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Why bother with lead bullets?


Sarge

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Boats wrote:

High Power Silouette rifles in 308 or 7mm o8 Shooting match jacketed boat tails last about 3000 rounds It's big bucks to re-barrel either one not to mention months out of service waiting out the gunsmith.

Would buying a Savage rifle with their quick barrel nut changing system be any quicker/cheaper?

Yeah, stop laughing, I know it is a Savage and their cheap and their bores aren't that perfect and a little lapping helps with that. Just curious if having a Savage is advantageous in that regards.

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Sarge- I like shooting lead Laser Cast and/or local lead bullets because I get great accuracy out of my Kart barrel with them. The softer lead bullets "expand" and catch the barrel rifling real well and the Laser Cast just shoot great...as you probably know, the smoke is from lube burning off and not lead. Primers residue coming back in our face (look at some slow motion film of someone shooting a pistol)is a far bigger hazard then lead will ever be. I use to clean my 1911's after every shoot because I kind of enjoyed it but now I shoot thousands of lead bullets between cleanings just using a bore snake and a little oil on the slides...bottom line I like the accuracy and feel of lead...good guestion..C

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It comes down to your disposable income and what you can afford to shoot. I have shot lead for 20yrs, and it has not harmed my health, so I have to laugh at people that poo poo lead bullets as really harmful. If you shoot with good venilation and use good handwashing you will be fine.

I shoot lead because it is cheaper and I get to shoot more for my money, so I can afford to practice. For important matches I shoot jacketed, but for club matches lead is just fine.

For open guns, steel guns with comps, etc....I use jacketed, but for production guns, revolvers, stock guns, limited guns, etc. there is no problem with lead, and lead bullets are usually a bit more accurate as others have noted, and less wear on barrels. I have a buddy that has shot over 100K of lead bullets through a .45 limited gun, and it still shoots 2.5inches at 50yds like it did when it got built....

Pros and cons, do whatever you like, but I, thanks to mining berms last year and a buddy who is a commercial caster, now have close to 80K of lead bullets to load and shoot for short money. Dare I say.....more bang for my buck... :D

Good discussion!

DougC

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I guess you have to look at the overall. I shoot outside which minimizes lead exposure. (Note I said MINIMIZES, and not ELIMINATES) At $288.00 for 2500 180gr MG CMJ and $203.00 for2500 180gr Black Bullets LTC, the difference is 85.00. That is enough money to buy powder to send all the moly coated bullets downrange. I can wash my range clothers and keep my lead out of the house well enough.

Or you could buy more bullets, or some primers should you come across any. :rolleyes:

What powder do you use? What kind of build up do you get? How much smoke is produced?

I never had good luck with anything moly coated, but I know others do. When I shot them, and I tried everything suggested, I always got build up in the chambers, smoke, and sometimes even tumbling bullets. With lead at least all I got was smoke but it gets worse the faster I tried to push it so .45 was the only thing I use it for.

I shoot 180gr BBI or Bear Creek moly coated bullets over solo 1000. I think my load is 4.7 and the OAL is 1.130 for .40 out of a CZ TS. This load has given me good accuracy, and almost no leading. I also use the mixture to clean my barrel, and that takes all of five minutes and therefore I use it often.

In 9mm I shoot the BBI 130gr LTC with solo also through several 9mms including a G17, and that load I got off this forum. I can't remember that load right now, but I do remember that it makes minor, and is really clean through the G17 with not only no moly residue, but little if any soot or anything. Last time I pulled that barrel, I would have sworn that it hadn't been fired that day. It was kinda weird really.

All kinds of bullets, lead, bare or coated, can be used with good results. What you get with jacketed, in my opinion, is the ability to push the bullets faster. The greatest barrel wear comes not from the fricton of the bullets in your barrel, but the flame cutting of the high-pressure explosions shockwave as it moves behind and around the bullet. That is why jacketed wears the barrel more. Not so much the friction of the harder material of the jacket, but rather the super-hot jet of gas that bypasses the bullet. Lead projectiles, properly designed, obturate and more effectively cut off the jet behind the bullet therefore decreasing barrel wear.

Plus, I can get the lead on short notice from the local Bear Creek distributor. One call does it all. :D

JZ

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Also make sure when you do your comparison your comparing GOOD lead bullets not some wheel weight back yard stuff to jacketed bullets. In 9mm it isn't worth the cost to shoot anything but jacketed in my mind. In .40 maybe if you shoot enough. .45 I still shoot lead as the cost difference is there and I don't shoot a lot of it to worry about the exposure factor. With the way prices are I don't see why people even use moly bullets either as they are close enough to jacketed sometimes. Just me, though maybe I've hung around bullet snobs for to long.

I shoot (and sell) Bear Creek bullets and they are about half the cost of jacketed bullets in all three calibers.

I'd have been using jacketed bullets a long time ago if I thought there was any legitimate performance benefit. I'm still not convinced that there is, especially when shooting outside.

