Choke Tubes

[outerlimits]

what's the sure fire way of keeping choke tubes from unthreading? been watching mine back out just a tad, and i'd hate to forget to look and end up blowing the choke off and ending up with an elmer fudd barrel.

anti-seize? chewing tobbacco?

[ken hebert]

BLUE LOC-TITE

[HSMITH]

Grease, heavy choke tube grease or Rig +P stainless grease, that and get in the habit of reaching out and giving it a twist every box or so of shells. The heavier the grease the less it moves on each shot. If you ever get one where it will NOT loosen under shooting odds are pretty good you are going to mangle something getting it out if you can get it out.

[George]

Yeah, I also gave up on getting mine to stay tight and didn't go loctite because I wanna' change them as needed. I just check it regularly now.

I like the heavy grease tip, gonna' try that out :-)

[mpeltier]

I just made it a habbit as i put away the shotgun after a stage I habitually give it a twist and the same before I start one. I do it without even thinking about it now. Of course never do it while its loaded...

I forgot to mention this is also why i prefer extended choke tubes with the knurled end. They are stainless and I paint the knurled part only with black duracoat. If it backs out a little it reveals a silver line that indicates at a glance it loosened up. And the knurling is easy to grasp to tighten without a wrench or sticking your finger in the end.

Edited January 14, 2009 by mpeltier

[tightloop]

It is just one of those things that you learn to do. Every so often I reach up and twist on the choke tubes to be sure they are tight...don't really need any special lube or grease....

[J.Schmitt]

I shoot an m1 ( the same gun ) both for three gun and bird hunting. I use tetra gun grease on the threads and give the tube a good bit of steady torq when I screw it in. I shot approx 300 rounds of full power #2's and bb's throught the MN bird season without having it loosen. It may just be my particular gun or it could be the grease. For $4 bucks you might want to try it.

jay

[bigbrowndog]

I know one guy that silver soldered his in place to keep it from working loose, but he is kinda strange?????????

Ditto on the just develop the habit of checking every SG stage or so.

Trapr

[Dan Sierpina]

Isn't the obvious method simply to use a wrench when you change them? Then check them every stage or so..

In regards to Mr Kirt Mueller soldering the tube in. I had two members on my trap team that had the tubes frozen in with carbon.

[George]

Whether I use a choke wrench or just hand tighten mine, it still works loose, just a little slower with the wrench, but not enuff to bother anymore. Just check it regularly or else solder it in place like "someone smarter than me in these things" does

[mike.45]

if you dont have any solder or loctite a cheaper way is take the choke out, dip it in salty water and put it back in the gun wet and just leave it. After a few weeks it will be in there pretty good.

[ArturoJ]

I use Slide-Glide as my heavy grease of choice.

[ShooterSteve]

Hey Mike why don't you just dunk the whole gun in salt water. That way the colors will match all over. None of that two tone sissy stuff.

[Jaxshooter]

They make choke tube lube that is nothing more than heavy grease. Just use grease and check them now and then.

[ranger]

They make choke tube lube that is nothing more than heavy grease. Just use grease and check them now and then.

Ditto - that is what I use

[Hank Ellis]

I give the choke on my Beretta 391 clays gun a twist every time I change stations. If I don't it will loosen about a quarter turn after a box of shells.

For some reason the chokes in the FN SLP doesn't loosen. I think there's something wrong with it.

[Xfactor]

Grease, heavy choke tube grease or Rig +P stainless grease...

Is the RIG +P Stainless OK for a Benelli chrome-lined Crio barrel with either the stock Benelli Crio tubes, of Briley tubes?

[kurtm]

I don't know for sure, but the silver solder sure was! KurtM

[Charles Bond]

Grease, heavy choke tube grease or Rig +P stainless grease...

Is the RIG +P Stainless OK for a Benelli chrome-lined Crio barrel with either the stock Benelli Crio tubes, of Briley tubes?

I can not speak to those products but I can tell you that Slip 2000 choke tube cleaner (the orange smelling stuff in the jar) did a great job of stripping the chrome platting off of one of my M2 chokes.

Briley tubes are stainles so would not affect those.

[Bearcave]

Remove choke tube put the barrel in your gun safe behind the hinges. Close safe and barrel gets behind hinge arms. Slowly open safe door with barrel wedged between safe wall and hinge arms. Use large taper pin to straighten muzzle of barrel. Install choke tube with lub. Don't get in a hurry, will take about 5 mintues to install choke tube and you will need a nap when done. Will not shoot loose!

[jobob]

Use a hammer and center punch and stake that sucker in there!

[Dan Sierpina]

Is the RIG +P Stainless OK for a Benelli chrome-lined Crio barrel with either the stock Benelli Crio tubes, of Briley tubes?

On a serious note. The Rig should be okay. Personally I use Never Sieze. And I give the tube a check between stages too.

[WS6]

I used to have this problem. I bought a Benelli M4 (my first of 3), very excited. I lubed it well, tightened the choke down with the factory wrench, and went to town! Every box of shells, it would loosen. I would dutifully tq it down again. Again and again this was repeated. So I posted on the internet. "Use grease" came the response. So I did. No help there. I just now had something that wouldn't wash out of clothes (Birchwood Casey metallic-base choke-tube lube, which I still use and love, btw.).

Anyways, what finally solved the issue was a Briley Speed Wrench. I now TQ it down good and snug, and last outing I shot 15-20 rounds of buckshot, 5 rounds of steel DDupleks slugs, 15 Slugger slugs, and 25 rounds of birdshot, (some rapid-fire 9-shot mag-dumps included). When I got home, the tube was nice and snug. My OEM wrenches just collect dust now, and I think those cheap-looking "quarter with guts" style wrenches are a total joke.

Bit the bullet and buy the Briley speed wrench, put some juevos into tightening it (don't get rediculous, just "manly" tight is good). Use a good choke-tube lube as well. If carbon gets under the tube, it won't be able to really solidify with that grease in there. Also, the grease will prevent it from getting stuck for any other reason. Non-evaporating up to about 2,000*F I think it says on the tube. I leave my choke-tube in after spraying it and the threads with CLP and then greasing the threads thoroughly.

Just what worked for me, your situation may vary of course!

Edited December 10, 2009 by WS6

[WS6]

Is the RIG +P Stainless OK for a Benelli chrome-lined Crio barrel with either the stock Benelli Crio tubes, of Briley tubes?

On a serious note. The Rig should be okay. Personally I use Never Sieze. And I give the tube a check between stages too.

RIG+P is thick at room temperature, but if you get it hot it quickly liquifies. I strongly recommend something that does not evaporate and handles heat/pressure well. RIG handles pressure nicely, but I prefer something with a metallic base that will NOT! evaporate/burn-off, etc.

[VegasOPM]

Grease, heavy choke tube grease or Rig +P stainless grease, that and get in the habit of reaching out and giving it a twist every box or so of shells. The heavier the grease the less it moves on each shot. If you ever get one where it will NOT loosen under shooting odds are pretty good you are going to mangle something getting it out if you can get it out.

When I used to shoot a lot of trap, skeet and clays I just got in the habit of giving the chokes a twist before and after shooting a round. I now do it when I get the "make ready" command and after "range is clear". I won't put anything other than gun oil on the choke threads of my shotguns. It isn't worth boogering the threads.