Macca

Has anyone got a printable template file - pdf, .doc etc etc thats a template for cutting grip tape for an STI 2011 frame? Cheers..

So....can cases be reloaded in 9 major or are most of them usually had it? (yeh I have heaps...but i'd still go through it in a few years)

Yep....major is about 160ish...but you might want a bit more to account for load variation due to conditions and chronographs...... even still.....what about wear and tear etc?

Hi all, looking at purchasing an STI Trubor to shoot Open Major. Now being that I'm 'down under' and nothing over 40cal exists many still shoot 9mm and shoot major, many others shoot 38 super. What are the pros and cons of getting a trubor in 9mm and 39 super. Obviously 38 super I can get to major more easily? but then I have garbage bins full of 9mm cases. I've been told to avoid 9mm cause it will cause undue pressure on the gun and ruin cases....how true is that? I have to balance against new reloading dies, new cases etc etc if I go 38 super but it may be a much better option? Being that I'm relatively new to IPSC i'm thinking that i'd like to be competitive at club level and able to compete but not worried about being seriously competitive in the next couple of years (if ever).....I just want to have fun and not get embarrassingly beaten. Appreciate any advice on offer.....

Yes I do but it always seems to chamber the first round when using the slide release

Well now.... I am suspicious about this too having looked at the extractor the tolerance for a case is extremely tight.... But I am unsure how to remove it from the slide to change the tension.... Can you describe the correct method?

I wish but I can only find 13 and 15 round mags?? which sadly are illegal in Aus. Hmm...I think I have one or two SIG 9mm 10 round magazines laying around that I will never use. Do you know if it would be legal for me to ship them to AUS? My x-5 is 357sig, and would require 40 cal in any case I would probably have to get an import permit etc but thankyou very much for the offer

I wish but I can only find 13 and 15 round mags?? which sadly are illegal in Aus.

Hi all, I have an X-5 allround in 357sig that is feed jamming....now I think its a magazine problem as the only mags I have are a couple of mags from promag that are really P226 mags..... Anyone else had issues with using P226 magazines in an x-5 allround? or had jamming issues with the allround? whats happening is the rounds are getting pushed up into the top of the chamber probably at a 30-40 degree angle and locking the gun up....I've tried altering oal, crimp etc on the rounds....its definitely a feeding issue and if I push slightly on the mag the rounds seem to feed ok Reason Im not using the mags for the gun are germany sent me 15 rounds mags which are illegal here in AUS and had to be sent back and as usual SIG is taking a lifetime to send 10 round mags back. anyway...if anyone has encountered this or has suggestions for modifying the mags let me know...but I'm thinking its probably the slot on the P226 mags from promag aren't in the exact spot for the x-5 allround?

Hi guys, need to load some ammo for a vintage pistol match where Im planning to shoot an old broomhandle mauser chambered for 7.63x25mm....has anyone done some loading for this cartridge? The bore is .308....manual lists .3095 as nominal projectile size....would I be able to use .314 .32 cal projectiles or would that be pushing it way too much? otherwise has anyone ever resized hardcast lead? is it doable?

Traditionally I have almost always loaded on progressive presses,......mostly Dillon, and more or less done zero brass prep except chucking split cases or removing a burr from maybe one in a thousand cases that I happen to notice etc. Lately I've been looking at some of my, loads and wondering if I can squeeze a little accuracy for more bullseye type shooting. As I do it for long distance rifle loads I thought I'd experiment with uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes of 100 new cases and trimming them all down by .001 or .002" so they were all identical in length. I honestly noticed a reasonable improvement in group size.....maybe as much as half an inch ..... And to be honest found the flash holes and primer pockets in the brass to be quite varied... In fact one or two would have had to crush a primer to seat it properly and this is brand new Winchester brass! Makes me wonder..... Does anyone else bother with uniforming their brass when it's brand new?I still probably wouldn't bother for most types of shooting, but for distance work it seems to help quite a bit....more than I would have expected.

Pretty much...... What I do is have a bucket that's to be loaded next until that runs out then I load them all again...... Just means they've all be shot sane number of times so they wear reasonably evenly

I have some 9mm brass that been used for minor type power loads since 1999 and I'm still loading it...... I've lost count but given that there's About 4000 cases and I shoot about 10000 a year that's still a lot of loading .....Some of them you can't even read the headstamp properly

I would recommend the redding pro crimp die but in all honesty my dillon and lee dies crimp perfectly well too. However, despite the cost I am highly impressed with the quality of the redding dies for all steps including sizing, seating, and crimping. My ammo has been flawlessly consistent since I made themove to redding dies something which the other dies never quite achieved to the same degree of consistency.

