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Reloading Press Table


riden

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Getting close to final decision on which Dillon press to buy to begin reloading. I know a rock-solid bench is essential, but don't have a lot of spare time to build something from scratch.

Of all the usual Lowe's or Home Depot packages, can anyone steer me toward something that will be suitable that you have used?

Suggestions appreciated!

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Any of the Home Depot / Lowes work benches should do.  You might want to add another layer of MDF or plywood or whatever on top to stiffen thing up a bit...especially if you don't go for the Dillon Strong Mount.  Personally, I think the Strong Mount aught to be included as standard equipment with every press...but that may just be my opinion.

I couldn't believe the change in stability in my press when I went from mounted to the bench to put on the Strong Mount.

Also, if you can, bolt the bench to the wall or the floor or both.  The more stable the bench, the more stable the loading process.  Your powder measure (among other things) will be happier if everything is rock solid.

Have fun!

(Edited by kimel at 9:49 pm on Feb. 3, 2003)

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The Dillon Strong Mount works by spreading out the footprint of the mount.  You can do the same thing by using a metal plate.  I used surplus 1/4 inch aluminum plates that were about 18 inches long and 6 inches wide.  I drilled and bolted the plates to the plywood/MDF bench top.  I drilled and tapped multiple mounting patterns on the plates so that I can swap my shotgun presses, single stage, 550s, 1050s, etc...   I also drilled extra holes in the mounting plates to hold the shell holder pins so they don't get lost when I remove them from the press to weigh charges, etc...

If you want I'll take some photos and post or email them.

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If you can find them, at one of the big box hardware stores, search out an all-wood (2x4s) workbench.  Get a sheet of plywood cut onto pieces to cover the top, and get a couple of tubes of construction adhesive.  Add an extra 2x4 from the rack.

Assemble the bench as per instructions.  Use the extra 2x4 to add stiffening crossmembers on the lower shelf and angle braces on the legs.  Goop construction adhesive on the top, tack it with a couple of finishing nails to make sure it doesn't slip, and pile every box of bullets you have on top.  Once it sets, do the same with the next sheet of plywood.

Finish by using power screws to tie the sheets and the top boards of the table together.  On the bottom shelf, store all the bullets you can.  The weight helps.  Also, to prevent rocking, place your bench on the corner of a room and if the walls are sheetrock, add bumpers on the bench to spread the load.  Use the left-over plywood to make the bumpers.

My bench sits in the corner of a concrete block building, with a ton (literal) of bullets holding it down.  It doesn't move.

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My dad and I just finished building my bench.  I think to any press bench there are two requirements.  First, it has to have a solid foundation and second a solid top.  I know you are looking to buy, but I'll just give you some spec's on mine.

Frame - 2x8 hard yellow pine ripped down to 2x4

Top - 2x8 hard yellow pine with 3/4" Oak plywood screwed to the 2x8's

Sides - 3/4" Oak plywood (over 2x4 frame)

Front - face framed solid oak

This bench literally, after the seal coat, looks like a piece of furniture (that's my dad!).  However, I can't imagine building a stronger bench.  I swear, if you jacked up a car and set it on top of this bench, I don't think it would even squeak, and is only 24"x48".  The thing must weigh over 100 lbs.  All of the perpindicular joints are Kreg with 3" screws, everything else has 3" deck or Kreg (square drive) screws.

About the top:  With the mounting kit that Dillon provides with the 650, it is made perfectly for 2x lumber with 3/4" plywood.  only 1 or two exposed threads on the the bolts when tightened.  Really cool.

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Riden,

I just built a bench for my 550b.  I needed a small bench to fit in my apartment, so I built one that's actually semi portable, but still very stable.  Here's the recipe:

I bought a steel "power tools stand" from Home Despot ($40).  It has a top only 9 X 18", but the legs are canted outward, so the base is much larger, and that adds stability.  The top has a bunch of holes in it to bolt things to, but, of course, they don't line up with the Dillon, exactly.

I also got a 2' x 4' piece of 3/4" sanded birch plywood ($14), and had 2 pieces cut to 18" x 24", and one piece cut to fit under the top surface of the steel bench (about 9" x 17").  I glued and screwed the 18x24 pieces together for the bench top.  The bench top gets bolted through the holes in the steel tool bench, through the 3rd piece of plywood beneath it.  The Dillon is mounted directly to the wood, on the narrow side of the bench, to get maximum stability against the forward torque applied by the operating handle.

The forward two holes on the Dillon didn't line up, so the bolts only go through the top 2 pieces of plywood, and had to be countersunk underneath.

The back two holes go through all 3 layers of plywood and the steel benchtop.

The power tool stand also has a shelf about 11 x 17 in the middle, where I can put tools and supplies.  I put boxes of bullets there to weigh the thing down.  

The bench is stable, but not rock solid.  I find if I grab the leg of the bench and pull on it while I'm pushing to seat the primers that it doesn't move at all, but it will move slightly otherwise.

