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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Just can’t trust internet.

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Calls Shots

Calls Shots (8/11)

  1. Nope didn't miss it, just commenting on how the precision rifle people load with a Dillon progressive press. As far as the RCBS or Hornady measure goes (also the Lee auto pro drum isn't too bad), while a bit more precise than the Dillon they still don't compare to a Chargemaster or similar where powder consistency is required.
  2. You have to be clear, they use a 650 and 550 with the head secured, floating dies and drop the powder with a fancy trickler. They do not do the typical progressive one pass method. The brass is meticulously prepared, its volume measured, the neck sized, bullets seated to ogive not OAL and more. Some of the guys, especially F Class shooters, can hit sub MOA (okay under 2” group) at 1000 yards. The point is the OP is trying to get consistent powder drops from a system which on its best day, with the right powders is adequate for general shooting. If anyone wants to see how a precision rifle shooter loads on a 550, 650, or 750 check out F Class John. https://youtube.com/c/FClassJohn
  3. This is okay for plinking around 100 yards and USPSA (all though my Dillon does drop at an accuracy level of .1 with the powder I use for 9mm) but is no where near accurate enough for precision rifle shooting.
  4. No reason to be confused. I too have loaded 10s of thousands of rounds of ammo and this is what I know. If I want accuracy, as in sub MOA, everything counts. This means using some form of trickle powder measure and not a drop like the Dillon. I personally use a Charge Master. Bullet OAL, brass consistency, neck size, bullet weight and type and more will drop your SDs and increase the accuracy. The truth is there is no way a Dillon powder drop on a progressive press can provide the consistency needed. While some powders drop better than others a trickler style of powder measure is the only way to get what you seek. Yes it’s slow and often tedious, especially when one is used to progressive processes.
  5. Not doing anything wrong, the 550 will occasionally not drop primers into the cup, something to do with distance when it's dropped. There are many 3D printed fixes for this. Here's an example:
  6. "It feels (or doesn't feel) natural to me." I thought the same thing until it was pointed out there's something called "practice" to work out these "unnatural" items and make them "natural." Todd Jarret showed me how I was gripping wrong and after a lot of practice its (Todd's method) the way I automatically grip the gun. Far more control than my original "natural" grip. I'm also amazed how often "grip" is discussed, and shown in Youtube videos. The end result should be gun control and ability to make rapid accurate follow up shots. I also have to write this, if CHA-LEE, Todd Jarret, Ben Stoeger or other top GMs say something works it's probably worth listening to.
  7. There are a huge amount of product available for Dillon presses. Check out EBay and you didn’t write which press.
  8. I wet tumble without pins because sorting the pins out, even with a magnet, is a major pain in the rear. I wet tumble my brass because I can do large numbers at once and the brass is far cleaner, in and out, than media. When I am only doing a small amount of brass I will use my Frankford vibrating tumbler with crushed shells and some polish.
  9. Yep! For the OP, the EGW hammer and sear sold by Henning, I have the combo, is not a drop-in install. The hammer must be fit to the gun by possibly removing a bit here: Read this link: I had the same problem mentioned in this link. After fitting it the combo with the flat trigger is wonderful!
  10. When I clean or change calibers I always put a very thin, and I mean very thin film of grease on the bottom. No matter what the plates are coated with metal on metal does wear. But the problem is any amount of lubricant will attract dust and debris, so it’s a trade off and decision you have to make. Lube for wear and smoother running, but maybe clean more often or no lube with a bit more wear. I also lube the hold down ring wear it contacts the shell plate and the inner plate edge which rotates on center post. To sum it up any part which rubs against another needs a bit of lube. However, parts like the powder funnel, expansion plug and swage rod should never be lubed where they contact the brass. Doing so will contaminate the powder and or primer. Polish these items with dremel or very fine wet and dry (1200 grit). hope that helps.
  11. I run Ammobot 1050 with TNT plates for 9mm and 223. Why? 1. Less wobble of cases as they rotate through stations. 2. Less flex should mean more precision of seating. 3. Less flex at swage 4. The cool factor of an upgrade. I do believe the Dillon plates are designed to allow for a bit less precision when the cases are pushed into them with the feeder. Helps if one is not aligned well.
  12. To lighten trigger you need: 1. Internal parts polish job. 2. Lighter hammer spring. For shorter reset it all depends on if after market disconnector will fit. Call or email Patriot Defense or J and L Gun Smith https://patriotdefense.com https://www.jandlgunsmithing.com If you plan on shooting competition the best advice is learn the game with this gun and or upgrade to a version with parts and smithing availability. Lots of great out of the box competition level guns.
  13. As usual the best place to start here on the forum is to do a search before asking the question. Here’s what I found in seconds: Enjoy.
  14. This may fit: https://patriotdefense.com/xtreme-tanfoglio-double-action-trigger/ I have these installed on my TFs. Much better than the more curved version.
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