RIA VR80 coming in 2019

[RH45]

1 hour ago, robertg5322 said:

Whole gun is Turkish.

 

Not defending Turkish guns, but mine runs great, and the sights, cheap as they are work fine.

 

Curious if there are any really high round count guns out there, and how do the owners like them.

According to what I read on the VR80 Facebook page, some have 10k.

 I know that it’s a lot less than a lot of old Remingtons, it’s not much, but at my age, I doubt that both of my 3-gun shotguns, put together won’t get that 

[robertg5322]

51 minutes ago, RH45 said:

According to what I read on the VR80 Facebook page, some have 10k.

 I know that it’s a lot less than a lot of old Remingtons, it’s not much, but at my age, I doubt that both of my 3-gun shotguns, put together won’t get that 

Good to know they'll last that long. Seem well built, but you never can tell with a shotgun, as the Mossberg 930 demonstrated.

[RH45]

My brushes for cleaning 2011 magazines works fine for 5, and 10 round magazines, but, not so much on the longer magazines.

What are you guys using to clean the 15s and 19s?

[gerritm]

We just use the regular 2011 brush and go in from both ends. I have seen guys use the long house type dusters off Amazon.

 

In my reliability quest, I shot a 3-gun match last Saturday. Very dusty & dry roadways to the bays. Used a gun sock to keep it covered and changed to Otis Dry Lube instead of my normal Mobil 1 oil or WD40 Teflon dry lube. Only about 50 rounds total, but it ran perfect with no problems. Used the Otis to lube the inside of the mags, also.

 

gerritm

 

 

[RH45]

1 hour ago, gerritm said:

We just use the regular 2011 brush and go in from both ends. I have seen guys use the long house type dusters off Amazon.

 

In my reliability quest, I shot a 3-gun match last Saturday. Very dusty & dry roadways to the bays. Used a gun sock to keep it covered and changed to Otis Dry Lube instead of my normal Mobil 1 oil or WD40 Teflon dry lube. Only about 50 rounds total, but it ran perfect with no problems. Used the Otis to lube the inside of the mags, also.

 

gerritm

 

 

Thanks 

[RH45]

20 hours ago, gerritm said:

We just use the regular 2011 brush and go in from both ends. I have seen guys use the long house type dusters off Amazon.

 

In my reliability quest, I shot a 3-gun match last Saturday. Very dusty & dry roadways to the bays. Used a gun sock to keep it covered and changed to Otis Dry Lube instead of my normal Mobil 1 oil or WD40 Teflon dry lube. Only about 50 rounds total, but it ran perfect with no problems. Used the Otis to lube the inside of the mags, also.

 

gerritm

 

 

I was generally running graphite in magazines, but it’s messy. Saw some aerosol graphite, that is supposed to dry, but haven’t tried it. I was never impressed with silicone. I’ll have to try some of the Otis stuff.

Is anyone cutting the springs for the magazine release? I wouldn’t want it light enough that I would lose a magazine while shooting, but I really struggle to get the magazine release to push.

[CO3Gunner]

Lots of magazine discussions, so thought I would add my 2-cents.

 

Here is what works for me with magazines and related:

1. Remove the last round bolt hold open tab.
2. Lightly sand down the bottom corners and edges of the follower.
3. For 19-round magazines, loosen the magazine body connector and then retighten, but not too tight, use Blue Locktite. Sometimes they come too tight from the factory, causing the follower to catch. 

• Steps #1, #2 and #3 help the follower move freely up and down the long banana of the magazine body!

