jobob

I found that it was the bolt cam retaining pin. Replacement was a Browning part and is just a cheap roll pin (for over $4 ea!). Replaced it and now seems to work. Hope it lasts!

I've been shooting an FN SLP Mkl in 3 gun for about 4 years. This gun has been extremely reliable, up until now. I put about 10-15 rounds of slugs, Rem low recoil and Fiochi low recoil last Sunday to do some fine tuning to get the sights on. Gun worked fine. Got done shooting, cam home and put gun away. Then the next evening I took it out to practice some quad-loading and I couldn't open the bolt. No matter what I did I could not force the bolt to open. It would move about 1/4 inch and then stop. A friend and I took it apart by pulling the barrel off. Everything looks fine. Nothing broke. The only thing that looks a little weird is a floating piece that cams the bolt down from the barrel extension. This piece fell out when we disassembled the gun. It seems that my problem may be related to this little part, because it looked and felt like the bolt wasn't completely clearing the recess in the barrel extension and this part may be the key to that. Is anyone familiar with this gun and this malfunction? Is that little floating part that has the camming surface for the bolt to disengage from the barrel extension suppose to be floating, or is it suppose to be pinned in?

If you are seeing something on the lands (what is a lance?) of the rifling after all that cleaning, and if you are getting keyholing, then certainly something is wrong. I built a rifle with a Criterion barrel over a year ago. It was on sale at Brownell's and I wanted to save a little money. I haven't had problems like you, but accuracy is just so-so. I'm thinking of saving my pennies and splurging on a top notch barrel this winter.

I go back and forth in this regard. A quality red dot is super fast, but there is the battery issue. I guess I must be indecisive because I'm sticking with my 1-5x on top backed up by a dot on a 45 degree mount! Sounds like Open Division SHTF!

Or Trijicon ACOG Reflex. Don't need no stinking batteries!

I just got the PA 1-8 FFP with ACSS reticle like Alaskapopo is talking about. Not much I don't like about it, other than being very heavy! Great optis. And yes, the hold overs aren't much good at less than 4x, but for longer range you'll be cranking up the power anyway. Also, the eye box is pretty critical at 8x, but you can drop down an x or 2 and still have your hold overs. Overall it's a great scope.

I have a number of scopes, but for this scenario I wouldn't choose anything that required batteries. Something made by Trijicon would be first choice in an optic. Even good old black duplex cross hairs work well in most lighting situations.

I've found Bourbon to have the same effect.

Yeah, what he said!

I have one and like it. But the stadia lines are pretty hard to see. It's designed to be used with a multiplier, which I have no plans to use. Will Burris be able to upgrade older sights to a new reticle design!

Pat, you ok?

100 yards max? Try a Weaver 1-3. $150. True 1x.

I like 1 1/8 with 9 shot. I shot a match a few years ago that had charcoal briquettes for targets. I'm positive that I centered several of those in the pattern of the 7.5's I was shooting, but the target wasn't touched. 9's give a denser pattern, and seem to take down steel just as well as larger shot. If I can't find 9 I get 8's.

The build I put together this winter has the Colt. Not many rounds through it, but so far so good. It's super easy to adjust!

MarkCo, that sounds like pretty sage advice. I love this SLP because of it's light weight and quick handling. Adding a 12 round tube just changes the feel, even empty. And I have a fear of banging it into a shooting port or some other prop. I have a +2 Nordic tube I may change to. My 1st sg for 3gun was a 26" 11-87 that had a 10 round tube and the handling was fine, if a little on the heavy side. A little off topic here, but does anyone have any idea on how to keep the Nordic tube from unscrewing? I put about 50 rounds through it the other day and tube had backed out of the nut by a half turn or so. The nut itself backed out a little, too. Blue Loctite maybe?

Well, I'm at a disadvantage I guess. I haven't invested the time or $ to learn quad-loading. Not even 2 at a time. I'm stuck in that prehistoric Era where we grab 4 and thumb them in one at a time! My shotgun stages could be timed with a calendar!

Good idea! Didn't think of Armrall!

I wish manufacturers could make a recoil pad that was slick on the outside edges to it doesn't catch on your shirt when shouldering the gun, but tacky enough on back so not to slip on your shoulder. I've been wrapping the pad with electrical tape. That's ok, until it gets hot! I tried using cheap fingernail polish for a time, and it seemed to work, until it caused the pad to soften and nearly disintegrate! Does anyone have a better solution?

Both open with every sight, every gun, every distance. Been shooting that way since I first learned to shoot.

For several years my 3-gun scope was a TR-21 1.25 - 4. Love it out to 300 yards, but with the triangle - post reticle holdovers beyond that are problematic. Having the mildot option is certainly an improvement over that, but for the price Alaskapopo is certainly right.

Thanks! Just curious as to what you guys thought. I really don't care for the handling characteristics of the long tube. I've shot matches with a 10 rounder and didn't mind that at all. Those 2 extra rounds out there just seems to make it a different gun. Perhaps a compromise with a +3 round tube would be good. I'll probably stick with the +4 though, for now. Knowing the round counts at Ironman it may be beneficial.

Glad you guys are having success with your's. Wish I could say the same. I had great hopes for it.

Let me start by saying that I really like Primary Arms. Their quality has been steadily increasing and they stand behind their products. I put one of these https://www.primaryarms.com/Primary_Arms_Advanced_Micro_Dot_with_Push_Buttons_p/md-ads.htmon a lightweight AR that I built for my daughter, and it seems to be an excellent red dot sight! Now to the PA 1-6. I've had 2 and both were shipped back to PA. The second one for a refund. The first one had a hair under the ocular lens. I though the second one was good to go, until I got to bench rest it. I wasn't happy with the groups I was getting, with lots of horizontal fliers, so I tried my Vortex Viper 1-4x and the groups shrank considerably. Went back to the PA and the groups opened up again. Then, between 2 shots I was just tightening up on the trigger and the reticle giggled, left to right! Reticles aren't suppose to do that! Anyway, that explains my horizontal fliers. I had great hopes for this scope, but in my search for a bargain I guess I went too far. I think PA may get this scope right in the future, but it's a lot to ask for at this price. Now I'm seriously looking at the Burris XTRll 1-5x. I have one of the Weaver 1-5 scopes and kinda like it, but I can't get by the front focal plane thing. The reticle is pretty fine at 1x, and too coarse at 5x. The search for the perfect scope that doesn't break the bank goes on.....

This is my favorite: http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=EX0027&ReturnUrl=Categories.aspx?Category=42e7b122-a6b4-4865-ba95-6586ae8e163f It's made in 2 heights. The standard ht. places center of scope at same level as standard irons.

I'm taking my new SLP Mk 1 to Ironman this year, shooting in TS division. I thought some extra tube length would be in order, so I installed a 4 round extension, bringing mag capacity to 12. I can see where the extra capacity may come in handy, but since I can start with only 9 in the gun, the extra cap becomes a little less important. I'd like everyone's opinion on just how worthwhile the extra 3 rounds (had a Nordic +1 on it before) considering the reduction in handling characteristics. I'm thinking of going back to the +1. What are your thoughts?