jp trigger setup

[david.bergen]

Hi everybody,

After an awfull long wait I finally have my JP trigger. (competition trigger, yellow springs, speed hammer and oversize trigger pins)

I installed it per the instructions provided, I have a fairly light trigger but it isn't as crisp as I like.

I turned the engagement screw until it released the hammer and then turned a half turn back.

When I test the trigger is has creep before it relases the hammer. When you look at the hammer you actually see it move when you pull the trigger a bit.

I can eliminate the hammer movement and the creep if I adjust the screw less then the half turn back. The less I turn the screw the crisper the trigger becomes. How low can one go and still have a durable , save trigger?

Thanks,

David

[M ammo]

Hi everybody,

After an awfull long wait I finally have my JP trigger. (competition trigger, yellow springs, speed hammer and oversize trigger pins)

I installed it per the instructions provided, I have a fairly light trigger but it isn't as crisp as I like.

I turned the engagement screw until it released the hammer and then turned a half turn back.

When I test the trigger is has creep before it relases the hammer. When you look at the hammer you actually see it move when you pull the trigger a bit.

I can eliminate the hammer movement and the creep if I adjust the screw less then the half turn back. The less I turn the screw the crisper the trigger becomes. How low can one go and still have a durable , save trigger?

Thanks,

David

I can eliminate the hammer movement and the creep if I adjust the screw less then the half turn back. The less I turn the screw the crisper the trigger becomes. How low can one go and still have a durable , save trigger?

Thanks,

David

I think you have answered your own question. No way to tell anything on the forum hard to tell how long anything will last.

It is kind of like buying a par of shoes, I can tell you what to buy I can’t tell you if they fit and feel good on your feet. Only you can tell that…..

Anything JP Enterprises is Top quality so you are on the right track.. re-watch the video and make your adjustments as needed.

Jim M ammo

[TRUBL]

As I used to work at JP......the very first question I asked was "did you read the instructions and/or watch the video?" They will be your best first and help you set that trigger up the very best it can be.

If you don't have the video or instructions, I believe that John did a REALLY smart thing and actually put both on his website.

Personally.....us guys will never read the instructions, but hey, a video??....absolutely.

Some guys have installed their triggers with the video in their computer or DVD player....playingit, stopping it, reviewing it as needed step by step.

Edited July 11, 2009 by TRUBL

[madmike]

When you get it installed and adjusted correctly, there should be no creep and a very crisp break. At least that's been my experience, but I had JP install mine (not brave enough to do it myself on my first AR!)

[david.bergen]

As I used to work at JP......the very first question I asked was "did you read the instructions and/or watch the video?" They will be your best first and help you set that trigger up the very best it can be.

If you don't have the video or instructions, I believe that John did a REALLY smart thing and actually put both on his website.

Personally.....us guys will never read the instructions, but hey, a video??....absolutely.

Some guys have installed their triggers with the video in their computer or DVD player....playingit, stopping it, reviewing it as needed step by step.

Yes I have followed the instruction and looked at the dvd. Here they tell to turn the screw untill the hammer falls (do it a few times so you know the exact setting) and then turn the screw a half turn back so you have a save sear engagement. If I do it that way I feel creep on the trigger.

I can use a less than half turn and the trigger becomes much better , but I don't know if it's still save/durable.

I am used to finely tuned rifle triggers so maybe I am wanting to much.

David

I live in Belgium so having JP install the trigger is no option

[larry cazes]

I dont think crisp and light is asking too much of this trigger. Mine is as nice as any of my bolt guns. Unfortunately it was factory installed.

[mike_pinto]

David, unfortunately the only way to know if it will be safe in your lower is to try it. Worst case, it follows and empties your magazine. Adjust it and make sure it resets and try it out, and then loc-tite the snot out of it. I did that with one and used a few 3 round magazines to be safe. Ended up about a half turn shy of release and never went auto.

Mike

[pjb45]

When my friend installed my JP, we took my laptop into the garage and did the play, stop, reverse and play again routine. I got a smoking trigger. Knowing what we know now, I could have gone with a lighter pull. The DVD was excellent. It forced us to slow down, we tested everything, took it apart and put it back together before we did any loctite. JP rocks!

[mike cyrwus]

Brand of lower?

have you lubed the engagement surfaces?

[david.bergen]

The lower is a German milled billet receiver.

I tried moly lube on the trigger but that didn't help.

[TRUBL]

First off.....let me say, you will Always have creep in a AR15 mechanical trigger. What we are talking about here is how much creep is too much? The 1/2 turn backing off on the hammer release amounts to about .27mm (.011") travel at the screw, which is approximately how much the trigger needs to do down before the hammer falls. At the finger, it may be about .3mm to .35mm of movement rearward. That is normal.....everyone that follows the instructions will have that. JP may install them very close to that, and at most maybe 85 to 90% of those numbers. (Not sure on that any more, so don't take it for gospel). However, even a JP installed trigger will have creep....just not much.

As far as "creep" feel.....the lighter the trigger pull, the more you will feel the creep.....but you do infact have a crisp trigger. I've not seen any JP trigger that has no creep that is set up for semi-auto (or auto) fire. Some may be a little less than others, but all have some creep; no getting around that. Things gotta move in order to hold the hammer back, reset and release.

Sorry about the metric stuff, but the original poster will appreciate it.

Tim

[david.bergen]

Tim,

That's make sense. I am used to bolt action triggers .

So if I understand correct the extra engagement is needed for a semi automatic rifle to operate savely.

I only notice it when I am shooting groups (load developement.) When installing I followed the guidelines so the trigger will probably be ok.

