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    Charles Kim

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  1. I'd pass on the FFB. TNT shell plates are better made.
  2. Correct. Immortal arms is a dealer for TNT shell plates. Immortal Arms uses Ammobots to test TNT shell plates at very fast speeds. That should tell you something about the quality/fit/function of TNT shell plates. Everything they sell is well tested and I've yet to be disappointed with anything I've purchased from them. https://immortobot.com/ disclaimer: Not affiliated with anyone and I've purchased all my stuff.
  3. I'm not sure the motor on the Dillon variable speed case feeder can handle much more than that. I had issues when I dumped a large 24 oz cupful of 9mm brass (around 275 9mm) into my case feeder. It would stop working until I let the motor cool off an and would restart. Probably exceeded the thermal limits. You might want to check and see if the case is bouncing in the funnel as it drops and flipping upside down.
  4. Any chance the shell plate you were using were FF&B? I've not had any issues with Burly TNT #5 shell plate. I plan to run the Burly TNT shell plates on all my Dillons. Much better quality than OEM. I know there are some issues with #1 plate with some small primer .45 ACP brass due to the much thicker and out of spec rims.
  5. I'm using Redding dies and I'm not experiencing any issues with primer pull back. I make sure I round off the sharp 90 degree corners to keep them from piercing the primer. I do agree there is a benefit of running 2 pass. You could always get a "ringer" primer and have issues on the swaging and priming station. This is what I've been thinking about doing after dry tumbling brass using 2 different presses. First pass - size, decap, swage/expand, and prime. Second pass - drop powder, seat and crimp I'm thinking this should result in more consistent powder drops since I'm not having to deal with varying sizing effort which can vary from case to case. This is where I see the value of in having an automated press.
  6. Dillon 1050/1100 shell plates are pretty soft and allows for alot of flexing. I don't know what material they're using, but it is certainly not tool steel like Burly TNT shell plates. Burly TNT shell plate has much tighter pockets so you get very little case wobble as the shell plate is rotating. I wonder if they introduced this new shell plate so it would hold up/work with their automated setup (DillonBot or some other name to be determined at release). https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_40&products_id=309 This shellplate is for loading 9x19/Luger, 38 Super, and many other casings that have the same diameter on a Dillon 1050. It's a direct replacement for Dillon Precision part #12938. We've improved the shellplates by: CNC machining our shellplates from A-2 tool steel. Using custom extractor gauges made to SAAMI cartridge specifications as a "go, no go" gauge for the shellplate pockets. If the casing doesn't fit into the pocket it won't work. Lowering the shellplate pockets. This greatly reduces casing wobble and helps with casing insertion into the shellplate. Hardening and annealing the shellplate while flat. Engraving the shellplate character on the outer edge for easy reference. In the end you have a shellplate that's extremely durable, perfect for high speed loading, and is 100% made right here in the USA. SHIPS FREE
  7. I believe issue you're having is due to crimped primer pockets on the S&B brass. Do you have this issue with other 9mm brass? S&B brass is known for having tight primer pockets. It would be a good idea to run them through a swager.
  8. Nothing special about Dillon dies. Redding competition pro die set is so much better.
  9. try taking some some fine sandpaper or stone and remove the sharp edges on the decapping pin. This will prevent it from getting sucked back in.
  10. No need for loctite. Be sure to use a real tacky grease like Schaeffer 229. This is red grease Dillon uses. https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Manufacturing-Ultra-Supreme-Grease/dp/B08W62DK1X
  11. https://www.1911forum.com/threads/dillon-powder-measure.906522/ Post #31 from page 2 is very good. https://www.1911forum.com/threads/dillon-powder-measure.906522/page-2
  12. Timken BH-1610 Koyo BH-1610 Needle Roller Bearing, Full Complement Drawn Cup, Open, Inch, 1" ID, 1-5/16" OD, 5/8" Width, 5200rpm Maximum Rotational Speed https://www.amazon.com/Koyo-BH-1610-Bearing-Complement-Rotational/dp/B007EDTXS6 Bearings for RL1050 are different. I have the part # for that too if you need it.
  13. Which position you pick on handle length will be a variable too. Be sure to test it with the handle on to see which one works. I have mine mounted at 39" and it works on the shortest handle setting. Originally had it at 41.5" with 4" inlinefab mount and it was too tall where I had a hard time seeing inside the case. RL1100 has a taller frame compared to RL1050, Super 1050 so be sure to mount it where you can see inside the case after powder fill.
  14. Priming on the down stroke and built is swager makes the RL1050/Super1050/RL1100 better than a 650/750 for me. Better/more comfortable ergonomics will save wear and tear on you shoulder.
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