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About fbzero

  • Birthday 06/03/1985

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    St. Louis, MO
  • Interests
    USPSA, 3gun, Camping, Canoeing
  • Real Name
    Brandon Creps

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Looks for Target (4/11)

  1. fbzero

    SIG P320MAX

    Really just depends on what you might use it for. It is basically an X5 Legion that is dedicated for CO. It comes with no iron sights or option to install any. If that's all you want to do with it, then it comes with four 21 round mags and is pretty much good to go. If you think you might want to do Production, Limited Minor, or 3gun with this pistol, then the X5 Legion might be the better choice for you with your choice of optic(pay attention to what fits and doesn't so you can make informed choices...the Romeo3Max, for example would need an adapter plate. Trijicon SRO hangs over the ejection port if you don't get an adapter plate, etc. Romeo1Pro is direct mount and a good choice). The bummer there is that it comes with four 17 round magazines leaving you to buy base plates for more rounds or different magazines.
  2. Hey All, Just wanted to say thanks for all the feedback. Been a crazy busy week at work and this coming week isn't looking any better, so troubleshooting this is temporarily on the back-burner for now. When I do get to take a look, I'm going to start with a complete disassembly and cleaning and pay attention to the extractor, springs, etc to see if anything doesn't seem right. After that, I'll stick to factory FMJ's to see if the problem reoccurs or not.
  3. Any update? Driving mine with a drill right now, but would like to do something like this.
  4. fbzero

    X5 trigger work

    To follow up on the previous post, my P320 Max just got back from Robert Burke today. I haven't been able to actually shoot it with live ammo yet, of course, but thought I'd share my initial impressions... The total travel is definitely less on the TSA job vs GG. The reset distance seems pretty close and I couldn't confidently say which is shorter based on feel alone. As far as the lightest pull, I'd probably give that to GG, but keep in mind that I ended up putting a heavier return spring in because of how sluggish the reset was(light isn't everything; crisp is equally important IMHO). The break is definitely cleaner on the TSA trigger, no question. Can't say much more than that without putting rounds down range and seeing what happens with the hits and on the timer. Initial impression is that it definitely seems like it is probably better overall, as it should be for the price premium. Good enough to justify the price difference for a lowly B-class shooter? Not likely, but the P320 Max was an early b-day present to myself and I didn't want to skimp
  5. Thanks for the reply Bdh821; I actually just saw some of your videos on YT the other day, good shooting! In response to your questions... How often do you clean the gas system? I'd say that I probably don't have any more than 2K rounds through it so far after the most recent match and that I last cleaned the gas system around 1K. Put in the TTI extra power spring for the +11 extensions - Figured this would be worth doing if for no other reason than to avoid lock back issues, just couldn't think of how it might cause this type of malfunction. When have you last changed the extractor spring? I haven't even taken it apart that far to date, though after this last round of issues at a match, I intend to do so and look for any obvious problems. Figured I'd probably change it at the same time just to be thorough whether I see any issues or not. How often do you clean behind the extractor? By "behind", do you mean the part that grabs onto the rim of the cases to pull them out of the chamber? If so, I'd say every 2-3 local matches(~150 round count each), and always before anything bigger. What is your ammo load data? Usually I shoot 135gr Blues over 3.5gr Sport Pistol, but they were pretty back-ordered last time I needed projectiles. This last match, I had one malfunction with 124gr S&B factory ammunition followed by one malfunction with 125gr DG bullets over 3.9gr Sport Pistol. I did not mix the ammunition in the magazines; Once I didn't have enough of the factory ammo to finish a stage, I loaded up with just the reloads.
  6. Hello, I'm reaching out for assistance in troubleshooting an ongoing problem with my MPX(Competition/Gen2.5). Unfortunately, the problem has been hard to duplicate for diagnosis. It only seems to happen on the timer, so I'm usually in a rush to clear it instead of diagnose it. Even more frustrating, it has generally run 100% at local matches, and only seems to do this at bigger matches(just my luck!). Basically, it ends up with either two rounds in the chamber area or possibly one round and one case that may have failed to eject. I'm not sure which since it's always in the clock, I just know that in each occurrence the RO's have told me that they saw two pieces of brass come out when I got the mag stripped and racked the bolt a few times. The most recent time, the magazine was also very hard to strip when this happened. From memory, I think it has happened more often than not with a magazine with a TTI extension on it, stock spring. Obviously I know I'm not giving much to go on as far as an exact diagnosis here, so I'll just make it a more simple with a couple questions; Did those of you who have these MPX's running reliably change anything in regards to extraction to get it there? Most people I've seen suggest extra power springs for magazines with extensions described the problems encountered as failure to lock back on the last round...could a magazine spring that is too weak cause the type of failures I am getting? TIA!
  7. I used to do it every 2-300 rounds. Ended up with a squib at a match, and I'm 99.9% sure that it was from having a brain-fart, checking a powder charge, and forgetting to dump it back in the case. Now I check once at the beginning of each loading session. Haven't ever had it change on me and I've never had another squib.
  8. fbzero

