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About HesedTech

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  1. Do everything the same with the Limited you did with the S2. Polish, parts, springs, and whatever make them the same.
  2. What bullet weight? Look up closest lead bullet weight in the powder charts and then start with lowest charge. With OAL as the exception, nose profile for sub sonic rounds is the least factor for your charge. https://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?page=/reloaders/powderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=42&cartridge=26 https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/cowboy-action-reloading/?cartridge=40 If you don't have one, get a Chronograph to determine velocity of the charge. Trying to "read" primers won't help much.
  3. Maybe, depends on what is in the gun now. I have the Henning flat trigger in a Limited and I remembered you will need a trigger return spring and since the Henning trigger was slightly thinner than the stock one, it's been awhile, but I believe I trimmed down the pin which goes through the trigger bar for a flush fit. I would get a new of those. I believe I uses the same trigger pivot pin. You will also need to check and see which firing pin is installed and if it still has the firing pin block plunger and spring.
  4. I have a G19 build, no comp, and with a lightened recoil spring it eats all my 130ish (in TF and CZ) PF 147s no problem. So I assume it's the comp which is causing you some sort of problem. I assume your slide rails are smooth and free? This is the recoil spring combo I'm using: https://www.ndzperformance.com/Glock-19-Recoil-Spring-Guide-Rod-Kit-Gen-1-3-p/ndz-g19-g3-rpr.htm Personally, other than the weight difference, my TF S2 and my son's CZ Shadow 2 shoot a whole lot softer with less recoil than the 19, not to mention having smoother triggers. But I do have fun shooting the 19 and it is a better/lighter carry gun than my USPSA competition stuff.
  5. Sport Pistol works great. Recently heard Shooters World Clean Shot is also a good and economical alternative.
  6. This works good: https://patriotdefense.com/xtreme-tanfoglio-double-action-trigger/ You will also need a disconnect or/Bolo and your hammer may not be correct. Addition parts you will probably need: https://patriotdefense.com/xtreme-titan-hammer-1/ https://patriotdefense.com/patriot-defense-bolo-interrupter-pin/ It’s not hard to convert, just may require fitting to make it shoot reliably.
  7. I guarantee these will load long and will not “compress” your powder. https://precisionbullets.com/product/9mm-356-diameter/ If the Flat Nose is an isssue these have a more tapered RN https://www.snscasting.com/new-red-9mm-115-grain-round-nose-coated-500ct/ Both profiles load longer
  8. Good morning! Read through again and I am starting to think your issues are from two areas. The whole bur thing seems a bit strange so this AM I grabbed some range brass pre-processed from both my gun and pick-up (unknown gun). The three on the right are my TF S2 gun and an un-shot load (which was picked up after ejected during unload). The left are from someones gun. I only noticed a very slight bur. Here are three processed and cleaned casing ready to be reloaded. I don't see any burs or any significant marks from the sizing die. I personally don't think lube or more crimp is your issue. Of course my opinion doesn't really matter, but I think you issues are a combo of bullet size, length and diameter, range brass variety and the crimp die taper is shorter/quicker. I would recommend changing bullets to .356 or to a different OGIVE. If you're set on staying with coated and 147 I find these work best in all our 9mms. http://www.acmebullet.com/bullets-reloading-brass/9MM-Lead-Cast-Reloading-Bullets/9mm-147-FP-NLG-Coated https://precisionbullets.com/product/9mm-147-fp/ (these come in 125 and 115 grains) https://www.snscasting.com/new-9mm-147-grain-flat-point-red-coated-500ct/ They are all the same profile (flat point not truncated cone), load longer and therefore not as deep (bulge issues) into the case. I use these for FMJ: https://www.precisiondelta.com/products/9mm-147gr-fmj/ I also have had great success with these, but chose to stick with 147s and the profile loads longer than other JHP: https://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets/9mm-124gr-jhp-rn-v2.html I also found this crimp die has the smoothest and most gradual taper: https://www.dillonprecision.com/crimp-dies_8_4_24483.html After much trial, error and frustration this is what works for me. Using range pick up brass I have less than a 1% failure rate for any reason after reloading. I hope this helps.
