a test by sorting out two loaded batches of prevalent headstamps in my loaded rounds and at 25yards there was a POI difference and one grouped nicer, but both fell into minute of steel plate. I plan on sorting if I ever start stuffing .38Super or .45 for bullseye.

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No sorting for me, since most of the local shooters use the same brass. Heck! I counted and distributed the last batch of .38 Supercomp that came in. Just for the record, 5,000 rounds of brass is a lot to count. Didn't have to count the 9 Supercomp, but did bring it home and distribute as required.

Liota

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I just sort out the trash.

When I first started loading I went through this and decided to do a little study. I loaded up a bunch then sorted out the major types in my pile of range brass. Typically S&B, WW, PMC.

I then fired from a sand bag 25 rounds of each type (full size Kimber stainless target). I also mixed up batches of 25 rounds randomly and fired them.

The net is that I couldn't tell any difference in group size. I was shooting 15 yds and getting clover leaf holes - about 3/4 - 1 inch, which is much better than I can do free hand.

Net is that I sort the trash (steel, AL, cracked, distorted) and load it up. I pick up range brass and fire it until it breaks. I load to light pressures and I have some brass that is at about 25 loadings. I can tell the mouths are starting to get brittle from so much working.

BTW I do use a Lee FCD. I decap then tumble (cleans the primer pockets). I use a uni-decapper so I don't scratch a sizing die with dirty brass.

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No sorting for me. The shellplate sorts out the rimmed Super and I'll even mix Supercomp and TJ for practice. I do mark my brass to make retrieval from amongst a heap of 9mm easier, but I have no problem snarfing up somebody elses abandoned TJ or SC.

For cracked cases, try this-- jingle a handful of uncracked cases, then drop in a cracked case and re-jingle. If the crack is the least bit large, I can easily hear the difference.

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I do sort my brass, both .45 and .38 Super.

All my loaded ammo ends up in the styrofoam trays from factory ammo where it's then marked. Afer that it goes into gallon containers according to headstamp.

My main reason for the .45 sorting is the different case tension from the different brands of brass. I mainly want to get the brass with poor case tension separated (R-P, Speer, CBC, etc). Those that I have a lot of get their own gallon container (or more), otherwise it goes into an "A quality" or "B quality" container.

While I will always sort "A quality" from "B quality" cases, the rest of the sorting is just a personal preference that could be skipped with no ill effect.

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I don't sort for .45 ACP but do throw away problem brass if I see it even after it has been loaded. For 38 Super I sort nickle vs brass just because it is easy to see the difference. I am not good enough yet for it to matter.

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