HSMITH

Bart, if you decide you want to trade her off let me know.....

Spend the money to get a diesel, and it absolutely MUST have an Allison transmission. The Allison makes more difference than another 100HP in the engine and it will last.

Way to go Chris!!!

It isn't right but that is how they all are, STI's as well. Or, more precisely, in my opinion the dovetail should be snug but current industry practice is not to make the dovetail tight. You can put a shim in the dovetail to snug it up.

Your OAL is 10mm OAL, look at the 10mm data for charge weights at that length.

Now Howard, that's not true, you've not tried them all The most important thing I've found is the stock STI spring doesn't last too long. I've replaced them with Wolff extra power mag catch springs, no more mag drop. LOL, might be true, I have spent the cost of a decent production rig on them though! Even with the extra power spring it is bang click F&$K! The closest I got was milling one down so that with the button on it the release was the same height as no button on a stock unit, then I ground the button down where it was just a small tab extending back and slightly up to cut down the reach for my thumb. I only dropped one mag in 150 rounds, but that is one more than I can accept.

And to really polish your form stretch the distance on windless days or days with a constant wind. When I was shooting a lot of 3D I shot almost all of my practice at 60-90 yards. Getting LONG really magnifies errors in form, and it saves a lot of wear and tear on the arrows. It forces you to think the shot off rather than making the shot go.

They are harder than woodpecker lips. The good news is the end of the broken tap can be ground off flush and you can still use it LOL. I have drilled and tapped ONE, ruined the drill bit and the tap, plus it took me 20 minutes to get it done. No way that pays when I can buy one for $30. EDIT: The worst part about it was I put the button on and went to a steel match. Bang click F*$K!! Maybe it was just a bad grab, and I have a throw away run. Next run, bang click F&$K!!! Eating an empty chamber reload in a steel match is not a good thing. Took it off and threw it after shooting 3 more strings with my left hand barely touching the gun, ate another 3 or 4 seconds I didn't need to have added on. I have tried ALL of the buttons out there and I drop mags with all of them on a 2011. The funny part is on a single stack I can use a small button....

I run 17# mainsprings, rifle primers if seated always go bang with either an EE or Koenig hammer.

Adjust your grip until it comes back where it should in windage.

That is as good as you will get. I wouldn't trim, they get shorter every time they hit a sizing die. I'd load and shoot. .754" is the max, if they were longer you would need to trim.

Watch out for Manny in Open and Limited, and it would be crazy to discount Ted in Limited.

From one great guy to another, hard to see a downside in this one. Both are fantastic guys and tremendous assets to the sport.

If you use the Case Pro and adjust your dies right the FCD part of the FCD will never ever touch another case that is in good condition. I want my case gauge to find the problems, I do not want to smash the problems into fitting the case gauge. I will use an FCD for one purpose, crimping autoloader bullets into revolver cases. It WILL crimp a cannelure into the bullet and prevent bullet pull without ruining the case or the bullet, that is the only use I have the FCD. Used otherwise it is a band-aid at best.

Moly IS hygroscopic. You HAVE been warned. What you do about it is up to you.

EGW hard sear and the Koenig hammer are the way to go.

I'll lock mine back and pour water through the bore and over the slide. The Slide Glide doesn't get washed away and it cools the gun nicely. Not getting it wicked hot is a lot better than a little water, shake it out good, load and go. Finish with it hot and let it cool on it's own, no worries about rust. Setting it muzzle down in a bucket with just enough water in it to get to the barrel hood works best, a minute tops and it is completely cooled, but having a bucket of water on the range can be a pain.

I don't care what sight you use and what locker compound you use, it will move unless you red loct tite it and pin it. Everything else is half assed. I have tried everything else and this is what work for tens of thousands of rounds. SuperGlue works better than most methods in this thread.

Take it out, clean it up, put a PILE of red Loc tite in the dovetail and drift the sight back in to center. Clean up the mess, then drill through the sight and slide, install a roll pin covered with red Lot Tite, grind ends flush and clean up mess. Set aside for 24 hours, assemble and never worry about your front sight again. When it breaks, and it will if you shoot enough, it is a little harder to get out and replace but I won't run a dovetail front sight that isn't pinned. My match isn't going to be ruined because my sight is moving.

Solo 1000 9mm loads were some of the most consistent over the chrono at our state match a few weeks ago.

If you have ANY crimp you have too much. Just flatten the bell out. Try some different powders too. I have had good luck with the Winchester 115's.

Thanks for all the help guys. It is going to be Mavics, now I just have to find a good wheelsmith in this area. I like to do business in person if at all possible. Matt, no tabs. Bike is high end but old enough that it wasn't set up to be disc capable. I paid about 15% of the retail price new with just a couple hundred miles on it, and there wasn't a mark on it LOL. I think I got a great deal. LOVE the bike, but I'll probably end up with a FS 29'er next year and keep this one for a back up bike.

Congrats BJ, I still remember swearing in and I went in for the same reasons you did. I felt like if I were to live here and enjoy the riches of this nation I needed to do my part to keep it that way.

Exactly. MM, you could just hit it and quit it if it is still suitable for that type of activity......

That is exactly what I am afraid of I have got to chill out on spending for a bit or sell some of my gun stuff to even think about a new bike...... The Mavic is well respected, the only negative I can find on that wheel is weight (not an issue to me) and what seems to me to be poor build quality that isn't the fault of the rim. I'll probably get a set and put some slicks on the wheels I have now to burn the roads up. I can true the wheels I have now and get them really good still, I just don't like doing it.