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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

jobob

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    Idaho
  • Real Name
    Joe Durnbaugh

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Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. I found that it was the bolt cam retaining pin. Replacement was a Browning part and is just a cheap roll pin (for over $4 ea!). Replaced it and now seems to work. Hope it lasts!
  2. I've been shooting an FN SLP Mkl in 3 gun for about 4 years. This gun has been extremely reliable, up until now. I put about 10-15 rounds of slugs, Rem low recoil and Fiochi low recoil last Sunday to do some fine tuning to get the sights on. Gun worked fine. Got done shooting, cam home and put gun away. Then the next evening I took it out to practice some quad-loading and I couldn't open the bolt. No matter what I did I could not force the bolt to open. It would move about 1/4 inch and then stop. A friend and I took it apart by pulling the barrel off. Everything looks fine. Nothing broke. The only thing that looks a little weird is a floating piece that cams the bolt down from the barrel extension. This piece fell out when we disassembled the gun. It seems that my problem may be related to this little part, because it looked and felt like the bolt wasn't completely clearing the recess in the barrel extension and this part may be the key to that. Is anyone familiar with this gun and this malfunction? Is that little floating part that has the camming surface for the bolt to disengage from the barrel extension suppose to be floating, or is it suppose to be pinned in?
  3. If you are seeing something on the lands (what is a lance?) of the rifling after all that cleaning, and if you are getting keyholing, then certainly something is wrong. I built a rifle with a Criterion barrel over a year ago. It was on sale at Brownell's and I wanted to save a little money. I haven't had problems like you, but accuracy is just so-so. I'm thinking of saving my pennies and splurging on a top notch barrel this winter.
  4. I go back and forth in this regard. A quality red dot is super fast, but there is the battery issue. I guess I must be indecisive because I'm sticking with my 1-5x on top backed up by a dot on a 45 degree mount! Sounds like Open Division SHTF!
  5. Or Trijicon ACOG Reflex. Don't need no stinking batteries!
  6. I just got the PA 1-8 FFP with ACSS reticle like Alaskapopo is talking about. Not much I don't like about it, other than being very heavy! Great optis. And yes, the hold overs aren't much good at less than 4x, but for longer range you'll be cranking up the power anyway. Also, the eye box is pretty critical at 8x, but you can drop down an x or 2 and still have your hold overs. Overall it's a great scope.
  7. I have a number of scopes, but for this scenario I wouldn't choose anything that required batteries. Something made by Trijicon would be first choice in an optic. Even good old black duplex cross hairs work well in most lighting situations.
  8. I've found Bourbon to have the same effect.
  9. I have one and like it. But the stadia lines are pretty hard to see. It's designed to be used with a multiplier, which I have no plans to use. Will Burris be able to upgrade older sights to a new reticle design!
  10. 100 yards max? Try a Weaver 1-3. $150. True 1x.
  11. I like 1 1/8 with 9 shot. I shot a match a few years ago that had charcoal briquettes for targets. I'm positive that I centered several of those in the pattern of the 7.5's I was shooting, but the target wasn't touched. 9's give a denser pattern, and seem to take down steel just as well as larger shot. If I can't find 9 I get 8's.
  12. The build I put together this winter has the Colt. Not many rounds through it, but so far so good. It's super easy to adjust!
  13. MarkCo, that sounds like pretty sage advice. I love this SLP because of it's light weight and quick handling. Adding a 12 round tube just changes the feel, even empty. And I have a fear of banging it into a shooting port or some other prop. I have a +2 Nordic tube I may change to. My 1st sg for 3gun was a 26" 11-87 that had a 10 round tube and the handling was fine, if a little on the heavy side. A little off topic here, but does anyone have any idea on how to keep the Nordic tube from unscrewing? I put about 50 rounds through it the other day and tube had backed out of the nut by a half turn or so. The nut itself backed out a little, too. Blue Loctite maybe?
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