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About HesedTech

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    Calls Shots

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    Just can’t trust internet.

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  1. Hope this helps: 1. TG loads just fine and like all high density powders the case can be double charges easier. So, just make sure your loading process is consistent. Nothing to be afraid of. 2. I loaded 1.08 147 RN coated over 3.1 grains of TG for a Shadow 2 (10k BTW) with zero issues. Change bullets because that short and deep into the case was a pain. CBC brass tended to bulge. 3. Loading 124 RMR JHP .355 over 3.8 Sport Pistol for a PCC at 1.08. Works fine. Build a loading process which is reliable, has checks, crank away, and then go shoot.
  2. ??? It all depends on how the press is set up and what bullets are being used. Personally I use an expander die and the DA powder funnel on my 1050 for coated .356 bullets. The expander die allows a more accurate and straight seating of the bullet and the DA funnel set the bell and case mouth for the bullet to properly sit and not tilt or fall out as it rotates to the seating die. Basically explain your blanket statement, I find the DA funnel a very good alternative for 9, 40 and 45 loading over the stock Dillon on my 1050.
  3. Did you polish the sides of the sear where it contacts the cage? Polish the sear pivot pin, the sear cage sides which contact the sear and the sear sides. The only reason the sear would get stuck is a bad surface on one of the parts. Since you’ve tried multiple sears the cage inside surfaces could be your main problem. The sear should rotate smoothly in the cage even with a weak spring. Here’s a link to Memphis Mech video
  4. It's "dirtier" than Sport Pistol and Shooter's world "Clean Shot." My experience also found "dirty" seems to be because of the extra heat TG has and how it effects the coating and bases of the bullets used. In general I find "HiTech" coated bullets "dirtier" and smoke more than the coating on Blue Bullet, Precision Bullet or J-Ames bullets. Also exposed lead bases on FMJRN bullets were also dirtier than the above coated or Jacketed bullets with bases covered. Hope this helps. BTW if TG is all you can get it loads and shoots fine.
  5. Dies: Dillon size/decapping. MBF or Alpha powder funnel MBF Dillon or Hornady seating die. Dillon taper crimp die. That’s all you need. Lee dies work, but Dillon dies are designed to work with their progressive presses. Don’t seat and crimp with same die unless you have no other choice.
  6. If you’re shooting minor PF the differences in OAL will not cause you any “pressure” issues, what it will do is not optimize the load for a particular gun. Personally, with the distances we shoot accuracy is adequate using one load in all my guns. However, I was sighting in red dots on two “fun guns,” both PCCs, with my pistol load of 147 130+ PF. At 25 yards one of them shot a 1+” group and the other was 2.5” using the same ammo. If I were to optimize the the ammo for each gun I think it would be a pain.
  7. My experience with the Redding Comp Seating die for 9mm and 40SW was exactly the same, basically a lot of money for bad results. I found the Hornady Seating die the best for guiding the bullet straight into the case and it cost substantially less. Even the Dillon seating die worked better than the Redding.
  8. 3.6 grains 135 James FP Tanfoglio S2 130+ PF 25 yards inside 3” group from hand held freestyle. Same load from cheap PCC, Keltec, even more accurate. With 147 PD RNFMJ 3.4 grains accurate, ACME FP 147 3.3 grains same. After 10lbs of the powder no issues in all my guns. Just as accurate as TG.
  9. I have a G19 Gen 5 and the issue is the new more accurate chamber of the Gen 5. Basically it’s a tight chamber and the bullet has engaged the rifling. The issue is commonly written about on many forums, here’s just one: https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/glock-gen-5-wont-chamber-once-in-a-while.1783428/ https://www.lightfighter.net/topic/glock-19-gen-5-mos-ejection-issue?reply=120669485158081293 The second one is the OP on another forum. Two solutions, reem barrel, or test different brands of ammo till you find the one which works. BTW, I stopped buying
  10. Look at your hammer hook and sear for possible surface issues. There's a good chance they aren't meeting correctly. You should be able to run with reduced power springs.
  11. Honestly if you haven’t purchased the trigger package yet I would recommend this over the Pyramid. https://johnnyglocks.com/ I think you will be happier with it. Also grip tape helps.
  12. That’s the way to put the fire out. It’s never a bad time to start reloading, just may have to wait for components. While the OP is doing so they can set up the machine have a nice work bench and space ready to go. Then go buy some ammo shoot and save the brass. Go for it! “He who hesitates is lost.”
  13. Reloading is a hobby and for many a passion by itself. Do not start trying to justify it by the old “saving money” argument (except to a significant other who wants to know why you spend so much time in the garage). It’s about experimenting, making the perfect rounds for your gun, discussing for hours the perfect powder, OAL, primers, Bullets and more. Who can complain about buying more tools, making a special place to go and spend hours of time, and finding out how their gun actually works. Just do it. BTW, I load for volume on a 1050 9mm, 40sw, 45 ACP, and
  14. Lot’s of threads on brass, essentially CBC is hardest to load deep, watch out for steel and stepped brass. These days there’s a lot of NATO “crimped” primer pocketed brass, so swaging the pockets or just sorting them out will make seating primers a little easier. If you haven’t read it here yet, learn to “plunk” test you reloads to make sure it will seat and fire in your gun. Bullet profiles matter. Enjoy!
  15. Only three reasons for failure to fire, primer not seated properly, light strike, or a bad primer. Not seated is a reloading issue. Light strikes could be a bad spring, not matched to hardness of primer, or some other mechanical gun issue. Bad primer could be manufacturing defect, contamination or brass issue that distorted the primer somehow. BTW, was your gun fully in battery? Sometimes a high primer will cause the slide not to fully engage in battery. That’s about it, others will probably have some good ideas.
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