    X5 trigger work

    I currently have a P320 X5 Legion that I installed the GG kit into and a P320 Max with Robert Burke for him to work his magic. Obviously there is a considerable price difference between the two, so I'm interested to see how they compare when it gets back. Both seem to have their proponents. The GG kit definitely lightens things up and smooths them out decently. I initially used the light trigger return spring, but have since changed to their "snappy" reset spring because the return was so sluggish. All in all, I consider it a decent upgrade. It's light enough that weight is not a distraction, and while there is some "mush", it's minimal enough that the chances of noticing it after the timer goes off are pretty much zero. It does have more take-up than some other options, which is intentional per GG to ensure that no safeties are disabled by taking out too much pre-travel. If TSA takes out more pre-travel than the GG, it is my assumption that it will not be to the extent that any safety features are disabled. That's the difference between a gunsmith doing his/her art though, and making a mass-produced drop-in kit. Non-gunsmiths like myself don't necessarily know where the line is, so GG's approach is correct for their product.
  9. N330 was designed specifically for 9mm, but for shooting sports, N320 is probably a better choice. N330 gives good accuracy, but doesn't seem to burn very cleanly for me until I hit 140+ PF. N320 burns pretty clean around the 131-135 PF that most of us go for in minor and is plenty accurate.
  10. fbzero

    I Need Some Loctite

    NP! I had never heard of it until I got a CHPWS MOS plate for one of my Glocks. Looked into it because it's what their instructions recommended and a lot of people who had previously ran into issues with blue loctite said it worked better for them so I gave it a try. Best of luck, hope your issue is resolved with the new screws!
  11. fbzero

    I Need Some Loctite

    Red loctite or staking are probably both a bit extreme, IMHO. Blue loctite 243 is one option(242 works too, but 243 is supposed to be a bit more tolerant of oils). Clean the threads in your slide and on the screws, then degrease them. After that, you can apply the blue loctite to the threads on the screws, install the sight, and torque to spec. Allow to cure for at least 24 hours before using. Another options is vibratite VC3. Clean and degrease the screws with this option as well, then apply the VC3 to the bottom half or so of the screws, then let them sit for 10-30 minutes before installing the sight and torquing to spec. Of those two options, both *should* work, but I've had better luck with the VC3. As a bonus, it's less messy. Seems to dry into almost a rubber on the screw threads, which is supposed to help absorb vibrations and such. Loctite dries into a crusty mess and it seems to me like shock/vibrations just break it down over time and it eventually fails.
  12. Oh, hey Bob, didn't pay attention to where you were from or realize who I was talking to when I posted that lol! Hopefully the ammo situation won't be like this much longer...getting frustrating. Remington started manufacturing ammo again just recently I believe, so maybe that'll help some...
  13. I have two 3gun rifles, but one of them is very similar to your son's setup. Biggest difference is that I went with the gunner profile with the pinned/welded comp. I want to say that it came in just over 6lb with the 1-4x optic on it. When I was building it and talking to some other local 3gunners, I had several try to tell me that I'd never use it due to recoil compared to my other rifle. My other rifle was probably closer to 9lb with a Stretch 16, Razor 1-6x, SJC Titan, etc. At the end of the day, the heavier rifle does recoil slightly less and is more accurate at longer range. The lighter one shoots plenty soft, is accurate enough for the sport, and feels much more mobile on a fast stage. Most of the matches close to me don't go past 200y...guess which one gets used more?
  14. fbzero

    Shield Arms

    From their blog on this issue: https://shieldarms.com/s15-drop-free Towards the bottom there is a link to a YT video with a "fix".
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