I'll check he dimension and make sure (thanks for the metric version)

David

[TRUBL]

Tim,

That's make sense. I am used to bolt action triggers .

So if I understand correct the extra engagement is needed for a semi automatic rifle to operate savely.

I only notice it when I am shooting groups (load developement.) When installing I followed the guidelines so the trigger will probably be ok.

I'll check he dimension and make sure (thanks for the metric version)

David

You would be correct....when the gun goes bang and you are still holding on the trigger. The hammer is caught by the disconnector, when you let go of the trigger and it moves forawd....the disconnector releases and the trigger sear better be in a position to catch the hammer sear or you may get another bang.

Even most bolt actions will have some creep (or as I reallke to say "take up").....it's just that they can live with a lot less of it.

Tim

[olp73]

Tim,

That's make sense. I am used to bolt action triggers .

So if I understand correct the extra engagement is needed for a semi automatic rifle to operate savely.

I only notice it when I am shooting groups (load developement.) When installing I followed the guidelines so the trigger will probably be ok.

I'll check he dimension and make sure (thanks for the metric version)

David

You would be correct....when the gun goes bang and you are still holding on the trigger. The hammer is caught by the disconnector, when you let go of the trigger and it moves forawd....the disconnector releases and the trigger sear better be in a position to catch the hammer sear or you may get another bang.

Even most bolt actions will have some creep (or as I reallke to say "take up").....it's just that they can live with a lot less of it.

Tim

I do have creep in my JP trigger and it is not the kind that is mentioned above. I can feel a distinct movement in he trigger until it stops and from there it has a crisp feel. The way I want it to be.

I bought the rifle with the trigger installed. The setscrews are loctited in place so I guess I have to loosen them up to do the adjustments allover again?

The rifle is new. Can you expect the trigger to improve after some time? Any good suggestions on how to loosen red loctite on really small screws?

Edited April 18, 2010 by olp73

[mpeltier]

I do have creep in my JP trigger and it is not the kind that is mentioned above. I can feel a distinct movement in he trigger until it stops and from there it has a crisp feel. The way I want it to be.

I bought the rifle with the trigger installed. The setscrews are loctited in place so I guess I have to loosen them up to do the adjustments allover again?

The rifle is new. Can you expect the trigger to improve after some time? Any good suggestions on how to loosen red loctite on really small screws?

There are two ways to install the trigger. The easy way is to adjust the trigger to the safety, eliminating the need to file down the back tang on the trigger. The other method requires trial and error of the safety, filing the back of the triggers tang (after fitting the break and overtravel adjustments) until proper safety operation is achieved. Your trigger may have been fitted the easy way which results in a trigger that is good but not optimum.

Heat will loosen the screws. A good industrial heat gun is the safest bet. Thats what i use. A real good hair dryer may work. If you do the install over again make sure you get a copy of JP's instructions if you did not get a set with that new rifle.

Edited April 19, 2010 by mpeltier

[olp73]

Heat will loosen the screws. A good industrial heat gun is the safest bet. Thats what i use. A real good hair dryer may work. If you do the install over again make sure you get a copy of JP's instructions if you did not get a set with that new rifle

The idea was to just back off the sear engagement screw till the hammer falls, then tighten 1/2 a turn and see if the creep is still there. nothing more. I have seen the video on the net. Is this a good strategy?

Edited April 19, 2010 by olp73

[mpeltier]

Heat will loosen the screws. A good industrial heat gun is the safest bet. Thats what i use. A real good hair dryer may work. If you do the install over again make sure you get a copy of JP's instructions if you did not get a set with that new rifle

The idea was to just back off the sear engagement screw till the hammer falls, then tighten 1/2 a turn and see if the creep is still there. nothing more. I have seen the video on the net. Is this a good strategy?

No you can't do just that. you will need to do it completely by the instructions or you should leave it alone. Changing those screws and not doing the rest of the job will change either the safety operation or the disconector timing (or possibly both).

[spd522]

Most of my guns have JP trigger systems in them. Some are a bit better than others

but they are not all in the same brand of lowers either.

When shooting for groups off the Lead Sled, I can feel every bit of take up

and imperfection. When shooting in a match, I don't feel any of it.

What I have with a JP are safe and reliable triggers that are about right for me and the

way I shoot.

I had one lower with a JARD system in it. It has less takeup and much lighter pull and reset than the JP.

It's also more difficult to adjust. But it's actually too light for me for a match gun.

Craig

[el pres]

Follow the online video exactly and you will be fine. You will feel a very small amount of "take up"(not creep) but this is fine and you will not notice any of it in a match.

Start playing with the adjustments to lighten the feel and you'll quickly have a two round burst trigger at the least. Of coarse it will only double when "it" feels like, usually during a stage ..

[DMAC]

When you get it installed and adjusted correctly, there should be no creep and a very crisp break. At least that's been my experience, but I had JP install mine (not brave enough to do it myself on my first AR!)

+5 for all of my JP Triggers

[kamikaze1a]

Anyone know if the JP sear is case hardened or fully hardened? iirc, most factory triggers are case hardened and removal of any metal will result in accelerated wear on the sear...

[benny hill]

I have put in about 230 jp triggers. Correct way is to put in trigger & hammer only. Set the overtravel at 1/2 turn & sear engagement @ 1/2 turn. I mill .020 off the top of the trigger so safty will engage. Then take disc. & remove metal from the hook untill it just touches hammer in cocked postition when you push hammer down & up. I put about 10# pressure on hammer & pull trigger & burnish the fit. I end up with a great creep free break at about 2 3/4 lb. that will last.