jeep45238

Just a curiosity for me right now. Does anybody have the slide weight comparisons between a G35, G34, a G19 and a G23? Also, for those that have lightened the slide, how much did you have off, and what kind of a difference did you notice?

I've been more impressed with the Zev Gen 4 mag release. I'll be ordering 2 in a couple weeks for my own guns.

Just an update - Bought Trijicon HD night sights for the G23. They're very similar to the Ameriglow Hackathorn, but are a higher profile sight set with what seems to be a slightly larger rear notch in the shape of a U instead of a square. I've found them much easier and faster to find the front sight on than the Hackthorn sets. http://www.trijicon....ct1.php?id=HDNS Also bought an Advantage Arms conversion kit, had a few teething issues, but that's common with conversion kits. I also didn't have any high velocity ammo, which the kit needs, so I'm sure that was part of the problem. I'll be putting the same sight set on the conversion kit soon. I haven't decided exactly which sight set to get for the G34 yet, but it's down to the Dawson and Sevigny sets right now. When I get a conversion kit for this gun, I'll put the same sight set on it as well. Both guns are currently running the stock internals, and have proven to be among the better of the Glock triggers I've shot in the past.

Long story short I've ot a G23 and a G34, both Gen 4's. I absolutely despise the G23 due to the recoil impulse, but I bought it to be able to actually shoot when I can find ammo instead of hoping that they have 9mm. That said- what will it take to reliably convert the G23 to 9mm? I know I'll have to snag up mags, a conversion barrel, recoil spring unit, and possibly an extractor. Is there anything I'm missing for this? I would rather avoid the purchase of a G19, unless the cost of the parts needed to reliably make a G23 funtion as a 9mm exceeds the cost of a new firearm.

Congrats!

Yup. The trigger on my Gen 4 G34 is mushy compared to my Gen 4 G23.

Fixed would be preferred for the G23, doesn't really matter for the G34. Do the Dawsons have a crisper picture, a narrower window, etc? Why do people go for those?

Right now I'm kind of stuck on what sights to get on my Glock 34. I'm planning to use this gun as is except sights for a little while before I touch the internals. I'd like to run sights with a very similar sight picture on my G23. I want to run plain black steel sights on my G34, and something that catches my eye on the front sight of the G23. What height front sight does the G34 use? What height front sight does the G23 use? I don't know if I would like the U notch or the square notch in the rear, I've only used square notch in the past. I spend a lot of time using peeps on a rifle, so I'm open to trying new things to see if they work. I have discovered that I shoot faster w/ a fiber/night front sight over a plain rear, and more accurate using all black. Up in the running so far is: (Front/Rear) Sevigny Comp sights G34 (black/black) Sevigny Carry sights G23 (night/black) Ameriglo Target G34 (black/black) Ameriglo Hackathorn G23 (night/black) Warren Tactical G32 (black/black) Warren Tactical G23 (night/black) Any other favorites to look out for?

One thing that helped me tremendously (and that I'll have to revisit, since I haven't shot since july) was attending an Appleseed shoot and using a aprature iron sight rifle. The sight alignment and focus was more natural, and using a sling gave a very stable shooting position. That let me focus on my trigger manipulation and calling the shot very well.

Looking to send my SP01 Shadow off for some work, probably around March/April of next year. After some thought and drool over the AccuShadow, I just can't justify that tag, and am going to have my Shadow worked over. A big thing that popped out to me is that Akai Custom shortens the DA stroke, where Matt Mink's work doesn't mention it anywhere. Reports from everywhere is that both are silky smooth triggers. So, for those out there who have had a chance to get your mitts on either/both of these, which one would you prefer, and why?

The reason is simple. The further apart the sights are, the easier it is to detect if the sights are not properly aligned. This is the same reason why rifles are more accurate than pistols (not counting major design differences). Put optics into the equation, and then it's no longer in the equation, as the sight radius is identical for both (infinate). This is why it's easy to peg a steel @500m with an SBR, or a iron sight 20"AR.

Ship wreck, yes it will vary from gun to gun, but having sold several dozen of these face to face on the store front, that observation about the da trigger feel was noted by almost all without me mentioning it.

Wish I still had that one, but whatever. I'm having problems picking out my next 1911 - a DW Pointman 9, STI Trojan 9, or a SA 9mm......hope I can find one around Christmas or March at a good price!

I really don't give a hoot

Out of curiosity, it looks like the bushing is possible to do on a standard shadow after the fact judging by the website. If this is true, what is the cost, and do ya'll need the slide only, or the entire gun?

It's not that bad. Yes, the front strap has practically no finish on it. No, the gun was never dropped, or dragged behind a truck down a gravel road. Character's a good thing.

I think the HAJO sight just sits high. $1,665 is the MSRP. Sometime next year (not soon enough)

I caught this on the CZ forums and thought I'd share. Hoping to get my hands on it as soon as they're for sale - I'm undecided on the grips, I guess I'll have to see how they compared to my G10's.

Italian made has a better DA pull out of the box. Mine is an American made - I bought it over the Italian made solely because we're issued American made in the USAF, and why spoil myself when I won't be issued something with that nice of a pull.

You can't miss fast enough to catch up.

Best way I've found - do NOT buy the Apex striker block (unless you're paranoid on working on your own pistols and want a spare part). Remove the striker block, and insert an allen key where the spring normally will go. Take this to the bench grinder, and profile the sucker so the entire head is a dome - not a flat space on it. Then polish it up. The allen key allows the striker block to rotate and give a uniform shape as you grind. Go slow and work from the outside in, aiming for a gentle profile - keep a dome shape, don't try to get a cone on it. Take the trigger bar and very slightly bend it inwards towards the magwell - it doesn't take much. This gives a much better reset. If you want a stronger one still, and do not use a mag disconnect or a thumb safety model, then look at the Apex RAM. The .45 that I bought has Apex's striker block in it, and my 9Pro has my home made jobbie - and there is a huge difference between the two, before I even added the RAM to the 9.

Basically, if the slide stop is used to get it into battery, the engagement surfaces between the slide stop and the slide will mate together and polish each other. The only gun I haven't been able to do it on is a single 1911 - and the owner always powerstrokes it. Every other pistol, easy peasy, japanesey.

Glad to hear that everybody is safe. Contact S&W - you never know what may happen. On the local forum, one fellow's M&P blew up using factory Wolf ammo - all he ever shoots. Wolf and Smith worked together from what I gathered, and he got a new pistol out of it, and Wolf wanted to send him ammo to try and make up for it. The way I look at it, you have nothing to loose by calling and asking.

I use the pumpkin on a post (6 o'clock) when shooting rifles for accuracy beyond 100 yards. Everything else is 12 oclock hold (center of mass hold).