HesedTech

And there's my problem

I love it. Far better than the stock Dillon system. I've actually wore a groove in the Dillon actuator pin on the tool head and had to replace it. The smoothness of motion on the Prime Time is fantastic.

I will bet that somehow it, the arm, got bent. The arm and process is pretty simple and yes I've bent the arm in the past. Some how the shuttle got jammed and there's enough leverage in the system where the weaker arm bent. So check to make sure the arm that attaches to the shuttle is straight and not slightly bent backwards. If it is put it in a vise and straighten it. Height is not a big issue as long as the arm doesn't touch the surface of the base or comes out of the shuttle slot as it arcs through its movement. Just make sure the arm surface is parallel with the shuttle and does not bind. Better yet, if you have the $$ get the "Prime Time" from FW Arms. Much better! Let me add a couple of things which might help. 1. Polish the shuttle bottom and top with progressively paper until the surfaces shine. 2. Polish the primer hole with a Dremel felt tip, and compound. 3. Polish the surface on the base where the shuttle slides in. Key word, polish so that the shuttle moves easily and freely. Hope this helps. This is my experience with using 2 1050s, 1 1100 and over 100K of loading.

Yes. If you can tell the difference in USPSA or practical style competition, then you are a really good shooter. Having experimented with this very subject there is a slight difference in accuracy due to volume differences, but not worth one nickel in practical shooting. Sorting tens of thousands of brass is a major pain in the...

RL1100 uses the same toolhead as the 1050 except for the ratchet. As far as tolerances go you must always check them when swapping tool heads. If you are using the same die set up on two different machines things will likely change. The ratchet is not required, but if not automated and is recommended.

Not in pistol rounds. In precision rifle the jump to the lands starts to count for very long shots. With pistol rounds as others have written the OAL may make your ammo feed more reliable. Accuracy is more effected by bullet profile, barrel, barrel fit, bullet diameter, velocity, ammo consistency, properly adjusted sights, and your finger. OAL changes won't be noticed.

That is the fix and if you switch to rune followers there are less issues. The profile of the Grams contributes to the flipping sideways. This has been discussed in several threads. BTW I purchased PD K9 base pads but I prefer the Henning spring loaded stop over the screws to keep them on the mags. Both work fine.

Welcome to the world of reloading to a custom load. For PCC two import things to work on; feed reliability and leading in comp. I recommend to only use 124 RN profile heavy plated with no exposed lead. I like the Everglades 124 V2 heavy plated. Very easy to load and service is fantastic. Round nose for best feeding. Fully plated for leading of comp. You will need to buy or have access to a chronograph to develop loads. All those book numbers from the manufacturer are there to protect them from lawsuits. A PCC does not need as much powder to achieve minor PF velocity because of the barrel length. So start with the lowest numbers and adjust using a chronological as needed to achieve you desired results. I started with Lee presses and while they work they have a lot of challenges. Pay attention to powder drops and primer feeds. BTW, CFE Pistol is a good powder. When you are ready to move up look at a Dillon or Mark 7 press. Enjoy your new found hobby!

While I don't have your particular gun I can assure you some things are common amongst self-feeding guns and mag fit and alignment is one of them. I replaced mag catches, base pad fit, bolt face mods, extractors, smoothed and polished mag wells, and even sold guns that failed to run reliably. We think these are "precision" made little machines, but they really aren't because they would be too expensive for the average person to own. At some point the best thing is to sell the gun and get another one. Something to consider.

The bullet should not point at the bottom edge of the feed ramp. The next round in all my auto feed guns moves a bit forward, just like the one in your pics, when the round above it is fed. The problem is it is too low and something is wrong with your magazine alignment. I looked up the Canik problems and there's plenty. Here's a video of one person's fix, not sure if it matches your issue: And another: It seems to me, as I pointed out, the problem may be magazine fit and alignment.

I don't have a Canik, but had a similar problem with Tanfoglio. After a lot of anguish with changing springs, polishing parts, new followers and more it came down to the magazine catch. The magazine catch was undersized and did not hold the mag all the way to the top of the well. After a quick internet search I noticed the Canik Rival has some seating issues with base pads. Check to see if you have up and down play when the mag is inserted in the well. Or maybe even though it's latching into the gun your mag isn't fully in place. The pics and video look like you ammo is not high enough even though it rest properly against the feed lips of the magazine. Basically when the magazine is fully in place there should be little up or down movement in the well and the bullet tip should point directly at the center of the feed ramp. The next round will move slightly forward, however it too should be pointing at the center of the feed ramp.

Rebarrel in 9mm, Patriot Defense has the barrels. You must swap extractor from 40 to 9mm. Get K9 mags. Yes I had it done by PD, runs fine. That's it. However, the price of barrel and fitting is about half of a new gun. You will have to send entire gun for the fitting to PD.

The die isn't "shaving" the lead. What is happening is your bullets are not going straight (or close to it) into the brass. The Dillon powder funnel isn't the best and that is why Mr. Bullet Feeder, Alpha and the one listed here all have a step to size the brass and hold the bullet in place. There are better seating dies which also hold the bullet in better alignment, Hornady is the lowest price and Redding the highest. The bullet switch shouldn't be much of an issue except for quality control and sizing. See if you new ones are the same diameter as the old ones. .357 is harder to load than .356 or .355. Love the hobby.

Looked at it, but I typically make a large bulk order and take the bulk order discount. Depending on the manufacturer it ranges from 10-15% and with shipping included in the price.

I've loaded thousands of Blues, Summit, Brass Monkey, and other brands. There is only one I won't use, but won't mention the name here. Personal opinion is Brass Monkey has fantastic customer service and I've loaded and shot at least 30K of theirs. Overall the best coated bullet is made by Blues. Very consistent in weight, size and coating (I've shot them in both the smurf and new coating) does not come off. However, for the price and service BM are my goto these days.