1. I put skateboard tap on the outside mags and cover the slots to prevent dust/dirt from getting in. The extra grip helps seat the magazine into place with hot, sweaty hands, especially on a closed bolt.
2. If needed, lightly file down the front lips of the magazine and/or the rear corners of the mouth. On some mags, the bolt will hit/graze the top of the magazine (you will see bright metal on the magazine as evidence, if it is occurring). It will wear down eventually, but in the meantime can cause various malfunctions (e.g., double feeds, etc.)
3. A few times a year, use spray graphite lubricant on the inside of magazine body. Disassemble first, of course! Give it ample time to dry before reassembling (about 15-20 minutes, just follow directions on the can). 
4. Once a month or so, depending on conditions, disassemble the magazine and run a microfiber cloth through the body. I find a one-piece cleaning rod useful for pushing the cloth through the body. If you drop a mag in the dirt, do this at the range before your next stage! It is easy for fine dust or grit to get between the follower and the mag body, causing all many of problems. 
5. Once a month or so and on older mags, I will gently stretch the springs out a bit and put them back in. Replace the springs after a year or so.
6. Replace the plastic end plates with metal ones. If you drop them just the right way and the bottom of the magazine hits something hard (i.e., a rock, hard floor, etc.), the plastic bottom will crack. Worse, it can simply fail  resulting in 19 shot shells flying out the bottom propelled by spring tension. It is spectacularly funny to watch, but not so good for your stage time . I prefer Taylor Freelance magazine extensions. In addition to removing a risk of failure, the heavier extension also helps the mag drop freely when performing a mag change. 
7. Replace the stock magazine release spring with a lighter weight spring from A3G Munitions. They offer replacements in light, medium and heavy. Medium works great for me. I suppose you can clip a few coils, but for ~$5 it is worth the peace of mind having the A3G spring: https://www.a3gmunitions.com/product/a3gmunitions-magazine-release-spring-for-rock-island-armory-vr80/ 

Hope that all helps, and I am sure others can add to this list. 

 

 

[RH45]

1 hour ago, CO3Gunner said:

Lots of magazine discussions, so thought I would add my 2-cents.

 

Here is what works for me with magazines and related:

1. Remove the last round bolt hold open tab.
2. Lightly sand down the bottom corners and edges of the follower.
3. For 19-round magazines, loosen the magazine body connector and then retighten, but not too tight, use Blue Locktite. Sometimes they come too tight from the factory, causing the follower to catch. 

• Steps #1, #2 and #3 help the follower move freely up and down the long banana of the magazine body!

1. I put skateboard tap on the outside mags and cover the slots to prevent dust/dirt from getting in. The extra grip helps seat the magazine into place with hot, sweaty hands, especially on a closed bolt.
2. If needed, lightly file down the front lips of the magazine and/or the rear corners of the mouth. On some mags, the bolt will hit/graze the top of the magazine (you will see bright metal on the magazine as evidence, if it is occurring). It will wear down eventually, but in the meantime can cause various malfunctions (e.g., double feeds, etc.)
3. A few times a year, use spray graphite lubricant on the inside of magazine body. Disassemble first, of course! Give it ample time to dry before reassembling (about 15-20 minutes, just follow directions on the can). 
4. Once a month or so, depending on conditions, disassemble the magazine and run a microfiber cloth through the body. I find a one-piece cleaning rod useful for pushing the cloth through the body. If you drop a mag in the dirt, do this at the range before your next stage! It is easy for fine dust or grit to get between the follower and the mag body, causing all many of problems. 
5. Once a month or so and on older mags, I will gently stretch the springs out a bit and put them back in. Replace the springs after a year or so.
6. Replace the plastic end plates with metal ones. If you drop them just the right way and the bottom of the magazine hits something hard (i.e., a rock, hard floor, etc.), the plastic bottom will crack. Worse, it can simply fail  resulting in 19 shot shells flying out the bottom propelled by spring tension. It is spectacularly funny to watch, but not so good for your stage time . I prefer Taylor Freelance magazine extensions. In addition to removing a risk of failure, the heavier extension also helps the mag drop freely when performing a mag change. 
7. Replace the stock magazine release spring with a lighter weight spring from A3G Munitions. They offer replacements in light, medium and heavy. Medium works great for me. I suppose you can clip a few coils, but for ~$5 it is worth the peace of mind having the A3G spring: https://www.a3gmunitions.com/product/a3gmunitions-magazine-release-spring-for-rock-island-armory-vr80/ 

Hope that all helps, and I am sure others can add to this list. 

 

 

Thanks for the information 

I’ll have to get some springs coming.