  9. Ok I went back to the first post and I have to ask, is the bur before or after sizing? You said the bur was on all your brass so you need to identify when in the process the bur occurs. Inspect brass pre-process to make sure there are no burs. Run through first die and inspect. I assume your first process stage is de-capping and sizing in one step. Inspect brass, is there a bur? Yes, then you found the problem. No move to next step, seating primer. Yes, No continue... You get the idea. The mystery grows.
  10. Ok here's some pics of my standard 9MM 147 ACME (Precision Bullets are identical) load .356 that works in all our guns. Notice no indent on bullet.
  11. I've experienced the same marks on the brass from the Lee crimp die and is one of the reasons I don't use it. I believe it's because of the lack of smoothness in the die near the top of the taper. BTW are you committed to .357 bullets? If not, if not shoot em up and try .356. Personally out of multiple guns I found little to no difference in accuracy or leading between .356 - .358. what I did find was .356 had far less problems than the others and accuracy quality was more about the powder charge than diameter. I believe the standard size for Blues is .355 and people load and love em.
  12. Looking at the pulled bullet crimping more may cause accuracy issues. What is the diameter? .356, .357, .358? Could it be you are using .357 or .358? If so they often cause more troubles with gauging. Edit: I see you added the .357 and yes they are harder to make work. I have a Hornady crimp die and for me the crimps are not as smooth as the Dillon. What happen was it took more "crimp" to get the same results as the Dillon and thus dented my coated bullets way too much. The Lee taper crimp die (not the Factor Crimp) worked similar to the Dillon. I found the Hornady bullet seating die pressed the bullet in place straighter than Dillon, Lee and even the super expensive Redding Comp (yes I have one). In 40 SW the basic Dillon worked the best for seating. One more edit: This is the die set I found works with all the range brass (CBC is a pain) and bullets I've tested (coated up to .358 however I use .356 Precision Bullet & ACME for coated, ) and have run close to 30K with the combo. Dillon sizing die (Lee works too) MBF Powder funnel Hornady Seating with Micro adjust (although really not needed) Dillon taper crimp die This combo just works and cranks out round after round with almost zero failures in Shockbottle gauge. Some times one has to try various dies to find the optimal one for the combination of products being used. Yes the $$$ add up. Keep at it, eventually you will have a nearly perfect and consistent load. Hope all this helps.
  13. First many of us find this to be untrue, especially with coated and plated bullets. Tumbling often happens as a result of indented bullets. Second the OP doesn’t mention which dies and powder funnel are being used. I found the Lee Sizing and taper crimp dies pretty much smooth it all out. Many of us use the MBF powder funnel, but that won’t work with the Lee powder drop. Maybe use the NOE expander prior to the powder drop? I’ve had good luck with it in the past. For 9 mm I found the Dillon taper crimp die gives me the smoothest taper crimp possible. Keep posting your progress.
  14. ^^^ This I have personally tested a few coated bullets* to see if the coating comes off and without a doubt Precision Bullet is the toughest. I tested by shooting with multiple guns (poly and traditional rifling) the bullets into a trap and inspecting them. None of the Precision Bullets showed any bare lead, the coating remained intact on the entire bullet. Because of this I purchased a large bulk order and when my ACMEs are gone I will be all in with Precision Bullet. Cost was just over 6 cents a round. BTW, My experience shooting the sample pack of 125 Brazos was an occasional feed issue do to the step/ridge from the base to where the ogive begins. Didn't shoot enough to see if they caused a lot of lead build up. *ACME, Eggelston, Blues, SNS, Brazos, Precision Bullets all 125 & 147 9MM .356, .357, .358
  15. Federal SPP. They are very clean and normally almost no residue. Load for Tanfoglios and CZs so need the softer primers.
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