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I concur, around 3.5gr with a 135gr. Usually somewhere between 4 and 4.2 for the 125gr.

I also ordered a MA die set and was thoroughly disappointed with the sizing die, though I liked the mandrel, seating, and crimp dies. As mentioned, the sizing die was scratching brass pretty bad, which I corrected with steps mentioned above. Awesome, now I was in business - right up until I realized that there are about 2-3 headstamps in my mixed brass that don't have enough neck tension after being sized. I can press the bullet into the case with just finger tension. So, needless to say, I just went back to the Dillon sizing die that has worked great for me in the past. At this point, I say just embrace the wasp waist...

No lies detected. PD's biggest downfall for me is that they are much harder to catch in stock than RMR's offerings. To make matters worse, their in stock notification system doesn't seem to work the majority of the time. The double-edged blade of being a popular option I guess...

100% a good idea to have multiple sources of the materials you need. As I said, both companies are great, but if open pistols are why you are going with the Nuke, then the PD JHPv1 and JHPv2 offer the base with no lead exposed at a cheaper price(about 1.5c cheaper per round based on buying 1 case/3K). The Nuke, while excellent, is really geared more towards self-defense and you are paying extra for that functionality in a context that doesn't really require it. The Nuke is great for what it is though, and also a great option for someone that wants to stockpile a single projectile for multiple functions. On an other note, 99% sure USPS has lost my most recent shipment of 135gr RMR MatchWinners =/

They are good to go. I use both RMR's and PD's and consider both to be top notch. Edge to PD for anything with a comp since they have no exposed lead on the base. Edge to RMR for having weights that I prefer, like 135gr. RMR also has frequent sales, 2nds, etc. Both are great companies, so just decide what your needs are and go with the one that best meets them.

I measure because if I'm setting up new dies or a press, I am able to duplicate my previous results. For the bell, I'm just trying to open up the mouth as little as possible to not damage the projectile when seating. I usually see 0.382-0.383 recommended for this and I usually end up in the 0.381-0.382 range. Depending on the diameter of your coated bullets, you might end up with slightly more. For the crimp, all we're really trying to do is remove the bell - not hold the bullet in place as you seem indicate in your comments regarding setback. Preventing setback is a function of neck tension, and if it is proper, you shouldn't be getting any setback even before you crimp. Anywhere from 0.376-0.379 is the general range(recommend the higher end of that range for coated projectiles) here and we all find out what works best for us. I like the majority of mine to end up at 0.378-0.3785.

I agree 100%, with two caveats. First, at the matches I was attending at the time, there wasn't that much paper past 30y or so once the state shut down the 200y bay. Even with the 14.5", I was confident in doubles on 95% or more of the targets. Second, my 18" isn't of similar front end weight. Not saying that the difference would be massive, but my money is that there would be a slight edge to the rifle that offered more mobility at that particular match. Ultimately though, I probably just wanted an excuse to build another rifle more than anything...

Wasn't for PCSL, but at a time when most of our local 3gun never went over 200y and was mostly fast bay style stuff, I built a rifle with a 14.5" Faxon barrel that comes with a pinned brake in the gunner profile, adjustable gas block and 1oz buffer kit from Taccom. Super light build that was perfect for matches like that. I'd say it isn't limited to 200y, but if I were really stretching it, I'd still prefer my Stretch 16" or 18" Criterion build. It's the one I always grab for close stuff though. Maybe a tad more recoil, but I'm certain the transitions are faster and probably more than make up for it.

This would be my guess as well. When adjusting your overtravel screw, you need to be able to rock the hammer back and forth with the trigger pulled back completely and ensure that there is absolutely no engagement between the hammer hook and sear.

Red Hill and Weber Tactical are good options. Ultimately, the GX is nicer, but not reasonable unless/until lead times improve. The RH or WT are still very good and definitely won't hold you back and you can add a lever yourself as mentioned above, which I have done.

So far since putting in the 12lb mainspring, I've done two matches and a practice session without any more light strike issues with the SA primers. It's close enough to the 11.5lb spring on the trigger pull that I'll probably just leave it that way even after running out of the SA primers. Hopefully that will help some of the other S2 shooters using them.

Had the 13lb CGW spring in, but it did have a considerable effect on the DA pull. Got my hands on a 12lb Eric Grauffel spring from BSPS and it felt considerably nicer than the 13lb, so I rolled the dice and took it out to a match this weekend with more of the SA primed ammo. No more light strikes so far, so hoping that extra little bit is all I needed for reliability.

Just wanted to follow up on this after getting more rounds loaded with these primers down range. -My first range trip to chrono/test was 50 rounds, no issues. -After this, I brought 200 to a local USPSA match and ended up having a single light strike, which went off on the second strike. Didn't read too much into it at that time. -Took another 200 out for testing purposes yesterday and had two more light strikes that both went off on second strike. Firearm is a S2 w/ CGW pro kit installed, 11.5lb hammer spring, extended firing pin, etc. Never had any light strikes with Fiocchi or WSP, so assuming the issue is that the primers are indeed harder at this point. Have installed the 13lb hammer spring for now to see if the issue goes away, and if it does, will keep it in until I shoot through the SA primers. Not knocking the primers at all, some are harder than others and we can make our firearms less reliable when we change internals. Just the nature of the beast.

Aluminum, didn't even know steel was an option.

I can't speak to the AC, but I run the Eemann Ultimate in my CZ's, which I have installed with the CGW Pro Kit. I do prefer it to the more curved options. My index finger pad naturally goes to where it should be with the flat triggers and they feel like they break closer to 90 degrees in SA mode.