HesedTech

Yes. There are GSs who will weld the slide holes up and re-machine the mount. Check with CGW or Patriot Defense.

Pull and clean your extractor. That is unless you actually have the spent round extracted and now two rounds are feeding up? Often a "double feed" is a failure to extract spent brass properly. Or a round nose dived/stove piped. A picture from you would help. PF shouldn't cause a "double feed," but a change in OAL, bullet profile... could change the way it's feeding. Are your mags clean, do you clean them after dumping them into the dirt, or how about the mag springs and followers? Since Glock mags are basically plastic there's no feed lip adjustment.

The problem is how to make a 140mm length which will be strong enough to hold 25 rounds under the pressure of the spring. There is only so much space to cram 20 rounds on top of a follower and spring. I've gotten 24 + 1 crammed in with thin followers, but it doesn't always feed the first round because of the tension. 23+1 works fine, so plan your stage accordingly. One extra won't win the stage for you.

The closed base helps to prevent leading of comp is main reason. The second is consistency of bullet and longer bearing surfaces makes for better accuracy.

Longevity - coated bullets should have far less wear on the barrel than FMJ. However, poorly coated bullets can lead barrel sooner. Accuracy - for action pistol not an issue at all. Because a FMJ bullet can be more precisely made they can be slightly more accurate. If volume is your need, and you don’t have a comp, coated is the way to go. If you are concerned about the quality of the coating do the hammer smash test. If the coating stays on you’re good to go.

The only issues I've had are in the base pads. Henning extended base pads do not have as much angle in them where they meet with the mag well, and may not allow full insertion of the mag into the well. Taran Tac work fine in both. Because the grip angle is slightly different the mag angle will also be different. What this means is the bullet lines up slightly different with the feed ramp. Because of this a bullet profile that works well in the CZ may not feed as well in the TF. Some tuning maybe required. It will depend on the quality of the machining of the TF. CZs tend to have better quality control.

Okay here are the differences (SF TF - CZ S2) 1. Mags the same, no problems. 2. Mag pouches same. 3. Holster different. Depending on which is your primary gun the holster will either be tight or loose. 4. Make sure ammo chronos within PF. 5. Grip and sight angles slightly different. 6. TF Parts easy to get in the USA through Patriot Defense. 7. CZ Shadow 2 has a far better DA draw than TF. 8. Trigger angles similar if you get the CGW RDR kit trigger and the TF Extreme DA/SA trigger. 9. Draw is similar. Remember this is a hobby and if you want these guns get them and enjoy. It's also a great excuse to buy new gear!

I've set up a few Shadow 2s with this kit and swear by it. The first thing to know is the foot on the bottom of the disco is supposed to ride on the frame, it's part of the DA process. This is why I personally polish the bottom of the foot on the disco and make sure the frame is smooth. CZC actually makes the contact point/foot on the Disco where it touches the frame a bit small to reduce drag. The top of the disco can rub the sear cage. Again I polish the sear cage where it can makes contact with the disco. Additionally, that is also the location where dirt and grit can rub between the sear cage, disco, and trigger bar. If you didn't polish these surfaces first you will see where they contact after a few hundred rounds. Polish the rub areas to make a butter smooth contact. So far the only filing/Dremel work I've ever done on the CGW disco is making sure the SA will reset and have the amount of take up I like. I do polish the foot and the rear face after adjusting/fitting for the SA. Hand fitting is part of the joy of perfecting your gun. If you are not sure about doing the work and not willing to buy replacement parts for any accidental extra removal of material, find a local GS or send it to CGW or CZC.

Occasionally measure crimp, but only to see how my plunk test and crimp dent worked out. Typically it ends up less than .380 after finding what works. I set bell visually not by measurement. The crimp is always to remove bell and then plunk test when setting up a load. Did you plunk test the ammo in your 92? If so, did you first try to increase crimp or decrease OAL before posting this? I'm sure you know each gun has slightly different chambers. Personally I load for my most restrictive and then the ammo runs on all my guns. This isn't PRS or F1 shooting, so accuracy is relative to hitting a 6" target every shot at 25 yards.

I have both. A TF is NOT a backup gun for a competitor shooting a Shadow 2. The grip angle and height of dot is enough different to slow you down. Plus holster is different. If you want a backup, buy the identical gun and setup.

I have a small mill and drill press, so yes I could do it. However, I imagine the OP does not have access to such tools.

Ammo or Class $? The answer is both. Dry Fire will improve gun handling skills, but if you throw Ms and Ds all the time it won't make you an M. Every M/GM I know sent a lot of stuff down range. What classes will do is answer the questions about how to practice for matches. Each instructor has their own strengths, but unless one actually practices what they are taught with live and dry fire, it will only marginally improve your match day. I've asked multiple National and world level GMs and they all said the same thing about ammo, you have to practice the skills with live fire, confirming what was practiced in dry. I would guess on average they went through at least 50K rounds a year, mostly in practice. The question really is how big a budget of practice time are shooters willing to commit to improvement? I took Steve Anderson's Mental Management class (it was worth the money) and he starts with the idea, "what's the payoff for doing this?"

Yep. But small mm bits normally have to be ordered. A proper drill press and vise is needed to make nice holes.

We found some ejectors need to be kept clean and even rounded /polished a bit at the hook or not all rims will slide up under them properly as they feed in. I’ve sen it happen on Tanfos (one of mine) and 3 CZ Shadow 2s owned by others I shoot with. Sometimes polishing, or at least cleaning the bolt face helps with feeding.

There's the key. Hardened metal requires more than high speed steel bits to cut properly. It may be easier to get the bits than TF parts.