Fix for the snapping shellplate on a 650

[Woodys556]

Just ordered my bearings and washers for 3 650's. I can wait. been spilling .40 load powder for a LONG time. I am also hoping this addresses my Mr. Bulet Feeder bullet typing issues. on my 45 rig I am tipping about one out of every 25 or 30 bullets. I just got that machine set up so I haven't tweeked it fully yet. The Feeder on the 40 rig ROCKS!

Now if I can just get the Mr. Bullet Feeder and the primer issues with my new 1050 worked out, I will be a loading fool.

BTW This is my first day on this forum and second post. I am an FFL in a one man shop in KY and I load 12 and 20 ga on a pair of PW 900's, metalic on a single 550, 3 650's and a brand new bouncing baby 1050 for the 223 devouring toys.

As soon as I get my reloading room neatened up I will post pics. it looks like Moore, OK, right now.

[JPM]

I purchased a new 650 last week, I'm very impressed with it compared to the Hornady Ammo Plant that I had owned but sold within 3 months, reloading takes some mechanical skills but the Hornady constantly required tweaking.

I am experiencing this hard shell plate indexing and powder bouncing out of cases as well, I'm not rushing the process by any means. Curious as to why Dillon hasn't resolved this issue? This tip was posted back in 2009, one would think they would have taken note and corrected this by now lol. Other then that my XL-650 is perfect!

JPM

[Woodys556]

I just installed my parts from McMaster Carr. OH MY GOD what a difference. This is a great mod.

I always wonder if these companies like Mcmaster and Fastenal who have these obscure items, when they have a small rush on the items because of a tip on an online forum, if they ever wonder just what the hell is going on....?

Anyway IT WORKS and works great, no more powder dancing!!!

Oh BTW When I installed mine I used a fair amount of STOS on the bearings. Great stuff.

Edited May 24, 2013 by Woodys556

[JPM]

A fine rubber oring between the shell plate and bolt solved my problems today, loaded up 200 9mm rounds with no issue whatsoever.

[partyboy424]

I did the needle bearing upgrade and clipped the ball detent spring last month. Have since pumped out over 2,000 rounds with very minimal spillage. I used to have to clean the press every couple thousand or it would start to run like my Pro 1000. Right now it's running better than when I set it up.

[diablodawg]

Curious as to why Dillon hasn't resolved this issue? This tip was posted back in 2009, one would think they would have taken note and corrected this by now lol.

Because Dillon is too busy raking in boatloads of cash to fix glaring design flaws or hire more customer service reps. Sadly. I've done all the 'fixes' but still spill powder all over when reloading .308.

[TheRef]

Just curious how many have had to modify the ejector wire to get the mod with the bearing and washers to work. I order the parts from McMaster-Carr and sure enough they stop the snapping. However, the ejector wire is now preventing the case insert slide from completely aligning the case with the station 1 die. I am trying to figure out if others are bending the ejector wire to the clear the case insert slide to the left or if they are bending the tip down so that it fits deeper in the platform hole. I have tried both and can't seem to get it "just right". For those that have had to bend the ejector wire, is it a significant bend (relatively speaking) or just a very slight, light-handed tweak?

[partyboy424]

I had to bend it down only a little because the completed rounds were getting stuck and popping it out of the hole every tenth round or so at ejection. Never had any problems related to station one though.

[Bob DuBois]

Did this when I saw the post a year or so back, very pleased with results and I did bend the wire just a little. I've told several other shooters about this fix good idea.

[sarelwagner]

Here is what I did and why.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICnJojitpgg

Thing is to my reckoning to prevent the shell plate from snapping, we need some sort of friction. I wanted a modification that did not require disassembly nor be permanent. It must also be cheap and easily reversible. So I bent the ejector wire end that wraps the bolt down to almost rub against the plate. Covered it with 3 layers of heat shrink sleeving and shrunk it. See the video for the result. Rgrds Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Edited January 15, 2014 by Flexmoney
formatting

[Paull12]

I went on line to McMasters and ordered the two washers and needle bearing as described below. I had it in two days!! And all for <$10.00! I installed it as described and it seems to work well. Definitiely reduces the snap to the next station movement that causes the powder to jump out of the casing. I will test it more today when I reload another few hundred rounds to see how well it holds up but it definitely looks good so far. Thanks for the fix!!

[Roons]

I ordered the McMasters items and it works great! No more powder spillage. I just installed the top washer with the bearing to keep the ejector wire from binding up. No issues.

[Sarge]

I went on line to McMasters and ordered the two washers and needle bearing as described below. I had it in two days!! And all for <$10.00! I installed it as described and it seems to work well. Definitiely reduces the snap to the next station movement that causes the powder to jump out of the casing. I will test it more today when I reload another few hundred rounds to see how well it holds up but it definitely looks good so far. Thanks for the fix!!