Moly coated bullets are barely more expensive than a good cast lead/lubed bullet and shoot like jacketed. I know a lot of people love jacketed bullets (especially here) but they're just too expensive for me and not worth the increased price.

I have never seen even a single leaded barrel with Bear Creek bullets. This includes factory Glock barrels. As long as moly shoots well, I see very little use for jacketed bullets for shooting targets. Perhaps if I was hunting or something, I'd feel differently.

I always thought people were shooting jacketed bullets because they hadn't heard of moly bullets yet.

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I know I'm weigh late in this topic.

Why bother with lead bullets?

the cost,

Years ago I bought hand me down casting equipment from a guy who was getting a divorce.

That equipment has paid for itself in so many ways, not just in making my own bullets,

that cost me maybe $3 a 1000 + labor.. the labor gets you. It's dirty and getting Wheel weights is tough sometimes.

Mine pays for primers and powder, and I load a bunch!! not just pistol,, and cast bullets are good trading stock. If you like to barter.

It pays for itself, and more than one time it helps make some ends meet. When times get tough and life's little emergencies spring up.

Now if I just had more time to make bullets I would be OK!

Jim M ammo

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Not being antagonistic here at all. I have been going nuts trying to figure out whether or not to try lead. I currently shoot 124MG CMJ with TG. The bullets cost about 7.6 cents each. Missouri bullets work out to about 5.2 cents each plus shipping. That is $1.20 a box or somewhere around 2 or 3 bucks a match difference. Black bullets are almost 7 cents a piece. With all the potential leading issues, powder limitations, gunking up the press, etc. Why bother?

If money where no issue would those of you who shoot lead still do so?

Please feel free to enlighten me as I may be missing something.

To answer your question, NO, to take it one step further IF, money was no object I would not reload at all.

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Not being antagonistic here at all. I have been going nuts trying to figure out whether or not to try lead. I currently shoot 124MG CMJ with TG. The bullets cost about 7.6 cents each. Missouri bullets work out to about 5.2 cents each plus shipping. That is $1.20 a box or somewhere around 2 or 3 bucks a match difference. Black bullets are almost 7 cents a piece. With all the potential leading issues, powder limitations, gunking up the press, etc. Why bother?

If money where no issue would those of you who shoot lead still do so?

Please feel free to enlighten me as I may be missing something.

To answer your question, NO, to take it one step further IF, money was no object I would not reload at all.

I'm up with that,,,, IF Money was no object,,,, I would just buy ammo! :sight:

Hmmm note to self buy Lotto ticket during lunch. :ph34r:

Jim M ammo

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Lead works for me. I use a lead bullet for practice and or moly and moly for matches.

The cost difference on a yearly basis for bullets is over 2K for me, comparing MG 180 vs. Lead/moly 180's. that's 2000.00 that stays in my pocket, buys food or gas, or pays for a trip.

That is just for 40 caliber, i shoot others though not as frequently.

For 9mm, i can find jacketed bullets at reasonable prices.

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When I compare a 130gr BBI with 3.8gr solo1000 to a 124gr Precision Delta with 5.3gr of Power Pistol the difference is $15.60 per 1000. I don't shoot as much as others but I've got an extra $100-$150 a year to spend on jacketed bullets.

Edited by GForceLizard
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When I compare a 130gr BBI with 3.8gr solo1000 to a 124gr Precision Delta with 5.3gr of Power Pistol the difference is $15.60 per 1000. I don't shoot as much as others but I've got an extra $100-$150 a year to spend on jacketed bullets.

What if the bullets were $6 per thousand cheaper?

Where do you draw the line?

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What if the bullets were $6 per thousand cheaper?

Where do you draw the line?

I've shot enough lead bullets to know that they're not likely to ever be cheap enough for me to put up with the smoke......

I have a strong personal preference for jacketed and I'm willing to pay for that.....

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I love religeousity - it's so revealing.

People like what they like and there is nothing that is going to change what they like. It's akin to telling someone that Apple is Better than PCs - or Cessna is better than Piper - or Ford is better than Chrysler (which they are)..

Fact is - some people like particular aspects. Personally - the cost difference of 40 and 45 - yeah - I'm doing lead. It's a lot. 9mm - i'll probably stick with Jacketed. In that case - I'm sorta screwed as I have 6k 147gr precisions sitting on top of my gun safe waiting for seating....

Oh well...

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If price was no object I'd shoot plated bullets. Since price is an object and I shoot about 10 times as much per week at the range as I do at matches, I shoot lead. But, I also cast all of the bullets I shoot, making them at about $43/1000 for .45 caliber. 9mm would be about $25/1000. I specifically seek out wheel weight lead, btw, because it's just about the best alloy available for low velocity loads in .45 IMO.

I would prefer to spend my time doing something other than casting bullets, but it's actually a bit of an art and skill that's interesting--about 350 or so in a couple of hours in the evening, including sizing and lubing. I've seen no difference in terms of gun maintenance with my Sig--no leading whatsoever and no other issues. In my MP45c, I have experienced leading, but I'm not sure what all the fuss about leading is anyway. A few extra minutes with a bore brush, if I'm concerned (which I'm not, really).