Get the redding competition seating die regradless in my honest opinion.....it is well worth the expense. Not only will it seat any bullet profile to the correct depth, but it will do it without risk of damaging the bullet or marking it in some way if it doesnt fit the seating stem and is an absolute breeze to adjust should you wish to try something new every now and then and then just flick it back to the preset setting for your fav load.... I own dies in pretty much every conceivable brand....I now only buy redding comp dies

are the case lengths equal even? if you havent checked you will probably find they vary a few thousandths too. OAL is usually listed as a MAX OAL which means you can be under and would depend on stuff like the bullet and its profile as to whether it was even reducing the case volume to begin with. As for consistent OAL's....brass should be same length and then I personally use a redding competition seating die as its about the only seating die I have found to be genuinely accurate in seating depth with far less variation than my rcbs or lee dies. In a glock 22 I'm assuming you are loading 40 s&w? if so a few thousandths in variation or seating difference is highly unlikely to cause drastic increases in pressure but may contribute to wider groups specially if shooting at over 25 yards. Its not so much a difference in OAL that matters as it is a difference in case volume....the two are not always the same thing either especially if the bullets and brass all have slightly different measurements.... if your press is mounted to a secure bench etc and is stable I do not see how you could influence the seating depth...its not you its more likely variations in the materials being fed into the press....once again...does this matter? bigger question is how do the rounds shoot from a rest etc? are they consistent and tight grouping or not? what is your load, what is the length and twist rate of the barrel...the list goes on. my 9mm ammo has variations of a few thousandths and will hold a 2-3 inch group at 50 metres provided I do my bit...but only one load combination will do it....I had to try 56 different loads to find the one I now use. so...tell us about case lengths, what bullets, what the load is and what kind of accuracy you are chasing at what maximum distance....

Hi guys, I've never used a lee FCD die until now. My dillon 650 is set with redding dies in all calibers. I recently got given a lee FCD for 9mm....figured I might as well set it up and try it as so many people seem to have it as their final die...but I'm honestly not certain I can see what it is doing that the redding dies aren't already achieving beforehand. My case neck comes out of the redding crimp die at exactly .380 which is exactly what I want my 9mm case mouth to measure. Maybe the FCD performs a greater function when used with lee die sets? If its serving some other purpose that I'm not enlightened about please let me know?

Peter, What projectiles/load are you running, although I will be loading for a sig, the concept of the holy Grail of loads is appealing. I've been looking at possibly selecting a hrbc or Topscore 9mm/38 super projie, but I noticed westcasting actually lists a flat point for 357sig? Any info would be great........I've settled on AP70N as the powder anyway as I have a few large bottles on hand as is. Thanks.....

Thanks for the data, I'm about to start loading 357sig..... does anyone have any data for lead? I can get hardcast bullets in .355, or .356 that are rated for over 1600fps so they should work fine in full loads....but theres very little data for lead. Is anyone loading the 357sig with lead and what sort of loads in what gun etc? Also....whats the overall length of the projectiles that people find their guns favour? The gun I'll be running my loads in is a Sig P226 X-Five allround. As far as why lead.....its all the outdoor range I go to is certified for....so I don't have a choice sadly.

Guys, whats a good homemade ultrasonic cleaning solution..... I've seen vinegar and water followed by bicarb and water to neutralize....does this change the properties of the brass cases? What about cleaning small steel parts?

When you say brighten....do you want to clean it? or actually polish it so it looks kinda like chrome/silver? Cleaning should be achieveable with any decent powder solvent and a cloth. Polish means polishing compound of some kind preferably not one that erodes the metal much if at all....I have used autosol to polish stainless steel guns in the past. Otherwise any reputable polish would do...like Flitz.

You'd have to check the data but about 3.0 -3.5 grains of Trailboss should do the job.

yes its a euro version....bought it from the local distributor

I'm not very electrical minded but I had an electrician check it and he said everything is ok.....I am also running the unit on a surge protector board and I do not leave it plugged in etc when it is not in use.

MSA Sordin Supreme Pro-X's Being a range officer I'm exposed to gunfire for hours and hours every time I set foot on a range......I tried almost every different set of electronic muffs I've come across...these won out by far...with the gel seals they are super comfortable and seal around things like a cap edge or thick glasses frame. The audio is amazing...if I turn up the volume I can hear stuff more than 50metres behind me as if they were standing right next to me....I have now learnt to keep the volume down...sometimes you just dont want to hear everything said behind the firing line when you're trying to concentrate I know the rating on paper doesnt seem as high for noise supression as others but they do an amazing job at keeping gunfire down and everything else clearly audible...well worth the money and a purchase I have yet to hear anyone regret...I certainly love mine and would just buy another pair without looking elsewhere...they do everything I could want....the headset jack is great for plugging in an ipod, or radio etc too....excel;lent if you need to be able to use a phone or vhf radio for comms whilst running a competition or something