Manual Rollsizer Mod

[NWBullitt]

I decided to add a variable speed motor to my Manual Mini Rollsizer from scrap aluminum I had laying around. Much better than the manual crank. Total cost of the mod around 80.00

Edited March 20, 2021 by NWBullitt

[jubi351]

Awesome job. Where did you get the coupler(part#)?

[18111811]

thats amazing!  can you post the specs on the motor and coupler?  

[NWBullitt]

7 hours ago, 18111811 said:

thats amazing!  can you post the specs on the motor and coupler?  

Motor:

Ebay item:  274672064928 (there are several sellers so shop around who has the best price & feedback and also ships from the US)

 

Coupler: 8mm to 8mm Ebay item: 152161784190...(again, shop around, the prices vary on these. I only paid a few bucks for mine)

 

FYI....The newer model Rollsizers now rotate counter clockwise. The speed control that comes with the motor can be wired to accomodate this. Clockwise or counter clockwise. According to Kevin from Rollsizer.com, the reason they did this, is because folks that have the earlier versions that rotate clockwise, were using too powerful of a motor or drill and breaking the bolt that turns the shaft. With the shaft on the newer models that now turn counter clockwise, if there is a jam, the bolt will break loose the loctite and loosen rather than actually shearing off the bolt. 

 You'll want to get the type of coupler that "flexes" in case there is any slight misalignment between shafts.

 

Disclaimer: Any of the above mods are "at your own risk". 

Edited March 21, 2021 by NWBullitt

[NWBullitt]

Update: Another member informed me that the motor I listed didn't have enough torque to operate his Rollsizer. It is not known at this time what the specifics were such as caliber etc, so I would suggest not attempting the mod until It is determined what the exact cause is that the other member experienced. 

   I have yet to experience the same problem, and I am unable to edit the list as posted so I am posting this update.

[fbzero]

On 4/13/2021 at 5:00 PM, NWBullitt said:

Update: Another member informed me that the motor I listed didn't have enough torque to operate his Rollsizer. It is not known at this time what the specifics were such as caliber etc, so I would suggest not attempting the mod until It is determined what the exact cause is that the other member experienced. 

   I have yet to experience the same problem, and I am unable to edit the list as posted so I am posting this update.

Any update?  Driving mine with a drill right now, but would like to do something like this.

[MC_DO]

I would love to hear any update for this mod as well.

[DLyell]

I tried the same motor and it doesn't have enough torque to Rollsizer 9mm. Need more power.

[michael b.]

I made something similar, but I used a 110v 120w motor with 1:10 gear reducer.  Works like a charm.  I can roll a couple thousand .40 cases an hour.

 

Why?  Cause it was fun to build and figure out.  I saved a few bucks in the end, but I was more motivated by seeing if I could make it.

 

Sorry for the poor pic quality, but see attached.

 

 

[ddc]

3 hours ago, michael b. said:

I made something similar, but I used a 110v 120w motor with 1:10 gear reducer.  Works like a charm.  I can roll a couple thousand .40 cases an hour.

 

Why?  Cause it was fun to build and figure out.  I saved a few bucks in the end, but I was more motivated by seeing if I could make it.

 

Sorry for the poor pic quality, but see attached.

 

 

 

120w ?

 

One hundred and twenty watts? 

 

There seems to be a lot of variability in the wattage ratings for those motors. Starting around 8.

 

Interesting.

 

 

Edited February 24, 2022 by ddc

[michael b.]

20 hours ago, ddc said:

 

120w ?

 

One hundred and twenty watts? 

 

There seems to be a lot of variability in the wattage ratings for those motors. Starting around 8.

 

Interesting.

 

 

Here's a link to the type of motor I got.  Prices can vary widely.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/402639147974?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=b4c3c3fb3ee14bfaa61115ff28a21fcd&bu=45176703970&osub=-1~1&crd=20220224061346&segname=11050&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

 

[Tom S.]

On 2/22/2022 at 6:12 AM, DLyell said:

I tried the same motor and it doesn't have enough torque to Rollsizer 9mm. Need more power.

I'm curious. Do you use any lube to rollsize? If not, that may reduce friction enough for the motor to do it's job.

[ltdmstr]

21 hours ago, Tom S. said:

I'm curious. Do you use any lube to rollsize? If not, that may reduce friction enough for the motor to do it's job.

 

Why would you use lube to rollsize?  You want the cases to rotate as they roll between the die(s), not slide through them.

