Too much powder? 9mm

[Karlshoots]

Hello, 

 

I just started reloading 9mm. I am using HP-38. 
 

The label says 5.1 grains(115 grain bullet) 

 

me thinking I’m being conservative decided to load 150 bullets at 4.5. They are 147 grain bullets. After I finished I decided to take the time to actually look it up. 
 

hodgdons website says to use a max load of 3.4. 
 

my question is am I gonna blow my gun up or will it just kick a little hard? 
 

shooting out of a Glock 17 Gen 4 

[Alaskapopo]

Pull those immediately. Yes that is way over pressure. What the heck read a manual next time. 

[Karlshoots]

1 minute ago, Alaskapopo said:

Pull those immediately. Yes that is way over pressure. What the heck read a manual next time. 

Cool will do. I bought the stuff to pull them but thought I’d ask before I did haha 

[HesedTech]

1 hour ago, Karlshoots said:

Cool will do. I bought the stuff to pull them but thought I’d ask before I did haha 

If you want to reload you must get a chronograph to check bullet speed. Then think this way, light bullets more powder heavy bullets less powder. The 115 grain loads are normally far to heavy for 147 gr. 
 

Typically starting loads for 147 gr are around 3.0 gr of powder. 
 

Look up the burn rate charts for various powders and compare to what you have on hand. 

[Sarge]

When I first started reloading somebody on this forum said reloading presses should include a chronograph. They are that critical to the process.

  But I will politely reiterate the importance of reading a manual or checking online for load data.

[RangerTrace]

All good suggestions here.

[OSP737]

On the bright side, you asked before you fired these rounds.......good move on that.

[Karlshoots]

Thanks everyone! I have learned the errors of my ways haha! All bullets were pulled. I guess I have God to thank for sending me the prompting of looking up load data before actually firing them. Won’t make that mistake again. 

[chopps]

If not a chrono then atleast paper @ 15 yds will help.

[ysrracer]

This is my revolver load

 

Name: 9mm: 148gr Blue RN: Win 231 3.3gr: Fed Case: OAL 1.195: S&W 929
Notes: S&W 929
Shots: 4
Average: 860 ft/s
SD: 11 ft/s
Min: 843 ft/s
Max: 872 ft/s
Spread: 29 ft/s
Power Factor Average: 127
Power Factor Low: 124
Power Factor High: 129
Barometric Pressure: 29 in Hg
Temperature: 72 F
Weight: 148.0 gr.
Powder/Wt: Win 231/3.3gr
Bullet/Wt: Blue 148gr RN
Primer: Fed SPP
Case: Fed
OAL: 1.195
Gun: S&W 929 / 5" barrel

[Powder Finger]

What label said 5.1????

[Farmer]

2 hours ago, Powder Finger said:

What label said 5.1????

Hodgdon but for a 115g Bullet. 

[Jim Watson]

I loaded a 147 gr 9mm with 3.2 gr HP38 for about 900 fps f 132 in 1911 and 2011.  Worked for either coated or plated.

Edited July 18, 2023 by Jim Watson

[99mpower]

OP: do you know how to calculate power factor? Do you have a chrono?

 

Id guess with HP-38, that somewhere in the 3.0-3.3gn would be right for a 147gn bullet. 

 

Make sure you chrono, and calculate power factor for approx 131-134PF, so that temperature, and any variability gets reduced, so that you never chrono under 125PF at matches. No need to run it that close to legal, unless you are shooting GSSF, or something that doesnt check

[Powder Finger]

21 hours ago, Farmer said:

Hodgdon but for a 115g Bullet. 

I don’t know what to say to that except you need to get a manual read and understand it before you get hurt good luck 

[Powder Finger]

For op not Farmer

[m700]

The chrony isn't necessary unless you load to max or beyond. If you stay in the range, FOR THE CORRECT BULLET, you will be safe. If you are pushing for major then get a chrony. Other than that if you are aiming for extreme consistancy it would also be nice.

 

For pistol I load to function/accuracy not PF so I never hit max loads.

[IVC]

On 7/19/2023 at 7:38 AM, m700 said:

The chrony isn't necessary unless you load to max or beyond. If you stay in the range, FOR THE CORRECT BULLET, you will be safe. If you are pushing for major then get a chrony. Other than that if you are aiming for extreme consistancy it would also be nice.

 

For pistol I load to function/accuracy not PF so I never hit max loads.

That's not a good way to be safe. The load data will rarely be for the exact bullet you're using, let alone for the current batch. Bullet molds change over time, processes change, materials change. Not to mention the load data is based on the specific barrel the manufacturer uses, so while you might be safe in the sense that the gun won't blow up, you're diminishing your safety margin (you don't even know where it is) as the peak pressure and the muzzle velocity could be anything. 

 

Chronograph is necessary, and so is watching for the signs of overpressure. Even if you get the expected muzzle velocity, it doesn't mean that the pressure was safe at all times during the burning process. In this case, the more you know and observe, the better. Sure you can get away with doing less than is prudent, but that's not, well... prudent. 

[m700]

3 hours ago, IVC said:

That's not a good way to be safe. The load data will rarely be for the exact bullet you're using, let alone for the current batch. Bullet molds change over time, processes change, materials change. Not to mention the load data is based on the specific barrel the manufacturer uses, so while you might be safe in the sense that the gun won't blow up, you're diminishing your safety margin (you don't even know where it is) as the peak pressure and the muzzle velocity could be anything. 

 

Chronograph is necessary, and so is watching for the signs of overpressure. Even if you get the expected muzzle velocity, it doesn't mean that the pressure was safe at all times during the burning process. In this case, the more you know and observe, the better. Sure you can get away with doing less than is prudent, but that's not, well... prudent. 

 

Most manufacturers will post data. If you are casting or buying bullets that arent posted loading like for like isnt going to get you in too much trouble. But a Blue Bullet RN 147 like you said will not build the same pressure as another say a DG RN 147. But as long as you are on the lower end of the data shown for the oposing one you will not get in Big Trouble.  A chrony will give you more information but a beginning reloader doesn't need to run out and buy one if he is aiming for a functional round. Id venture to say 90% of reloaders are not using a Chronograph. I have one and use it though

[stick]

Always review load data from the manufacturer, match the bullet as closely as possible. Note the min and max load for YOUR particular projectile's bullet weight.  Find out your guns Max OAL with the plunk test.  Same weight loads will have different pressure determined by OAL of the round.  Shorter OAL's will have higher pressure than longer OAL's.  Start light and work up.  For example, if the minimum is 3.4g and the max is 4.2g, start at 3.4g and load 10 rounds.  next load 10 rounds of 3.6g, 3.8g, 4.0g then 4.2g.  Take the rounds to the range and put each batch through a chrono and record the data.  Check each case and look for high pressure signs.  You should also write down how each load worked through the gun.  Did the gun function correctly?  Did you notice how sights, or dot moved, how was the felt recoil, was the gun sluggish? etc.  Then, if you're shooting competition (USPSA, IDPA) calculate your power factor and take the best load and go back looking to modify your current load.  If 3.8g was best for you, I would load up 3.7g, 3.8g and 3.9g and go back to the range to verify.  Once you've determined the best load, you're ready to reload rounds for the gun. 

[Chapo]

I usually use several load books for reference.  They will have different loads for the same bullet weight and powder combination, but I just select an average of all suggested.