Wildkow Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Thanks Alan Other than the ring indexer cam and tension what other ways are there to adjust the position of the shellplate? I ask because mine seems to index to far (i.e. the primer seater rod is closer to the right edge of the shellplate. If I could I would just move the cam back towards the front (is that right?) so that it wouldn't index the plate as far but I have it moved as far back as possible. All your help in this regard is very much appreciated. I'll be calling Dillon on Monday, but if you have a quick reply so's that I can load this weekend that would be great! Wildkow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Thanks AlanOther than the ring indexer cam and tension what other ways are there to adjust the position of the shellplate? I ask because mine seems to index to far (i.e. the primer seater rod is closer to the right edge of the shellplate. If I could I would just move the cam back towards the front (is that right?) so that it wouldn't index the plate as far but I have it moved as far back as possible. All your help in this regard is very much appreciated. I'll be calling Dillon on Monday, but if you have a quick reply so's that I can load this weekend that would be great! Wildkow *if* with the shellplate set such that the ball is fully in the hole on the underside, and the primer plunger is still off alignment, there is only one option, that is get the timing/alignment tool from Dillon and re-set it. I know of no other way to fix that problem. On my 650, the enitre head needed to be turned to allow the powder funnel to align with the case, but the primer to shellplate was perfect. And obviously, the bearing made all the difference in keeping the powder in the cases ... Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildkow Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Thanks AlanOther than the ring indexer cam and tension what other ways are there to adjust the position of the shellplate? I ask because mine seems to index to far (i.e. the primer seater rod is closer to the right edge of the shellplate. If I could I would just move the cam back towards the front (is that right?) so that it wouldn't index the plate as far but I have it moved as far back as possible. All your help in this regard is very much appreciated. I'll be calling Dillon on Monday, but if you have a quick reply so's that I can load this weekend that would be great! Wildkow *if* with the shellplate set such that the ball is fully in the hole on the underside, and the primer plunger is still off alignment, there is only one option, that is get the timing/alignment tool from Dillon and re-set it. I know of no other way to fix that problem. On my 650, the enitre head needed to be turned to allow the powder funnel to align with the case, but the primer to shellplate was perfect. And obviously, the bearing made all the difference in keeping the powder in the cases ... Alan Thanks Alan it's defintley something other than the shellplate now that I have the bearing and the xylon coated shellplate installed. At times it seems to be the primer ram catches on something and other times maybe its just me. As a white guy I have little rhythm so I'll have to work on getting a smooth cadence going with less jerk in it. Which reminds me of a saying "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast" or something like that but in all likelyhood it probably just means replacing the "jerk" pulling the handle. Since I'm sorta new at this I'm going back through all my brass and checking for a military crimp and other problems with the primer pocket, and my other handloading methods etc. etc. Wildkow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Thanks AlanOther than the ring indexer cam and tension what other ways are there to adjust the position of the shellplate? I ask because mine seems to index to far (i.e. the primer seater rod is closer to the right edge of the shellplate. If I could I would just move the cam back towards the front (is that right?) so that it wouldn't index the plate as far but I have it moved as far back as possible. All your help in this regard is very much appreciated. I'll be calling Dillon on Monday, but if you have a quick reply so's that I can load this weekend that would be great! Wildkow *if* with the shellplate set such that the ball is fully in the hole on the underside, and the primer plunger is still off alignment, there is only one option, that is get the timing/alignment tool from Dillon and re-set it. I know of no other way to fix that problem. On my 650, the enitre head needed to be turned to allow the powder funnel to align with the case, but the primer to shellplate was perfect. And obviously, the bearing made all the difference in keeping the powder in the cases ... Alan Thanks Alan it's defintley something other than the shellplate now that I have the bearing and the xylon coated shellplate installed. At times it seems to be the primer ram catches on something and other times maybe its just me. As a white guy I have little rhythm so I'll have to work on getting a smooth cadence going with less jerk in it. Which reminds me of a saying "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast" or something like that but in all likelyhood it probably just means replacing the "jerk" pulling the handle. Since I'm sorta new at this I'm going back through all my brass and checking for a military crimp and other problems with the primer pocket, and my other handloading methods etc. etc. Wildkow Specifically watch for S&B and Fed NT, S&B have undersided pockets and I have to run them thru my 600 swagger if I decide to use them. And Fed NT have crimped pockets and have to have the same... I have so few of both, that I usually just throw them aside until I get around to messing with them. