cody6510 Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 First time post, I've been reading for a while now, but have yet to answer my question. I built a new rifle, but cannot get it to run for the life of me. The systems I've assembled contains the following: 18" Criterion Barrel with a rifle length gas system Seekins Adjustable Block JP Low Mass Carrier BCM Bolt with JP enhanced rings installed JP Low mass buffer and spring AR Gold Trigger The problem I'm having is the carrier is not locking to the rear on an empty mag and will not pickup the next round in the magazine. I have tried various types of factory .223 ammo. When testing I adjusted the block as Seekins advised me to, 1/4 turn at a time. I ended up with the block wide open, 4 turns out, and was still experiencing issues. For what it's worth, the gun was not even fully extracting the case until I had a little over 2 turns in the block. I've double checked gas block and gas tube alignment, both of which appear to be in good order. I spoke to Criterion and they were great to deal with. Their suggestion was replace all the low mass components and Seekins block with mil spec components. They believe (as I recall) my issues are related to the gas pressure still being too high when the bolt is trying to unlock, therefore the extractor is forcefully ripping the case out of the chamber and slowing the bolt down. This very well could be the problem, but my question is how does everyone else get their guns to run with low mass components? If Criterion is correct, how do I correct the timing? The rifle is for 3 gun and I would prefer to stick with low mass. I've already came to grips with the idea that this build is going to get more expensive, I just want my gun to run. What suggestions/ideas does everyone have? Thanks for your help. Cody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 What length is your buffer tube, carbine or rifle ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody6510 Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 (edited) It's a rifle length buffer. Edited October 14, 2018 by cody6510 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Ok, removes one possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRider Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 You mentioned that you checked gas tube and block alignment, are you sure the port in the gas block is centered over the barrel gas port (front to back)? The mil-spec dimensions allow for the hand guard retainer at the gas block, most gas blocks are also machined so they will work with old style hand guards so you must leave a space between the barrel shoulder and gas block for proper alignment. Hurley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt1911 Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 I ditched adjustable gas blocks long ago. They work fine in practice, but during a match they tend to close up giving a single shot rifle. Try a standard gas block and like was said above, make sure the holes line up properly not just side to side but also front to back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Try standard gas rings. I've had bad luck with the JP rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody6510 Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 6 hours ago, TonytheTiger said: Try standard gas rings. I've had bad luck with the JP rings. I can try mil spec rings out tomorrow. I will also take a second look at the block. Right now it is against the shoulder on the. barrel. I was assuming alignment was corrct based on the dimple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggulp Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 First guess would be gas block alignment. As HRider mentioned, on most barrels, the gas port is drilled to account for a handguard retainer. If your gas block is sitting against the shoulder, it's about ~.030 to far back. If you don't have calipers to measure, a gas block dimpling tool, or gas block alignment pins, then pull a credit card out of your wallet and use that as a spacer.. It'll get you close enough for Government work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 With low mass parts and the gas block running wide open, I'm guessing your gas block isn't aligned. I've got an almost identical setup and my gas block is only open about 50% and that's a few "clicks" past the point where it locks back on an empty mag so it'll still cycle when it gets dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TalkingMonkey Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 Could try reinstalling your gas block using this tool to ensure alignment: UNIQUETEK - AR-15 GAS BLOCK ALIGNER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 gas block should be .025-.030" off the shoulder of the barrel. low mass carrier, isnt your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody6510 Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 So I checked my block again, and was able to tell things were in allignment by rooming the adjustment screw and looking inside the block. This was with the block against the shoulder. I figured I would try spacing the block off the shoulder and give it a try anyway. I spaced the block about .025 off the shoulder and shot the gun today. The problem still exists and the gun is functioning exactly how it was when the block was against the shoulder. Any other thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amra86 Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 I had a bad gas tube one time. It leaked a lot of gas out the front of the tube. What size is the gas port? I like a .101 gas port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodsk Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 with a rifle length gas, I would go with a standard gas block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRider Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 As stated above, gas tube could be the problem, I would try a different one. I have also seen gas leakage between the gas key and carrier cause short stroking. If you have another bolt and or bolt/carrier assembly (or a friend with some parts), start changing only one thing at the time until you find the problem. It sounds as though you are not getting enough gas to the bolt to properly operate the mechanism. If you have a mil-spec buffer spring, test it in place of the JP spring also. I have never known of an AR10 spring being packaged as an AR15 spring, but I suppose anything is possible. I have two rifles set up similar to yours and they are very reliable. I also have an AR10 with a Criterion barrel and a Seekins adjustable gas block that works. I believe that you will find a part that is out of spec on your build. Good luck and let us know what you find out. Hurley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase214 Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 As stated my buddy had the same issue and it turned out to be the gas block was installed incorrectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stick Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 I would leave the gas block wide open until you get the gun functioning properly. Once you get the issue resolved, then you adjust the gas block to your specific load. Definitely sounds like a gas issue to me. Did the tube come attached to the gas block or did you do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickB Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 Don’t eyeball your gas block installation. Mic the distance from the barrel shoulder to the start of the gas port. Now mic the distance from the back of the gas block to the start of the gas hole. You will more than likely have a 0.02-0.03” difference. Use a feeler guague up against the barrel shoulder to ensure correct offset. Another trick is to cut the end of a toothpick and drop it into the gas block hole (make sure your gas metering screw is all the way out). Position the barrel with the gas port facing down then slip the gas block on upside down. Turn the assembly right side up and look down the bore. Wiggle the gas block around. When the holes are aligned the toothpick will drop from the gas block into the barrel. Tighten gas block. The toothpick piece should fall out of the barrel, if not use a rod to push it out. All done and gas block will be perfectly aligned. Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve8140 Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Any chance the buffer spring is too stiff for the low mass BCG? Maybe not allowing it to travel far enough back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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