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Bronson7

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  1. Rather than a rag... Put a cup hook in the bottom of the work table and hang a small pail under the ram. I like that, Graham. Good idea. Bronson7
  2. Ok, here's one: The spent primer removal system on the LM is a pita (to me anyway) so I removed the little door and all it's attaching parts, including the spring/friction washer. The opening is now considerably larger and spent primers will easily flow out. I just stuff a small piece of rag in the hole and after each session or two I remove it. The primers easily fall out. Bronson7
  3. HS, certainly not my intention to insult anyone, especially you. I'm just constantly wondering why so many folks have problems with the LM when mine works VERY well. I don't get it. I destroyed one "cheesey" nylon part (primer slider) on my LM and it was my fault (and now I know what NOT to do). Not counting the primer tray/trough, there are only two nylon parts in the priming system. As far as the indexing system: I have no idea what your talking about. The only part that's plastic is the flipper on the end of the indexing rod and I can't envision someone destroying that. Thinking in three dimensions goes a long way in setting up the LM. I'm sorry you and your buddy have had bad experiences with the LM but for me, it's been a joy. Again HS, I value your input and certainly didn't intend to insult you or anyone else. Bronson7
  4. Unless you do not mind the Loadmaster idiosyncrasies drive you insane. I still have my Loadmaster I started loading 45 ACP, 30-06 and 22-250, and I can tell, it works but it is far away what you expect from a progressive machine. It will jam frequently as you try to speed up to – let’s say – 200 rounds / hour. I still have it set for my 45 ACP loads, but I try to get mentally prepared before starting reloading. I do have mechanical abilities, but it is not the case with the Loadmaster. I like the Loadmaster, but in my opinion it has 2 major design problems: 1) the case feeder slider movement is driven by the crank slider, which is adjusted by friction. As you reload and depending the amount of cases you have in the tube, pressuring the feeder slide against its base, the friction amount changes and the case does not go all the way to the shell plate 2) the primer feeding mechanism is driven by shaking (the primer tray), and by a small plastic finger and arm which will be crushed soon or later. There is no adjustment for the primer feeder, and sideways and upside down primer is quite frequent. I found these problems very annoying to the point I stopped using it for my rifle calibers and bought another machine (not Lee) for my 40 cal loads. I also have heard that several people are actually happy with their Loadmaster, but just keep in mind that these problems do exist whether or not they bother you. Case feeder operation: Primer operation: Funny, my priming system and case feeder work flawlessly. As a matter of fact, my entire LM works flawlessly. The big problem people have with the case feeder is that they don't set it up with a full tube of brass (pretty obvious what would happen otherwise). As far as primer problems, a simple check for flash on the slider and cleanliness goes a long way. One of the biggest problems I've seen with people's set-ups is the press is mounted to a flimsy bench causing the primers to bounce around on the punch. Depriming in station #1 and sizing in #2 also greatly aids in the priming operation. No, I ain't buying all these problems people are having due to the machines design. It's plain and simply due to ignorance (I'm not using that in a derogatory manner) concerning how the LM works The thing with the LM is it's all in the set-up. If you don't have the patience nor the ability, then yes, pay three times as much for another press. I've owned two Dillon 500s and a Square Deal and for me the LM runs circles around them. Bronson7
  5. The Load Master is a fine press if it's set up correctly. I've cranked out thousands of rounds on mine with no problems other than those that were self induced. My priming and case feed systems are faultless. I'm not ashamed to say I love this press. I've had way less problems with it than my 550 (which I hated with a purple passion) If you're an intelligent person with a modicum of mechanical savy, you will not have a problem with the LM. All the the problems you hear, are from the "parrots" and from those who couldn't or wouldn't take the time to set one up. As was mentioned earlier, watch the videos on youtube and you won't go wrong. There has been a resurgence in the popularity of the LM, now that set-up instructions/videos are more detailed. More and more folks are enjoying this very capable and affordable press. Bronson7
  6. The Lee charge bar is notoriously inconsistent with smaller charges. The problem is in the geometry of the thing, ie it doesn't line up with the hopper. I was reading where a Pro Disc user was using a micro disc in conjunction with a standard disc (along with the spacer kit) to get his charges down to .1 grn increments. Of course one would probably be limited by the amount of the target charge. There's an excellent forum that specifically deals with all things Lee:http://loadmastervideos.com/ Check them out Cappy, those guys are great and will give you the correct info. They could possibly give you the skinny on the Dillon measure/turret. Happy loading (And shooting) Bronson7
  7. Cappy, the Dillon is a lot heavier than the Lee powder drop. While the Dillon works fine on Lee stationary heads, you may experience some timing/indexing issues trying to sling that Dillon around. I'm not sure that would happen,just something to think about. Used in your application, there would be no failsafe (The Lee doesn't have it either for the turret presses), the bell crank assy would need to be be modified some and springs would need to be wrapped around the hopper/powder bar. What problems are you having with your Lee? I'm running a Load Master and the Pro disk is working very well. Bronson7
  8. Graham, check to see if you have any foriegn material on the primer punch. A flake of powder on the punch, believe it or not, will leave an imprint on the primer. Bronson7
  9. There's a STICKY on this subject at the top of the forums list. Bronson7
  10. +1 There are at least two basic versions of the shape of 200 gr lead SWC bullets. Some are referred to as a blunt nose and the other closer to the classic H&G 68 mold. Therefore the appropriate OAL must be used specific to the the SWC variation. Another peculularity I have found is that jacked bullets seemed to run well with a crimp to of .470 - .471 but lead bullets seem to run more reliably at .469. Lastly, with lead bullets the Lee Factory Crimp Die seems to cure many feed issues with tight chambers. Good luck, MJ +2 When I load lead SWCs, I seat the bullet to about a thumbnail's thickness from the shoulder, then use that as my oal. The difference in crimp that MJ mentions is due to the extra thousanths for cast bullets. You're probably not going to get away using the same set-up you use for your RNs. Take out your barrel and drop your SWC cartriges in the chamber. They should fall in with an audible clink and drop out by their own weight. If they don't, increase your crimp a bit. I wouldn't go beyond .469". If you have a tight chamber, the FCD will help you out (although I personally don't care for the thing). Bronson7
  11. Those ripples are a common problem . The real reason for the ripples is not so much over-tightening but insufficient edge distance (which is practically non existent). Those ripples can also be found on new units where, I believe, due to not enough edge distance, the metal is being bowed outward during the drilling/threading operation. IMO, it's a design problem that may or may not affect the slides operation. It's crazy for Dillon not to expect over-tightening, when they use allen screws to hold the housing on. I would think that knurled thumb screws would be the way go. PS Take everything I've said with a grain of salt because I hate the 550's primer feed system with a purple passion. Bronson7
  12. Oregan's are good bullets, but there are equally good bullets out there for much less. Way over priced in my opinion. Bronson7
  13. Agreed. If you're using a concave seating stem, you can check the consistency of your bullets by picking 10-15 of them at the same length (+/- .001" and making sure the sprue doesn't exstend beyond the base), remove the stem from your seating die, and measure the total length of bullet/seating stem with the stem on the bullet. That variation should be what you see on the finished rounds. If it's wildly different, then the problem is elsewhere. Bronson7
  14. Scott, I've been using them for a while now. My range gun, a Glock 21SF, has a light stricker spring and they all go bang. Bronson7
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