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) Ypu might try loosening the two bolts that hold the primer assy to the press. There might be a little play there, enough to center the primer seating tool. If not, give the folks at Dillon a call, they have been very helpful in resolving the few problems I've had w/my 650. Edited December 7, 2009 by granderojo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antoine Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Now that I put more than 1000 rounds with this new upgrade, I think it's worthless. Sure it works perfectly when the shellplate screw is tight but it will get loose after 100 rounds making the shellplate snap again. Is there a cure for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Now that I put more than 1000 rounds with this new upgrade, I think it's worthless. Sure it works perfectly when the shellplate screw is tight but it will get loose after 100 rounds making the shellplate snap again. Is there a cure for this? You could try a dab of BLUE LocTite on the screws and wait 24hrs for it to cure properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sthone Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Now that I put more than 1000 rounds with this new upgrade, I think it's worthless. Sure it works perfectly when the shellplate screw is tight but it will get loose after 100 rounds making the shellplate snap again. Is there a cure for this? Isn't the shell plate setscrew suppose to keep the shellplate screw from loosening up? -Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 Now that I put more than 1000 rounds with this new upgrade, I think it's worthless. Sure it works perfectly when the shellplate screw is tight but it will get loose after 100 rounds making the shellplate snap again. Is there a cure for this? first, the large shellplate bolt is secured with a brass tipped set screw, if you haven't tightened that, then doesn't matter what you do, your shell plate will get floppy and sling powder. Second, I thot I had mentioned above that on first install, you'll have to re-tighten the shellplate bolt after 100 or so rounds, this is due to the fact that the grease that in the bearings will squeeze out from the initial install pressures and you'll have to tweak the tightness of the shellplate bolt to accomodate that. I've loaded over 1000 with mine and and it's just as good now as it was after my first re-adjustment. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macca Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Now that I put more than 1000 rounds with this new upgrade, I think it's worthless. Sure it works perfectly when the shellplate screw is tight but it will get loose after 100 rounds making the shellplate snap again. Is there a cure for this? Isn't the shell plate setscrew suppose to keep the shellplate screw from loosening up? -Steve +1 on that the setscrew.... when i originally had problems it was because I had forgotten to tighten said setscrew....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antoine Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Guys, I know about the shellplate brass tip setscrew. The shellplate bolt keep loosening up no matter how tight I torque the setscrew. This setscrew is still jammed up pretty good but it does not prevent the shellplate bolt from getting loose. Should I order these 2 parts from Dillon?!? halp!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macca Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) Guys, I know about the shellplate brass tip setscrew. The shellplate bolt keep loosening up no matter how tight I torque the setscrew. This setscrew is still jammed up pretty good but it does not prevent the shellplate bolt from getting loose. Should I order these 2 parts from Dillon?!? halp!! this sounds odd to me and more like the shellplate bolt was incorrectly tensioned to begin with because from my experience if the setscrew is loose or did loosen, then the shellplate bolt would gradually tighten down on the shellplate with each turn of the handle until the shellplate jams, and the ring indexer fails to index and you risk breaking the ring indexer.....I know this because i forgot my setscrew....loaded a few hundred and yep...jammed the shellplate and broke a ring indexer. If the setscrew is tight against the shellplate bolt I can't imagine it loosening (if it is tight) Is the shellplate bolt shaft damaged? is the tip of the setscrew looking worn and damaged? If they are then its probably worth replacing them....a quick look should tell you. I should also add.....smooth technique in operating the machine is half the battle...specially with a 9mm or similar.....the shellplate fix for me only covers part of the problem...if you knock the machine, run it inconsistently or if your primer seater is out alignment even it can spring up and knock the shell against the shellplate and rattle everything.... My advice is check the parts...if worn out replace, then carefully run through slowly one station at a time and examine everything....its a fiddly pain in the ### but once its right its worth it. Edited December 14, 2009 by Macca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antoine Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 I will definetly inspect these and let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papa Joe Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 I just received the bearing and washers the other day. Installed it in a couple of minutes and WOW, what a difference. This Forum is FULL of endless pieces of information. This totally eliminated the powder popping out of the case when indexing to the next stage. THANKS AGAIN! