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fbzero

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Everything posted by fbzero

  1. Had the 13lb CGW spring in, but it did have a considerable effect on the DA pull. Got my hands on a 12lb Eric Grauffel spring from BSPS and it felt considerably nicer than the 13lb, so I rolled the dice and took it out to a match this weekend with more of the SA primed ammo. No more light strikes so far, so hoping that extra little bit is all I needed for reliability.
  2. Just wanted to follow up on this after getting more rounds loaded with these primers down range. -My first range trip to chrono/test was 50 rounds, no issues. -After this, I brought 200 to a local USPSA match and ended up having a single light strike, which went off on the second strike. Didn't read too much into it at that time. -Took another 200 out for testing purposes yesterday and had two more light strikes that both went off on second strike. Firearm is a S2 w/ CGW pro kit installed, 11.5lb hammer spring, extended firing pin, etc. Never had any light strikes with Fiocchi or WSP, so assuming the issue is that the primers are indeed harder at this point. Have installed the 13lb hammer spring for now to see if the issue goes away, and if it does, will keep it in until I shoot through the SA primers. Not knocking the primers at all, some are harder than others and we can make our firearms less reliable when we change internals. Just the nature of the beast.
  3. Aluminum, didn't even know steel was an option.
  4. I can't speak to the AC, but I run the Eemann Ultimate in my CZ's, which I have installed with the CGW Pro Kit. I do prefer it to the more curved options. My index finger pad naturally goes to where it should be with the flat triggers and they feel like they break closer to 90 degrees in SA mode.
  5. While I have no doubt that uniform cases would improve accuracy from a technical standpoint, it is 100% possible to create loads that make fuzzy holes at 15-20y with mixed brass. The mixed brass certainly isn't the problem here, but likely the 111 PF. I'd guess that your velocity isn't high enough to stabilize the projectile. You might as well be throwing those 147's; You're only at about 750 FPS. In my experience, 147's seem to tighten up once I pass 900 FPS.
  6. Dillon seems to be the brand to choose for support and longevity. A 750 would absolutely work, but I have a different take having started on a 650(same as 750, different priming system) before going to a 1050. I still have my 650, but use it for things like .40 S&W, or loading already processed .223. It's an excellent press, just has it's limitations. You are looking to load 9mm and possibly .223 later, both rounds that you're going to come across crimped brass with. With no way to deal with that on the 750, you're more likely to get the occasional high/hard to seat primer. Additionally, the extra stations come in pretty handy to take care of extra tasks.
  7. I'm using a 1050, so my brass is getting swaged making it pretty easy to seat primers. Sometimes foreign primers can be just a bit larger in diameter making them harder to seat than our domestic ones, which has bit me with Ginex primers on a 650 before. Sometimes they'd look fully seated, but it would take two strikes to set them off still. That stopped as soon as I started loading 9mm on the 1050 though.
  8. Out of curiosity, are you using the stock firing pin or an extended one? In addition to the 11.5lb, I have the extended firing pin, so perhaps that is what's making the difference...
  9. After not having much luck with the 69gr and 8208 XBR, the "accuracy load" of 25.3gr of Varget at the bottom of this page worked great for me in multiple rifles. Not sure what primer they used, but I used Remington 7.5's. Never bothered to look for anything else to do with my 69gr SMK's after testing it. Fortunately, the 8208 XBR I have has done better under 77's.
  10. I can only say what I've seen, but if there is any parallel to rifle loading, I agree on the full ignition theory. Often if I am getting bad ES/SD's with WSR's, switching to either CCI 41's or Rem 7.5's will improve those numbers considerably. In those cases, I'm basically going from a standard primer to a magnum primer, so better/more consistent ignition has always been my running theory. I haven't really observed it in pistols so much, and have just assumed that such an effect would be far less pronounced with such small charges. On the other hand, it does seem like some powders benefit while others don't really benefit much on the rifle side of things, so another possibility is that the pistol powders I've typically used just don't need that extra "oomph" for consistent ignition. My current charge for USPSA loads is 3.3gr of Prima SV under a 135gr RMR MW, so maybe I'd see this effect if I was using one of the slower ones people use where they are dropping 5.5-6.5gr...
  11. With the Fiocchi's, ES was 23.7 and SD was 8.2 on my last 10 rounds over the chrono. Having problems finding the data on the previous 10 rounds I did in a different range session, but the data was almost the same. With the SA primers, ES was 42.2 and SD was 11.6(ES 31.3, SD 8.9 with the one outlier removed). In my pistol reloading experience, primers don't usually make much of a difference for ES and SD. I verify over the chrono to be safe, but the reality is that between Winchesters, Remingtons, S&B's, Ginex, Fiocchi's, and now these SA's, I've just never seen enough of a difference to matter for pistol applications. With rifle loads it can be another story. To me, it seems like the best way to improve ES/SD with pistol is to load on the higher end of the load data for your powder and(if possible) make your OAL to where the projectile is very close to the powder fill line or even slightly compressed. Just keep in mind that the main function of OAL is to feed reliably, so you might not have much choice there. Other than reduced perceived recoil of a faster powder, that is the other advantage of powders like N320, Sport Pistol, etc. The higher end of the load data for those is basically minor PF + a cushion so you aren't riding the line. When I first got the Ginex, I had a 650, so my 9mm brass was not getting swaged. They were difficult to seat, and I'd get bit by the occasional high primer at a match if I didn't case gauge to weed them out. Before I ran out of them, I picked up a 1050 from a guy that was getting out of pistol reloading and never had another problem once my brass was getting swaged during the loading process. If your brass is being swaged, the choice between those probably doesn't matter. I believe the Ginex's are heavy metal free though, so if that is worth ~25% extra cost to you in the current market, they may be worth it. Got the SA's for 5.2c/primer delivered, while ordering Ginex would be closer to 6.5c/primer right now.
  12. I grabbed some and would do it again based on my first trip with them. Only loaded up a small batch to start with to check things on the chrono with my current load and make sure they go bang, etc. Initial thoughts are below. -They seat easy enough, not super tight like the Ginex I used during the Obama shortages. -Some people have reported that they are "hard", but my S2 with an 11.5lb mainspring/extended CGW firing pin set them off without issues. May or may not be harder than some others, but that's a pretty light mainspring, so I'm thinking people must be taking things to extremes with their trigger work or weren't getting them fully seated. -Compared to the Fiocchi's I have been using, the ES and SD were a bit higher, but still pretty good. If you're one of those people loading to 127PF, throw 10-20 rounds over the chrono and make sure you aren't going to get bit. If I throw out the one round that was the biggest outlier, the ES/SD are almost identical, so maybe just something related to the mixed range brass I use or a light powder drop, etc.
  13. I've been using thick ones on my S2's and thin ones on my S1. I initially used them because they came installed, but did eventually try without them and thought it had a negative effect on the felt recoil *for me*. I understand that this short strokes the slide action and some people claim this will induce malfunctions, but have not had any issues.
  14. I use flat safeties on the Shadows too. Would probably use the wide ones if the placement was closer to a 2011, but as it is, they slightly interfere with my support hand on the CZ's.
  15. Most of the reloading machines themselves have some standard variation, say 0.006. Then throw mixed range brass with it's own variations on top of that, and I'd say this is pretty normal.
  16. No joke, they really missed the mark on the 507 comp reticles. Should have done like a 2 MOA, 6 MOA, 8 MOA, then maybe something with a ring suited to shotgun...
  17. I've seen them in stock since then, so you're missing them. In my experience, the notifications basically don't work at all. I stopped bothering and just check manually every now and then. If you see what you want, don't wait, just order. They last about 1-2 days max.
  18. I don't seem to get the notifications when I sign up for them the vast majority of the time, so I don't like to rely on that. They seem to restock but sell out frequently, so just check every now and then and don't wait to order if you see what you want in stock.
  19. This is why I moved away from them. I do know people who get decent results, but I always had better accuracy with coated, which are also cheaper than plated. Seems nowadays that if you are going to pay for plated, you might as well get a high quality FMJ from someone like Precision Delta or Rocky Mountain Reloading.
  20. fbzero