There are few commercially available bullets I've found that cost much less than what my finished ammo costs me, IF I don't have to pay $40/1000 for primers and similarly ridiculous prices for powder at the local shop. When my backorders arrive from time to time, I load at $96/1000 for .45 ACP--that's finished ammo. Plus, I control the quality and the lube used. After going through some fits, I now think my bullets are easily the equal of any I've seen. Took a while.

It also depends on whether one sees the hobby as 'shooting', or finds these other associated activities just as fun.

NOTE: After rethinking the 'if money was no object' and looking a couple of other responses, my real answer is: I'd call up HSM or someone like that, tell them what sort of load I wanted, and to ship me 10,000 rds to my door each month until I say "Stop."

Edited by Bongo Boy
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In the 60's it was the IN thing to cast your own bullets and you could get the corner service stations to save you the old used wheel weights. After working in the electronics industry for years doing a lot of soldering and having to get yearly lead tests, it is no longer as IN as it once was. I used someone else's cast bullets until he died and Master Blaster's until he had to quit, now it is plated or jacketed and an occasional moly in .45ACP. If cost were no object I would shoot only jacketed bullets, wait it's not I'll just let my kids declare bankruptcy after I die.

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Sarge - As one old Sarge to the other, You asked if money wasn't an object. So forget the money. I shoot Moly and Bayou Bullets in my limited guns because I can get a much softer load that still hits A's. It don't take a PHD to figure out that 4.4gr of N320 behind a 185gr Moly bullet is going to shoot softer than 5.0gr of N320 behind a 180gr Jacketed bullet, and they are both at 170pf. The secret is that the bullet seals better.

I think your shooting a 9 mm but the same principle applies.

So its not about the money, its about shooting a tick faster with less flip.

Currently I'm evaluating using these bullets http://www.bayoubullets.net in my open guns. If it can handle 10gr of AA#7 at 1360 pfs and hit A's I'm going to use them. I don't know what the coating is but it don't come off.

Build up is easily avioded with a modicum of reloading skill.

Powders that work are N320, WST, 231 and lots of others. The inferno powder TiteGroup will melt just about any thing and I recommend CMJ bullets with it. Check out their smoke demo http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=uS-MUUaHx78

Give Donnie Miculek a holler at bayou bullets and get him to send you a sample pack.

Edited by CocoBolo
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What if the bullets were $6 per thousand cheaper?

Where do you draw the line?

I've shot enough lead bullets to know that they're not likely to ever be cheap enough for me to put up with the smoke......

I have a strong personal preference for jacketed and I'm willing to pay for that.....

Moly bullets don't smoke.

My question wasn't asking what your preferences are. I'm sure we'd all shoot jacketed if money was no object.

My question was where do you draw the line? My 9mm bullets are $15-30 per thousand cheaper than jacketed. For .40 and .45, there's even more savings.

All of us have to compare marginal costs and marginal benefits. I'm just wondering at what point, do you feel, the marginal cost would exceed the marginal benefits.

Considering Bear Creek bullets and Solo 1000 doesn't smoke at all, I've been really happy with my loads.

I've often considered switching to jacketed. Every time, though, I find that I just can't justify the costs. Jacketed bullets cost a LOT more (20% or more) and I just don't see much, if any, benefit over moly.

If the choice was cast lead with lube vs. jacketed, I'd be willing to pay a substantial premium. But when it comes to moly vs. jacketed, it seems that moly is the clear winner.

So, what do you think? How much money per thousand rounds would you have to save to make it worth it? And what about for practice? Would you practice with moly?

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This latest batch of wheel weights cost me $50, and should give a yield of about 9,000 125 grain 9mmcx19 bullets.

Finances is why I do it :)

New or used wheel weights ?

It's pretty cost prohibitive to buy wheel weights new to melt them down. They cost about a buck/oz at the local parts store. 246 pounds of used ones cost me 50 bucks.

A good fluxing takes care of any/all junk in the melt. I flux, cast into ignots, fill, flux, cast, etc. - then do bullets from the ignots, with a cautionary fluxing to catch anything that was missed in the first melting, or that found it's way into the pot between meltings.

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It's pretty cost prohibitive to buy wheel weights new to melt them down. They cost about a buck/oz at the local parts store. 246 pounds of used ones cost me 50 bucks.

A good fluxing takes care of any/all junk in the melt. I flux, cast into ignots, fill, flux, cast, etc. - then do bullets from the ignots, with a cautionary fluxing to catch anything that was missed in the first melting, or that found it's way into the pot between meltings.

Do you have to add any other product to increase the hardness of wheel-weights' lead? I know that most companies use something like 2% antimony or even zinc but I am not sure if the wheel-weights have these already in them, if it has to be added, or if it really makes little or no difference.

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