Still, it is small, relatively cheap and stable, and somewhat portable, and fairly easy to put together although it was tricky to get all the holes drilled in the plywood in the right order, and to get them all to line up properly.

Anyway, hope you can follow most of that.

Good luck,

DogmaDog

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Oh, just thought I'd add:

I've loaded about 300 rounds so far on the new Dillon, with a lot of tinkering and experimentation and tweaking it took quite a while, but I'm getting the hang of it.  

I went to the range and chronographed some, 15 rounds each from 3 lots of 50, .45 cal going 700 to 800 fps (I wanted to load up some wimpy stuff, just to be safe, and make sure I was doing everything reasonably close to right).  I also chrony'd some S&B factory ammo, and I found that the largest standard deviation in my homemade ammo, about 17fps, was similar to the factory stuff (15 fps), while the lot where I didn't mess with the crimp or seating depth at all while loading was down around 10fps for std. D.

So I suppose that's some indication that my bench is stable enough.  I think.  

DogmaDog

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Spiffy.. The coolest one I've seen was at a local gun store-- it had metal T-channels running the length to mount tooling on whever needed.   I forgot the mfg .  The Holumber benches are also popular as high-end kit-built benches too.

For basic reloading, don't think that if it isn't as solid as four inches concrete it won't work-- I and many others started out loading with a press clamped to a kitchen table.   Most any off-the-shelf workbench will be acceptable.  Feel free to strengthen/modify as needed later..

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OK here are some photos of my press mounting brackets.  I didn't have time to remove a press to show the tapped holes for the various presses.

550/RCBS bracket

post-1467-1141804079.jpg

550s

post-1467-1141804097.jpg

shellplate pins

post-1467-1141804112.jpg

1050 bracket

post-1467-1141804128.jpg

Edited by Nolan
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It looks as if one could eat off Nolan's bench. :)

I went to Home Despot and got a Gorilla Rack steel frame workbench and a big-honkin' thick heavy top to add to it. Screwed it to the wall with an angle bracket. That and all bullets and a lot of loaded rounds stored on the lower shelf Sweeney-style keep it very stable.

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  • 2 months later...

If you load in the garage or a shop area secure whatever bench you use to the back wall. A ledger board of 2x4 or 2x6, screwed to the back wall, will make a good surface to screw or bracket the bench solid to the wall and help the space of the usual concrete footing at the base of the wall. I've found the best height to be the same height as a kitchen counter. That way you can comfortably stand or sit on a bar stool when you work. Also, if you use a Strong Mount your bench top won't have to be as stiff as without one. A bench that high with the strong mount puts the index and bullet tray at the perfect standing height (I'm 6 ft).

Loading benches get cluttered and it seems there's never room for components and loaded rounds. A great tip is to spring for about $29.95, on sale, at your auto parts store for a mechanics' table on castors and adjustable for height. Mine has enough adjustment to raise even above my bench.

Don't throw out the idea of building your own bench. I built one almost 30 yrs ago with 4x4 posts for legs, 2x4 frame, 3/4 ply shelves and a glued and screwed double layer top of ext. 3/4 plywood finished with a leather grained Formica top (tough, easy to clean and keeps shot from rolling around). I have a big vice and three loaders mounted to it and it has survived all my loading and moves without a creak or crack. It's well work the extra effort and affordable!!

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A quick and easy start to a loading / work bench is a SOLID core smooth door. You can usually find them at discount or surplus building supply stores for $15-$25. They’re very sturdy and just about the right size. If not, just cut them down.

As far as height goes, my Dad told me once “make the bench the same height as the root of your c… uh… private part”, it works great!

Ed

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  • 2 years later...

For loading standing up, with a 550B on a strong mount, my bench is right at 43" to the table plane... This lines the roller handle up with my shoulder almost exactly (I'm 5'-10" tall). I can tailor the height using the leveling adjusters on the legs.

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Hey, Bronson7, where'd you dig up the slick scale leveling board??

I made it out of a wood/plastic laminated cutting board from Wallyworld, four T nuts, four brass screws, four brass acorn nuts and a two- plane level from Lowes. I would have prefered a bullseye level but coudn't find one in my area.

Bronson7

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Nope, looks pretty solid. BTW, I learned from building speakers, that if you "spike" them, they absolutely won't move.

On mine, I need away to make sure the top was level, so I used a threaded insert, hex nut, and hex bolt (3/8") to make an adjustable leg (like a washing machine et al.)

It's not a true spike, but it acts like one. You simply can't move my bech unless you are trying.... Of course the thing IS pretty stinkin' heavy to begin with. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
A quick and easy start to a loading / work bench is a SOLID core smooth door.  You can usually find them at discount or surplus building supply stores for $15-$25.  They’re very sturdy and just about the right size.  If not, just cut them down.

As far as height goes, my Dad told me once “make the bench the same height as the root of your c… uh… private part”, it works great!

Ed

Keith Brown's Bargain Shed was great for that.

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