Edited February 28, 2022 by ltdmstr

[Tom S.]

Any time you work metal lube is advantageous. I'm not talking about flooding the rollers, just a light lube such as One Shot. Have you tried it to see what happens?

[ltdmstr]

4 hours ago, Tom S. said:

Any time you work metal lube is advantageous. I'm not talking about flooding the rollers, just a light lube such as One Shot. Have you tried it to see what happens?

 

The entire point of this process is to have the dies grab the cases by friction and then to use that friction as a means to rotate the cases between the dies as they turn.  Adding lube does not assist in any way.  And it certainly doesn't reduce the amount of torque required to run the machine.  That's directly related to how tight the cases are being squeezed as they roll through the dies, how many pieces of brass are being rolled through the dies at any given time, etc.  Lubing any contact parts on the machine might help decrease the resistance and reduce the torque needed to run it, but lubing the cases is not going to make a difference. 

[WaltK]

4 hours ago, Tom S. said:

Any time you work metal lube is advantageous. I'm not talking about flooding the rollers, just a light lube such as One Shot. Have you tried it to see what happens?

If I remember correctly the instruction manual states specifically not to use any lube. 

[Tom S.]

My only experience was working in roll forming at GM.  I'll make sure to tell them they don't know what they are doing.

 

Carry on.

[WaltK]

34 minutes ago, Tom S. said:

My only experience was working in roll forming at GM.  I'll make sure to tell them they don't know what they are doing.

 

Carry on.

I retrieved my instruction manual for the Rollsizer.  On page 3 it states:  " Only, clean, dry, fired (or deprimed) cases should be used in the rollsizer". 

The next sentence down it states: " No case lubrication is required. Case lubrication will compromise the operation of the rollsizer and allow dirt to stick to the rolling surfaces. This is the main reason for premature wear."

Make sure to tell them this too.

Edited March 1, 2022 by WaltK
grammar

[Boomstick303]

39 minutes ago, Tom S. said:

My only experience was working in roll forming at GM.  I'll make sure to tell them they don't know what they are doing.

 

And this some how makes you an expert on another companies product and its designed use how???

 

The rolls sizer counts on using friction of the brass against the roller to ensure the case rolls and obtain the proper case dimension.   Hence the name Roll sizer.  Believe it or not build up of lube in the roll sizer could create a ton of issues.  One of them being sizing issues.  There is a reason you wipe lube off before you case check prepped brass.  

[WaltK]

1 hour ago, Tom S. said:

My only experience was working in roll forming at GM.  I'll make sure to tell them they don't know what they are doing.

 

Carry on.

Perhaps roll FORMING and roll SIZING are two different animals.

[BPSReloading]

I used the 250 watt motor and gearbox from Amazon, shaft coupling came from there too. Gearbox output shaft is 135 rpm at full speed, which works perfectly. Coupling is set to slip if roll sizer jams. I have processed 8500 9mm this far, zero problems from motor or roll sizer.

[Farmer]

Nice setup, like that you used strong bracket and a self aligning coupler. Removes a lot of stress on the bearings. 

[67isb]

5 hours ago, BPSReloading said:

I used the 250 watt motor and gearbox from Amazon, shaft coupling came from there too. Gearbox output shaft is 135 rpm at full speed, which works perfectly. Coupling is set to slip if roll sizer jams. I have processed 8500 9mm this far, zero problems from motor or roll sizer.

 

 

That looks like a nice setup.  I wonder how much money  you really save when you add the cost of the motor, bolts, paint, and time spent making it.

Don't know about you, but I'm guessing making something like above is a 8-12 hours of work by the time you cut, weld, drill, paint, mount it.

Might be a good option for some, but I don't see how potentially saving $200 to $300 dollars max for 8 -12 hours of work would be worth it to some people when you consider the end product may not be as durable and takes up more footprint than what is offered by Rollsizer.   I'd rather spend my free time doing something else.

[markimm]

So, little bit of knowledge here. The gear box in the manual is NOT the same as the gearbox in the DC version.  The premature wear on the gearing caused by this is going to be an expensive lesson.  

 

[BPSReloading]

Hand cranking the manual unit results in approximately 90-100 rpm... the motor and gearbox duplicates this... and to some degree, it’s actually a little slower than hand cranking. The coupling will slip long before any gearbox damage can occur.... So, no... this will not “shorten” the life of the manual gearbox. I simply automated a person manually cranking it, and added a mechanical fuse. I did not speed things up, nor increase the input torque.