[gerritm]

1 hour ago, RH45 said:

I was generally running graphite in magazines, but it’s messy. Saw some aerosol graphite, that is supposed to dry, but haven’t tried it. I was never impressed with silicone. I’ll have to try some of the Otis stuff.

Is anyone cutting the springs for the magazine release? I wouldn’t want it light enough that I would lose a magazine while shooting, but I really struggle to get the magazine release to push.

If you read about the Otis Dry lube it was developed for the military for desert use. Been using it off and on for awhile. Really like it. Not a fan of graphite for this.

 

Mag release is stiff, but will loosen up after time.

 

gerritm

[beaverfishing]

So in the middle of doing some reserch. Wondering if anyone has put the A5 buffer system or just the stock extension from vltor on there vr80. 

[Phries]

Help! Where can I find a mid length handguard with a full bottom rail for the VR 80 like the red one has? I have been looking everywhere.

Edited May 24, 2022 by Phries
Missed word

[CO3Gunner]

My solution was to reach out to A3G Munitions for a custom carbon fiber handguard with MLOK slots, which provide the ability to add various accessories including rails of any size. See photo for how it looks/works. 

 

Mark Leeber was extremely helpful (and patient) with me

[SuperTed]

On 5/24/2022 at 9:01 AM, Phries said:

Help! Where can I find a mid length handguard with a full bottom rail for the VR 80 like the red one has? I have been looking everywhere.

 

I have the Tooth and Nail Armory handguard for the VR80.

 

14.25": https://www.toothandnailarmory.com/product/VR80_14.html

 

16.25": https://www.toothandnailarmory.com/product/VR80_16.html

Edited May 28, 2022 by SuperTed

[gerritm]

One more check type issue on my VR80 quest for reliability. I have been chasing a couple of random failure to feed issues that turn it into a bolt gun single shot on occasion. Thought it was a dirty gas system. Ran 100% 2 weeks ago and then this happened again this weekend.

 

If you are running the Taccom buffer/flat wire spring with commercial or milspec tube.

 

Running 1145 or1200 FPS AA this would happen. Where it doesn't feed the next round and if you rack it manually it feeds. 

 

Took the Taccom buffer/spring out put original buffer tube/buffer/spring combo back and ran 100 rounds of same ammo to test and 100% run with 3 different mags including Taccom plus 5. 

 

Tim's CS was spot on and he suggested cutting a couple of coils off the spring. Kind of thought that, but wanted to hear it from the expert. Will let know results when I try.

 

One other thing. Keep the nuts/bolts tight on the mag coupler. Had one loosen up and cause and issue. Retightened all and back to 100%. 

 

gerritm

[SuperTed]

2 hours ago, gerritm said:

One more check type issue on my VR80 quest for reliability. I have been chasing a couple of random failure to feed issues that turn it into a bolt gun single shot on occasion. Thought it was a dirty gas system. Ran 100% 2 weeks ago and then this happened again this weekend.

 

If you are running the Taccom buffer/flat wire spring with commercial or milspec tube.

 

Running 1145 or1200 FPS AA this would happen. Where it doesn't feed the next round and if you rack it manually it feeds. 

 

Took the Taccom buffer/spring out put original buffer tube/buffer/spring combo back and ran 100 rounds of same ammo to test and 100% run with 3 different mags including Taccom plus 5. 

 

Tim's CS was spot on and he suggested cutting a couple of coils off the spring. Kind of thought that, but wanted to hear it from the expert. Will let know results when I try.

 

One other thing. Keep the nuts/bolts tight on the mag coupler. Had one loosen up and cause and issue. Retightened all and back to 100%. 

 

gerritm

 

I've had issues with RIO and Fiochi 2.75" 00 Buck getting jammed into the bolt if I had about 5 rounds or more in the magazine.   After taking a closer look, it looks like it's the way RIO/Fiochi crimps the end and it's a bit thicker so the bolt gets stuck on the next round as it's feeding the current one.  That next round then ends up having a bit of a divot in it too.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UUUrHAU

 

If it was a spring issue, I believe I would have a problem with other brands but I don't.  It's only certain brands.  

