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Manual Rollsizer Mod


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@Farmerthanks... the angle brackets are off the shelf shelve brackets from Home Depot, and are already painted gloss black. They cost $2 each, and the coupling does NOT have any keys installed... it will slip with the lightest of blockages, even less than the hand crank. Anyone with experience cranking these manually can attest to crushing a case before you have a chance to catch yourself and reverse the handle. Not so with the slipper coupling... 8500 pieces processed and a couple of slips due to what I can only say is Glock +P self defense loads that generate a very pronounced bulge.

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4 hours ago, BPSReloading said:

Hand cranking the manual unit results in approximately 90-100 rpm... the motor and gearbox duplicates this... and to some degree, it’s actually a little slower than hand cranking. The coupling will slip long before any gearbox damage can occur.... So, no... this will not “shorten” the life of the manual gearbox. I simply automated a person manually cranking it, and added a mechanical fuse. I did not speed things up, nor increase the input torque.

👍

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Been running my modded manual rollsizer all day. I bought the 120 watt unit with a 1/10 reducer on it. The motor states that it will run at 135 rpm reduced but I the best I could get is 27 cases per minute. The manual sets that if the feeding tube runs out that cases might go in at odd angles but I haven’t seen this happen in my test. The motor doesn’t sound different when the case first goes through the rollsizer. Here is my setup:

 

9D823AE6-FBE6-4513-8D1F-BDA2F41E7BB7.jpeg

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8 hours ago, N7VY said:

Been running my modded manual rollsizer all day. I bought the 120 watt unit with a 1/10 reducer on it. The motor states that it will run at 135 rpm reduced but I the best I could get is 27 cases per minute. The manual sets that if the feeding tube runs out that cases might go in at odd angles but I haven’t seen this happen in my test. The motor doesn’t sound different when the case first goes through the rollsizer. Here is my setup:

 

9D823AE6-FBE6-4513-8D1F-BDA2F41E7BB7.jpeg

Very nice! I’m going to wire a push button momentary switch for the motor rotation jumper, much like the Mark 7 case feeder has.

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  • Rated Voltage: 13.5 VDC
  • Rated Speed: 100 RPM
  • Rated Load: 60 Watts
  • Rated Torque: 3 N-m (2.2 ft-lb)
  • Shaft: 3/8" shaft with 1 flat ("D" shaft) where flat to OD is 0.322" and the length of the shaft is 0.886" long

It works well, but is a little slow. The case feeder only runs at about 1/3 speed. Waiting on a 285rpm motor to be delivered to see if I can speed the process up.

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I’ve been thinking of changing my motor out to a 250watt with a 1:3 or 1:5 reducer, so I can have a bit more speed in the output. My understanding is that the torque needs to be closer to 7nm.

Edited by N7VY
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The motor/gearbox I have now runs great now and doesn't have problems with 9 and 40 cases. Sometimes a 40 case will slip thru and jam the 9mm rollsizer. The drive stops and I reverse the rotation to get the 40 case out. It is made by makermotor. I just want to try to go a little faster,,,

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On 2/28/2022 at 7:59 PM, Tom S. said:

Any time you work metal lube is advantageous. I'm not talking about flooding the rollers, just a light lube such as One Shot. Have you tried it to see what happens?

No, The rollsizer requires friction, kube wiull not improve the rolling but it will allow the metal to scour / wear. The manuals are very clear on this. Do not lubricate your cases.

Rollsizer.com 

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  • 4 months later...

Sorry to try to revive a old thread but I have been considering buying a roll sizer and wondering if this is the way to go or just pony up for the commercial grade. (I do hope for this thing to run upwards of 500k rounds in its life time). I'm fairly mechanically inclined so naturally I gravitate to getting a small manual and using a motor. But honestly wondering what type of speeds you guys are getting with these setups. Is it reasonable to achieve 2k+ an hour? I have a mark 7 case feeder that should be able to keep up pretty well. Also wondering if a corded drill with the coupler and proper bracket is just more cost effective and potentially significantly faster. Could probably buy 5-6 cheap corded drills for the price of a decent speed motor and the time to fab/weld the mount for a more involved motor. Any feedback from guys who have built one of these would be appreciated.

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Travis7...

 

I have the manual combined with an inexpensive drill.

 

I'm beyond the 100,000 point. No problems so far.

 

The drill is working fine. I use the lowest torque setting that works to protect the roll sizer. 9mm with my drill works at the number 4 setting.

 

I haven't timed how many cases in an hour. 2,000 an hour might be possible. If you can set/adjust the speed you will see the highest rate.

 

If you try to roll too fast the case will fly out of the machine.

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Travis7,

you would probably better off buying the DC unit or the commercial unit. It looks like you want to process more than personal amount of brass. I’m running a 120 watt 1:10 reducer motor off of *bay. I get 27 pieces per minute. I’ve thought about getting the 250 watt 1:3 reducer unit to get about 90 per minute or 5400 per hour. Of course with the unit I have I can vari the rpm.

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  • 9 months later...
On 7/29/2022 at 11:54 PM, cool said:
5000 per hour 9 mm with the commercial Rollsizer in 220 v 
 

 

Wonder if that's a 50Hz thing cause I get over 6K/hr.
I did have to use a DAA shell plate on a Dillon variable speed though, I'd have to run the case feed faster with the Dillon plate and it would jamb all the time.
Edited by sharko
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