The snap should not only be reduced, it should be gone if applied correctly. The trick is to tighten the shellplate tighter than normal. The bearing lets you tighten it up yet keep moving freely. What works for me is to have the plate tight enough that it takes some effort to turn it by hand. It should not be anywhere near as loose as it is without the bearing.

[Boxerglocker]

Curious as to why Dillon hasn't resolved this issue? This tip was posted back in 2009, one would think they would have taken note and corrected this by now lol.

Because Dillon is too busy raking in boatloads of cash to fix glaring design flaws or hire more customer service reps. Sadly. I've done all the 'fixes' but still spill powder all over when reloading .308.

What powder are you using? I load .308 with 147-155g FMJ and BL( C ) -2 the case at 45.0 - 45.5g is only 4/5ths full works great indexing on my 650.

Edited June 4, 2013 by Boxerglocker

[blueeyephil]

I called the local bearing company in town. I live in a small town and gave them the number. They didn't have it in stock but it will be in tomorrow or the next day. They gave me the specs and its the same bearing.

If you live in a little bigger town, your local company might just have it in stock.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

[diablodawg]

What powder are you using? I load .308 with 147-155g FMJ and BL( C ) -2 the case at 45.0 - 45.5g is only 4/5ths full works great indexing on my 650.

I'm using 48.0 grains of BLC-2. It goes right up to the neck and still flings powder like crazy. Roller bearings, detent spring clipped, and shellplate cranked down so it is as smooth as possible. It still slings powder all over.

[xAZxE30x]

I just installed my stuff from mcmasters

[45LinemanNH]

Just placed my order from Mcmasters. Can't wait to get it installed. Thanks for the part numbers. For less than $6 even if its not a 100% fix it can't hurt.

[luisc202]

Thanks I just ordered the needle bearing and washers.

[454redhawk]

$4.37 & Free Shipping

zorotools.com

Part number for the bearing is TC815 http://www.zorotools.com/g/00063423/k-G2130633/

Part number for the washer is TWA815 http://www.zorotools.com/g/00063424/k-G1106183/

[sigsauerfan]

hit shooter's supply has the bearing kit.i oredered mine yesterday. riding my finger on top of the case from 3 to 4 becomes annoying after 2 years lol.

[sigsauerfan]

i ordered the bearing kit and phenolic detent ball for my 650.... however after reading the whole thread i decided to cut one coil on the detent ball spring to see what happens . fact is my machine is pretty well settled up and very smooth action to beggin with (thanks to some invaluable infos i got from very helpfull users on this forum when i started reloading couple years ago) , however the coil cut on the spring makes a real difference , no more powder Spill.

[flyingrhino]

I went on line to McMasters and ordered the two washers and needle bearing as described below. I had it in two days!! And all for <$10.00! I installed it as described and it seems to work well. Definitiely reduces the snap to the next station movement that causes the powder to jump out of the casing. I will test it more today when I reload another few hundred rounds to see how well it holds up but it definitely looks good so far. Thanks for the fix!!

The snap should not only be reduced, it should be gone if applied correctly. The trick is to tighten the shellplate tighter than normal. The bearing lets you tighten it up yet keep moving freely. What works for me is to have the plate tight enough that it takes some effort to turn it by hand. It should not be anywhere near as loose as it is without the bearing.

This IS the key. I also replaced the steel ball with a ceramic ball from McMaster and clipped about half a coil off the spring. Tighten the bolt down by hand until the plate doesn't rotate by hand, then loosen it just enough that you can turn it by hand. Then tighten the set screw that secures the shell plate bolt. As stated, the shell plate should rotate with slight resistance by hand and you should experience zero snap.

[sigsauerfan]

got the bearing kit and phenolic ball+spring . maybe it's me,but the bearing kit made the shell plate action very rough .my press runs smoother without the bearing kit. i run the detent ball spring with 1 coil cut,that's been the best improvement i did to date to reduce the abrupt stop. however i'd like to make it even smoother if possible,maybe i miss something with the bearing-washer set up.

[azgoose]

I've tried pretty much every fix for the 650 shell plate snap. Here is a summary of what I've done:

• Thrust Bearing - smoothed out the operation, but did not fix
• Cut 1/2 coil (then another half) - a little smoother but not fixed
• Phenalic (sp?) ball and lighter spring from ebay - tooooo soft - kept the spring, ditched the ball
• Adjust the indexer block - this was THE final fix. No more snapping, no more not locking fully in place (soft detent spring). Fix was found here.

Ultimately, messing with the detent ball and spring left me with a press that would not put the shell plate properly into position. The pressure from the stock spring and ball help "force" it into position, resulting in the snap. By adjusting that indexer block, in my case pushing it towards the back of the press, the shell plate locked into the proper position. It stopped the snapping completely.

Hope this helps