 

You ever see anything like this?

Edited May 31, 2022 by SuperTed

[robertg5322]

22 minutes ago, SuperTed said:

 

I've had issues with RIO and Fiochi 2.75" 00 Buck getting jammed into the bolt if I had about 5 rounds or more in the magazine.   After taking a closer look, it looks like it's the way RIO/Fiochi crimps the end and it's a bit thicker so the bolt gets stuck on the next round as it's feeding the current one.  That next round then ends up having a bit of a divot in it too.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UUUrHAU

 

If it was a spring issue, I believe I would have a problem with other brands but I don't.  It's only certain brands.  

 

You ever see anything like this?

I have the same issue with the same ammo and came to the same conclusion.

 

I think the rounds stacking, each a bit further forward than the round below it combined the the extra length is the issue if more than five rounds are loaded. I was wondering if anyone else was having the same issue.

[SuperTed]

2 hours ago, robertg5322 said:

I have the same issue with the same ammo and came to the same conclusion.

 

I think the rounds stacking, each a bit further forward than the round below it combined the the extra length is the issue if more than five rounds are loaded. I was wondering if anyone else was having the same issue.

 

To be honest, I am SO glad someone else is having the issue.  I thought maybe I had a manufacture defect or I was losing my f'n mind. 

 

Any other rounds you had problems with?  Any rounds you know work just fine?  I've attached a spreadsheet here with the brands and types of shells I've tried so far.

VR80 Shotgun Shell Chart.xlsx

Edited May 31, 2022 by SuperTed

[robertg5322]

7 minutes ago, SuperTed said:

 

To be honest, I am SO glad someone else is having the issue.  I thought maybe I had a manufacture defect or I was losing my f'n mind. 

 

Any other rounds you had problems with?  Any rounds you know work just fine?  I've attached a spreadsheet here with the brands and types of shells I've tried so far.

VR80 Shotgun Shell Chart.xlsx 118.03 kB · 1 download

Yeah, misery loves company, right?

 

No other rounds give my gun any problems. I've run Herters 1050fps target loads, Centurion slugs, SBBuck (Sellier & Beloit) and various other target rounds, only those ever so slightly longer Rio Royal Buck buckshot loads that cause the issue.

 

Funny cause they're less than 1/16" longer than normal 2 3/4" loads.

[gerritm]

13 hours ago, SuperTed said:

 

I've had issues with RIO and Fiochi 2.75" 00 Buck getting jammed into the bolt if I had about 5 rounds or more in the magazine.   After taking a closer look, it looks like it's the way RIO/Fiochi crimps the end and it's a bit thicker so the bolt gets stuck on the next round as it's feeding the current one.  That next round then ends up having a bit of a divot in it too.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UUUrHAU

 

If it was a spring issue, I believe I would have a problem with other brands but I don't.  It's only certain brands.  

 

You ever see anything like this?

That is exactly what the Fiocchi's are doing. Doesn't happen all the time, but when it does there is a bulge/divot on one side of the crimp and doesn't feed. My MKA did the same with them. Never tried RIO.

 

The other thing that has happened with the Fiocchi on occasion is on extraction it will rip the shell case in half and leave it in the chamber not allowing the next round to feed. I did polish the chamber and it hasn't happened lately, but gave the Fiocchi's to my son for his Benelli. Just running AA and Federal Top Gun.

 

gerritm

[robertg5322]

3 hours ago, gerritm said:

That is exactly what the Fiocchi's are doing. Doesn't happen all the time, but when it does there is a bulge/divot on one side of the crimp and doesn't feed. My MKA did the same with them. Never tried RIO.

 

The other thing that has happened with the Fiocchi on occasion is on extraction it will rip the shell case in half and leave it in the chamber not allowing the next round to feed. I did polish the chamber and it hasn't happened lately, but gave the Fiocchi's to my son for his Benelli. Just running AA and Federal Top Gun.

 

gerritm

Haven't had it rip a case in half (yet), something to look forward to I guess.