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 (edited) Sorry about resurrecting this thread. I just now got around to trying this mod. What I discovered was that when I tightened the center bolt down enough to prevent the shell plate from snapping (with the bearing and washers installed), there was noticeable friction and a grinding feeling between the shellplate and the ball bearing. I know it was the ball bearing and not something else because I removed the ball bearing and the friction/grinding feeling went away. And if I backed off on the center bolt tightness until the friction/grinding feeling went away, then the shell plate started to snap (even with the bearing and washers installed). So, to solve both problems I decided to also cut one coil off the spring under the ball bearing. This in conjunction with the bearing and washers is giving me a nice, low riding, shell plate that doesn't snap. Not only is this going to eliminate the snap, but I think my OAL variances (from case to case) will go away as well. Thanks for the info. Darren [edited to fix typo] Edited September 10, 2010 by ExtremeShot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planenut Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 What do you guys use to cut the spring with? My dikes were not making much progress so I stopped and just installed the bearing kit. I would still like to cut a half coil off the spring and see if I can get it a little less snappy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirveyr Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 What do you guys use to cut the spring with? I just use a side cutter pliers...while holding everything inside a plastic baggie. I learned to cut all springs using this method... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Used side cutters on my spring, too. Cut it like butter... Ordered up two sets - since they're cheap and I have to pay ground shipping, might as well have a spare on hand, right? We'll see if this can stop any powder flinging using N105 in SuperComp. That'll be a definitive test, right there, my friends! Also, ordered these... 97431A310 - 5/16" E-clip for the decapping pin on a Dillon sizer die. My .38 Super die keeps breaking them, and ordering from Dillon, while free, just gets to be a bit much. At Home Depot, these things are something like $.20/ea. At McMasters, $5 for 100! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Used side cutters on my spring, too. Cut it like butter... Ordered up two sets - since they're cheap and I have to pay ground shipping, might as well have a spare on hand, right? We'll see if this can stop any powder flinging using N105 in SuperComp. That'll be a definitive test, right there, my friends! Also, ordered these... 97431A310 - 5/16" E-clip for the decapping pin on a Dillon sizer die. My .38 Super die keeps breaking them, and ordering from Dillon, while free, just gets to be a bit much. At Home Depot, these things are something like $.20/ea. At McMasters, $5 for 100! David I just used 1 washer on top to avoid the ejector spring issue. The shell plate is smooth and flat what the heck does the bottom washer do, jacks your ejector spring up. It works for Major 9 and the cases are plenty too full, and did I mention Bullet Feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentG Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 Parts inbound. This thread should be tacked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Alan this is a wonderfully elegant solution! My girll bought me a 650 for Christmas and after I got it set up I discovered this issue. "Where to turn?", I asked my self and the answer was clear, Brian's joint! I ordered my parts from Granger: Berring 4XFN2 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INA-Thrust-Bearing-4XFN2 Washer 4XFP9 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INA-Thrust-Washer-4XFP9?BaseItem=4XFN2 Cut a coil off the detent ball spring and bingo, smooth as silk. Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kool Aid Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 The shell plate on my new 650 was snapping and spilling powder. Riding the shell plate with my finger solved the problem, but it slowed me down and increased hand fatique. I snipped the spring while the bearings and washers were in the mail, which eliminated most of the snapping of the shell plate. After later installing the bearing and washers and loading 500 rounds of 9mm, there was no spillage of powder on the shell plate of my 650. Great mod, AA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcinnick Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 How much did you snip. I have seen anywhere from 1/2 a coil to 3 coils recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 How much did you snip. I have seen anywhere from 1/2 a coil to 3 coils recommended. If you snip too little, you can always snip more. Hard to go the other way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 I wouldn't recommend cutting off more than one coil. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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