WS6

Have you heard of Razor HD 2's breaking...hardly ever? Also, if you want to throw mud, MK6 line has trash in the glass VERY often, and the turrets on the 3-18's got some issues.

I went with Cherry Balmz Black Rifle Balm grease. It's a very light grease with EP and other addatives, and the wear on my Benelli M4 SBS so far is VERY minimal. It runs with Remington STS 2.75 dram 1-1/8oz target loads from the hip, even, so I know the grease is not too thick. No change in thickness really when put in my deep freeze at -4*F, either. Compared to G96 CLP and another M4 I've used, the BRB produces MUCH better wear protection.

I ran G96 Synthetic on the cam-pin one one of my Benelli M4's and in just 200 rounds, I had began to notice wear similar to what you see on AR15's. I thought that was excessive for the system, personally. Is the grease likely to curb that?

Because I called Prime and asked them and they alleged that it was good for hunting, as well, when I specifically asked them about it.

I tried them and was not impressed with any aspect of them except recoil. Accuracy was very ho-hum, and terminally, they fragment badly when they encounter things. Total "gamer slug". If your gun likes it, rock on, but I'd restrict it to gun games. I wanted a hunting round.

Do these (M1-M4 series) like a grease on the bolt carrier rails, or an oil? I understand the constraints of temperature and grease thickness, but am asking with regards to wear? Many greases now exist that don't markedly thicken even below 0*f. Will this give better wear characteristics?

I really like my Super Nova Tactical with GRS. It cost me $349 shipped from someone on ARFcom with "less than 50 rds through it", and after inspecting it, I believed that to be honest.

Just an update, because I hate open-ended deals with no follow-up from an OP. After looking at what it would take to fully service the 1301 (spring compressor, etc.), as well as the fact that I wanted an SBS, deep down in my heart of hearts, I have a Benelli M4 Entry model with C-stock 3.5 months pending at present.

I hate owning a firearm that is "dealer service only". Also, it corrodes in there (see video). So failure to remove the piston on your own means you need to send the gun to Beretta just to clean it. That's worse than a vintage Ferrari. http://www.practical-shotgun.com/beretta-1301-gas-valve

What about this? https://www.amazon.com/Sliding-Bearing-Puller-Remover-AU005/dp/B01MDVLSZI/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MDVLSZI&pd_rd_r=YXAY4Z78XZ7H2Z7FGFPP&pd_rd_w=ydCxP&pd_rd_wg=4ksob&psc=1&refRID=YXAY4Z78XZ7H2Z7FGFPP&dpID=41M21dAySBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Would this work, if I placed a small block of wood on the back of the piston housing for the screw to press on? https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23300-Engine-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000P0VTG4/ref=sr_1_36?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1509168521&sr=1-36&keywords=spring+compressor

I can't believe there is not an actual tool for this. I only bench 285, and only have 2 hands, so I need an actual tool. I don't feel like fabbing anything up, either, if there is a proper tool out there?

Speaking of that, t he guy made his coil-spring compressor to remove the gas piston. Is it necessary? Can I remove it by hand? Do I NEED a spring compressor, if so, is there one specifically that this forum has found to be a good solution?

How are they doing, durability (broken things) and reliability (failures observed not attributed to modification/user error)? They have been out long enough now that I suspect some of the high volume shooters have had a chance to wear them out, and I am curious how they are doing, especially compared to known quantities such as the M1 and M2 benelli's. I am also curious what a good maintenance schedule for spring replacement is, and any other parts that need an eye taken to them. Ultimately, how many rounds are they seeming to go before minor niggling things break, and how long are they going before they are "hard broke" (back to the factory)? Also, Beretta claims something like 10,000 rounds between cleanings is "possible". Thoughts on this (aside from it bothering your OCD)?

Clue me in, what's the result? Caught glove in the V?

2-4" groups at 50 yards, 1" groups at 25 yards. About what I get, anyway.

Should I take this to mean that the TTI and FFT carriers could in theory reduce reliability of the Benelli platform?

Oh sweet lord. This is what Benelli CS had to say when I asked the same question....

I think this is more aimed at the "tactical" crowd and not the gamer crowd. I personally LOVE PG's on everything I own because of the added control, weapon retention, and stability that it gives me. Of course, at the cost of being able to load the shotgun the way a 3-gunner would to be competitive. That said, I am curious about this item from a mechanical perspective, and how righteous it really is on that front. A safety should never be what you rely on, but then, neither should it EVER be a questionable item, either. Kindof like a good warranty...

Is taking the shotgun down for cleaning (barrel removal) a good way to lose your zero with slugs (for the sake of this, to be off more than 1.5" at 25 yards, extrapolated out to 100, etc.), or do they return to zero imperceptibly fine?

Why do they all have a V/notch in the end? Noone could possibly think this is ergonomic for loading, so it MUST serve some sort of purpose, as it also seems it would require more time/energy to put it there vs. not. So what purpose does the V cut-out serve, functionally? What is being "given up" by going with a TTI or FFT shell lifter for the sake of ergonomics/not catching your thumb?

How? I just picked up and "dry cycled" both at the LGS. What's different?

I keep coming back to the Benelli Nova instead of the Supernova (in light of the pain the arse that the PG stock makes the Supernova to take down to field-stripped. Might as well stick with the field stock). Maybe it's the trigger guard. Other than comfortech, does the Supernova offer any advantage over the Nova? I plan on throwing a limbsaver pad on whatever I get, anyway. Is the Supernova subject to an improved moulding/internal frame design or process? Is it "slicker" to work? Does it have some upgraded formula polymer like the Gen 3 PMAG vs the Gen 2 PMAG? Does it "rattle less" like I have read some people say? You get the drift...

Thanks for the input! I kindof wish...and I know it may be seen as nitpicky...that the shotgun could be field-stripped without such pain with the PG stock. To properly field-strip it, you now need a socket wrench, and a new nut each time. The nuts used are nylock lock-nuts, and those are 1-time use, I believe, in any other industry. So each time the FCG is removed, you are out $3.99, presuming you are maintianing it to what I would consider proper mechanical standards (replacing a 1-time use nut). Maybe I'm incorrect and they changed this/it's NOT 1-time use anymore? I know the nut on the front sight of the M4 uses the same nylock system, and is 1-time only.

Now I am looking for support gear: -Night sights (I have them on all my weapons that I don't run an RDS on), only MAKO/Meprolite makes them. -Magazine extension...I am torn on GG&G and Nordic. The GG&G boasts a steel nut. Yet the Nordic has some huge supporting fan-group. I want to run a +2, slightly shorter than my barrel. I do not want to run a mag clamp. Will the Nordic back off in a few hundred rounds of slugs? Must it be checked periodically for reliability sake, or just as it's a good habit? Also, how critical is spring tension for the mag? I plan on just running a Benelli M4 7-shot custom spring rather than trimming on something until I guestimate that it's right for 7 shots. The Nordic follower seems the no-brainer option, here. -Stock...I like the OEM Steadygrip stock as to how it feels in the store. Throw a Limbsaver pad on there. Is this a bad move, is the Comfortech really so super awesome that I should give up the PG feature? I am just more comfortable with a PG stock as I shoot AR's mainly. That's about it. I just want a simple, robust setup.