    Shadow 2 trigger

    A stock S1/S2 can be improved with some lighter springs and/or polishing. You'll still be left with a pretty long DA pull, longer reset, and SA that is "good" but has some creep. Will these things make a huge difference on the timer? Probably not. Are they noticeable during testing and slow fire? Absolutely. On the timer, the biggest difference is probably the shorter DA pull, particularly if you need to engage a long target or small popper on the draw. As mentioned above, if you really want that nicer trigger, the CGW Pro Kit is the way to go. Lighter trigger pull, cleaner break without the creep, shorter reset, shorter DA pull and has been 100% reliable in multiple pistols for me with the 11.5lb hammer spring. Personally, I wouldn't bother just doing the hammer without the rest of the parts though. Without the matching upgraded seer, I just don't see it doing much.
  21. At pistol differences, it doesn't matter much. Wouldn't even enter my thought process unless I was a bullseye shooter. For practical shooting, the only thing I'd suggest is to calculate your power factor with the lowest weight bullet you find and don't try to ride the minimum PF line so you don't run into any problems with illegal reloads in any sport.
  22. Same crimp I use for coated or FMJ works fine for plated, generally measures around 0.3785 on my calipers, though there is some small variation due to mixed brass. Overcrimping can cause problems, especially with coated and plated. Pull a bullet after loading it and make sure that there is just an ever-so-slight indention where the crimp was. If it's breaking through coating/plating or deforming the bullet, you should back it out more.
  23. What would be nice is an EPS plate with built in irons, haven't seen that yet though
  24. fbzero

    Cz spo1 shadow

    Have both, and they both have good qualities. The S1 is a bit less nose heavy and a bit lighter, which can be a pro or a con depending on your preferences. Trigger identical. Even though not windage adjustable, the elevation adjustable rear on S2 is nice to fine tune stuff to your ammo. S2 frame is wider(may be good or bad depending on hand size) and has knurling on the front and rear of grip. I think the S1 slide shape is preferable for easier racking(but lets be honest, this isn't a strong point of the CZ75 design period...). Probably the biggest difference for me is the shape on the bottom of the trigger guard. The flat bottom on the S2 feels a lot better on my support hand than the curve of the S1. Most of the differences are pretty minor, but primarily because of the curved trigger guard on S1, I'd personally lean towards a S2.
  25. The longer extruded powders can create a bridge in the powder funnel, very frustrating when it happens. The ones with shorter sticks like 8208 XBR don't seem to do it in my experience, but still don't seem to meter well out of my Dillon powder drops. Currently experimenting with a Hornady Auto Drum and seeing promising results. Have heard it works very good in the past, but as cheap as it seems to be built, took a while to warm up to the idea of giving it a go...
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