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*I* Brass


ShooterSteve

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I've been purchasing some once fired brass, and it usually comes with mixed headstamps, and it all runs ok through my Dillon 650, except for this brass with a *I* headstamp. The primers are not punching out of it. My sizing die is all the way down to the shell plate, and all of the other headstamps do fine. Has anyone else had goofy results with this brass?

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Independance is made in Brazil. I picked some up from Sportsmans Warehouse and have 1or 2 K of the stuff on hand that i have fired over the years. I reload it and then let some one else pick it up later. I have never had a problem with it and wont throw it away if i pick some up. But if I fire it myself I don't go out of my way to pick it up as I would for something like Winchester or Speer. Lately I find I am using off brand (junk) brass to shoot matches and good brass to practice with because I can get it back after I practice, but it's too much hassel to pick it up at a match.

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:surprise:

So what is it that makes junk brass junk and good brass good ? In my mind it would be brass that causes functioning or acuracy problems. If that is the case seems to me kinda backwards to use good brass for practice junk brass for matches.

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:surprise:

So what is it that makes junk brass junk and good brass good ? In my mind it would be brass that causes functioning or acuracy problems. If that is the case seems to me kinda backwards to use good brass for practice junk brass for matches.

To me it seems softer than other brands. I noticed that it also seems to tarnish/discolor faster if not picked up right away. Also when reloading, if the primer doesn't want to come out or go in, its just not worth it to me to use it for reloading. If I have to stop every 8~10 rounds and clear press and then check each station and start over, not worth it. I don't throw it away but I seperate out my brass and when the "junk" (stuff I don't want to use) gets full I take it the club and let someone who wants to use it take it.

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...The primers are not punching out of it...

Do you mean that it's hard to push the primer out of the pocket (don't want to come out at all) or that they stick on the punch and get drawn back into the pocket?

Swaged primers, I think, can cause the first problem, no? I just got some mixed brass that I haven't finished processing yet, and there's a lot of *I* brass in it, but no swaging of the pockets that I can see. A sharp/burred/bent punch could cause drawback, but it ought to happen to all brands of brass, unless there is something different about the primer itself (different type of anvil catching the tip, maybe?).

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:surprise:

So what is it that makes junk brass junk and good brass good ? In my mind it would be brass that causes functioning or acuracy problems. If that is the case seems to me kinda backwards to use good brass for practice junk brass for matches.

To me it seems softer than other brands. I noticed that it also seems to tarnish/discolor faster if not picked up right away. Also when reloading, if the primer doesn't want to come out or go in, its just not worth it to me to use it for reloading. If I have to stop every 8~10 rounds and clear press and then check each station and start over, not worth it. I don't throw it away but I seperate out my brass and when the "junk" (stuff I don't want to use) gets full I take it the club and let someone who wants to use it take it.

I get that with a piece of brass that has a Delta stamped on it... anyone know what this is? Resize is a lot harder and I've been pulling them out and pitching them.

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I haven't had any problems with the Independence brass in any of the calibers I shoot (.40, 9mm, .45.) S&B is the only one that's given me priming fits. I'll load the *I* brass I get in batches of used brass that I buy, but I leave it on the range after firing. I try to recover the 'A' list brands (Win, R&P, Speer, Federal) and leave everything else behind. I figure I'm safer with multiple reloadings of the top name brass, but who knows. Hard to tell how many times a case gets fired. I'd like to think I lose 'em before the point of excessive reloading is reached.

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Thanks for the help guys. Sounds like some mixed reviews. What it is doing is, the primer is not punching out, and when it goes to the primer seat station, obviously the new primer has no where to go. I have to stop, pull that piece of brass etc... You know how you get in a rythem with a Dillon and they run and you can turn out a lot of ammo, but when you have to stop every 20 rds and pull a piece of brass it just makes it no fun. The primers are getting pushed as you can see them bowed out on the bottom, but either they aren't getting pushed out, or they are getting pulled back up. None of the other headstamps are giving me trouble, but this brand is consistantly messing up. I just really have to pay attention to how the upstroke feels and seat that primer. I know that you need to do that anyway, but now it really makes a difference. Thanks again. Steve

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I get that with a piece of brass that has a Delta stamped on it... anyone know what this is? Resize is a lot harder and I've been pulling them out and pitching them.

I have picked up several of those with the primer allready fallen out. (9mm)

A shooting buddy of mine reloaded some and the loose primer pockets caused him problems.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just an update, it is still doing it. I have just accepted that this brass is going to be difficult. All of the other brands in a mixed batch of once fired goes through fine, but if a primer doesn't seat, and I pull the brass out of the press, there is still a fired primer in it and it is *I* every single time. 100% :angry:

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Maybe it is time to start asking about the brand of depriming die & whether or not the depriming pin is screwed down far enough. The Indepence brass that I have has a concave base (like Speer) so the pin should have less distance to travel to pop out the primer. Make sure the deprime pin is not sharp and pulling the primer back in.

I suffer from OCD so all brass is sorted by head stamp after cleaning, then deprimed on a RCBS RockChucker so if a case deprimes easier or harder than the one before it gets a special look.

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