 

I still have a bunch of those buckshot rounds left, malfunction practice I guess.

[meeesterpaul]

On 5/31/2022 at 5:09 PM, SuperTed said:

 

I've had issues with RIO and Fiochi 2.75" 00 Buck getting jammed into the bolt if I had about 5 rounds or more in the magazine.   After taking a closer look, it looks like it's the way RIO/Fiochi crimps the end and it's a bit thicker so the bolt gets stuck on the next round as it's feeding the current one.  That next round then ends up having a bit of a divot in it too.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UUUrHAU

 

If it was a spring issue, I believe I would have a problem with other brands but I don't.  It's only certain brands.  

 

You ever see anything like this?

I've been running reloads recently. After separating the better quality ones from compromised ones with less good crimps or hulls I would cycle them through the gun without firing them. Even those B-list shells would run until the day I cleaned the gun before a match  without running it again - and apparently didn't lube well enough. Before the end of the day I was having cycling trouble. Ran my last box of Federal factory anmo through.  For lube I have been using Hornady One Shot for a couple months. I'm not sure that it holds up to a long match or two. Took a look between stages and had some synthetic gun oil on my cart. Dripped some oil on the bottom of the bolt and went back to reloads again and they ran fine.

Btw; loads were 1.065oz 16gr Alliant e3, about 1160fps. This multi-thousand round gun will run 1.125oz 1050fps loads - when I don't run it dry. 

 

 

 

Edited June 2, 2022 by meeesterpaul

[Boomstick303]

Does anyone have a go to slug shotgun shell they like a lot and what do you expect from the slug in regards to accuracy with their VR80?

 

I have tried the following.

 

Fiocchi 3-Gun Match 3G+JM 23/4"

X-TREME 12 GA 2 3/4 LEAD SLUG

 

A couple of other Major Label brands that I cannot remember off the top of my head.

 

Most of the slugs I have tried travel around 1300 FPS.  None of them can be dialed in really.  POI changes consistently for a POA.  I can hit a normal USPSA size target at 100 yds if I aim at the center of the target but POI is all over the place.  I am worried I cannot hit say a C zone sized target at 100 yards with my VR80.  Is this what to expect or can I do more to make POA meet POI better.  

 

I have a ton of Federal slugs that travel at 1600 FPS I have been hesitant to shoot through the VR80 since it is tuned for shotgun shells with a velocity of around 1300 FPS.  I assume it would be ok to shoot these on occasion but not on the regular?  Would that assumption be correct?

[outerlimits]

1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:

Does anyone have a go to slug shotgun shell they like a lot and what do you expect from the slug in regards to accuracy with their VR80?

 

I have tried the following.

 

Fiocchi 3-Gun Match 3G+JM 23/4"

X-TREME 12 GA 2 3/4 LEAD SLUG

 

A couple of other Major Label brands that I cannot remember off the top of my head.

 

Most of the slugs I have tried travel around 1300 FPS.  None of them can be dialed in really.  POI changes consistently for a POA.  I can hit a normal USPSA size target at 100 yds if I aim at the center of the target but POI is all over the place.  I am worried I cannot hit say a C zone sized target at 100 yards with my VR80.  Is this what to expect or can I do more to make POA meet POI better.  

 

I have a ton of Federal slugs that travel at 1600 FPS I have been hesitant to shoot through the VR80 since it is tuned for shotgun shells with a velocity of around 1300 FPS.  I assume it would be ok to shoot these on occasion but not on the regular?  Would that assumption be correct?

seems odd-every vr80 owner i shoot with feels the same as i do-they group very tight.  i have shot a 5 shot group at 50 yds inside of 4".  that's good enuf for most work.

 

u using a red dot?  

[Don_B]

BP slugs have been fairly accurate  for me as well as Rem reduced recoil slugs. 

[Boomstick303]

3 minutes ago, Don_B said:

BP slugs have been fairly accurate  for m

 

Thanks.  I forgot about these and I actually was able to try a couple, but enough to come up with a definitive answer.

 

Do you have a source for these slugs?   They were always out when I looked for them before.