stupid question but need to know

[Fasthenk65]

Currently recapping / re-sizing on a rockchucker, hand priming and the rest on an LNL for ultimate reliability.

 

Want to do the same but then with XL650 with case feeder. Can I remove the priming section completely like I did with the LNL?

 

Rest is clear...

 

Thank you!!

[Currently]

I do it all the time.   Especially when processing military brass.  

Universal decapping die, RT1200 trimmer and then I swage using the Dillon 600 swager. 

[cvincent]

2 screws and the whole assembly comes off. You do loose the “locator pin” as it’s part of the priming assembly.
Don’t really get the “ultimate reliability” thing. The press works. User error is where the problems are.


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[Fasthenk65]

18 hours ago, cvincent said:

2 screws and the whole assembly comes off. You do loose the “locator pin” as it’s part of the priming assembly.
Don’t really get the “ultimate reliability” thing. The press works. User error is where the problems are.


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Vincent, ultimate reliability from seating primers deep enough for a highly tuned DA/SA gun... The 650 you cannot adjust primer depth.... so not reliable for my tuned guns...

[Fasthenk65]

Tnx for all that I can skip the  decapping / sizing / primer sitting stages... 

[Tom S.]

Just one screw removes the primer advance cam, deactivating the priming system.

[191138sc]

1 hour ago, Tom S. said:

Just one screw removes the primer advance cam, deactivating the priming system

Do it all the time.

[TDA]

16 hours ago, Fasthenk65 said:

Vincent, ultimate reliability from seating primers deep enough for a highly tuned DA/SA gun... The 650 you cannot adjust primer depth.... so not reliable for my tuned guns...

 

"Primer depth" has absolutely nothing to do with anything.

 

Primers need to be fully seated in the case, period, which is what a XL650 will do if operated properly form a sturdy bench.

 

If you have primer seating problems with a 650, it's you, not the press!

 

You can have the same issues with your hand primer if you don't operate it properly.

Edited December 28, 2017 by TDA

[Fasthenk65]

Yes but by hand you can seat them deep (what I need) which is what a 650 cannot do if i am well informed?

[TDA]

The 650 has no depth stop or limiting device on the priming system *if maintained properly, so it seats the primers to the full depth of the primer pocket as long as you operate the handle up properly and have it mounted to a good, sturdy, bench.

 

*What I mean by "if maintained properly" is that some have had the primer punch back out (unscrew) which can limit the primer from fully seating, which isn't the fault of the press if you don't look at things and make sure everything is operating properly.

Edited December 28, 2017 by TDA

[zombywoof]

10 minutes ago, Fasthenk65 said:

Yes but by hand you can seat them deep (what I need) which is what a 650 cannot do if i am well informed?

I have seated Winchester primers to .014" with my 6 month old 650.

 

It is a feel when seating primers. Winchesters seem to be very mushy to me. I get a good stop with Federal and Fiocchi's.

 

I'm using a Tanfo with lightened trigger.

[RiggerJJ]

1 hour ago, TDA said:

 

"Primer depth" has absolutely nothing to do with anything.

 

Primers need to be fully seated in the case, period, which is what a XL650 will do if operated properly form a sturdy bench.

 

If you have primer seating problems with a 650, it's you, not the press!

 

You can have the same issues with your hand primer if you don't operate it properly.

Agreed.

The primer system on a 650 is the ultimate hand priming system; you can feel each primer go to full depth, AND you get auto case and primer feeding! Never had a problem with any of my "highly tuned" pistols either...

jj

[IHAVEGAS]

 

4 page thread but good input on 650 primer seating & effects of seating depth. I think its  page 2 where there is a note about tweaking a 650 to get a bit more depth. 

 

Running a 1050 that seats .010 - .015 for my stuff. 

Edited December 28, 2017 by IHAVEGAS

[Want2BS8ed]

Running a 1050 that seats .010 - .015 for my stuff. 

Consistent primer depth does matter and only a mechanical means can provide the necessary consistency stroke after stroke.

FWIW, the LNL priming system is horrid and the 1050 not only allows you to set consistent depth, but it primes on the down-stroke - totally eliminating the need for feel.


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[jcc7x7]

I shoot light sprung revolvers and do fine with primer seating on Dillons

Work on your primer seating technique.  Don't want to pile on you but REVO's are notorious for light strikes

Use Federal primers and the latest batch of Fiochhi primers are soft also

[jhgtyre]

3 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:

I shoot light sprung revolvers and do fine with primer seating on Dillons

Work on your primer seating technique.  Don't want to pile on you but REVO's are notorious for light strikes

Use Federal primers and the latest batch of Fiochhi primers are soft also

Same here, I load 38 Short Colt for my 627, which has a sub 5lb DA trigger pull, on an XL 650.  I run Federal primers and they are seated well below flush.  I have no problems with primer depth.

[RiggerJJ]

The only way primers can be consistent is when they are all fully seated. There is no "consistent depth", only seated or not. Once a primer bottoms out, it's there. There is nothing else to adjust. A hand primer can achieve this, or a 650, or a 1050, or any other seater. As long as the side walls of the primer hit the bottom of the pocket, it's seated.

jj

[IHAVEGAS]

8 hours ago, RiggerJJ said:

The only way primers can be consistent is when they are all fully seated. There is no "consistent depth", only seated or not. Once a primer bottoms out, it's there. There is nothing else to adjust. A hand primer can achieve this, or a 650, or a 1050, or any other seater. As long as the side walls of the primer hit the bottom of the pocket, it's seated.

jj

 

If you sort brass by head stamp and swage the primer pockets then it seems like you might do pretty good seating by feel. 

[Steve RA]

Take 10 cases, same make, and prime them.  If they are all seated fully you will notice a variance in the seating depth as the depth of the primer receptacle area will vary slightly from case to case.  So, as pointed out above, they all need to be seated fully, not just to a predetermined depth.

[IHAVEGAS]

Billions and billions (with apologies to Carl Sagan) have worked very well by seating to a predetermined depth. 

[Steve RA]

A lot depends on what you are shooting the cartridges in, 1911 will generally fire anything - many striker fired guns won't unless primers are fully seated.  Especially if the striker fired weapons have been modified for a lighter trigger pull.

[IHAVEGAS]

Agreed, with the caveat that many of us run a little close to the minimum with 1911/2011 hammer springs also. 

[LilBunniFuFu]

16 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:

I shoot light sprung revolvers and do fine with primer seating on Dillons

Work on your primer seating technique.  Don't want to pile on you but REVO's are notorious for light strikes

Use Federal primers and the latest batch of Fiochhi primers are soft also

 

The new fiocchi's are soft but I feel that the cup edge isn't as beveled as they used to be and I am getting much more sheared primer walls when the lip catches while seating. The old black boxes where fine the new red ones have this issue. 

[TDA]

On 12/30/2017 at 10:29 AM, IHAVEGAS said:

Agreed, with the caveat that many of us run a little close to the minimum with 1911/2011 hammer springs also. 

 

Changing main springs on a 1911 to reduce trigger pull makes no sense at all.

 

I run a 2 lb trigger with a 23 lb mainspring and can easily reduce it to 1.5 lb pull.

[IHAVEGAS]

4 hours ago, TDA said:

 

Changing main springs on a 1911 to reduce trigger pull makes no sense at all.

 

I run a 2 lb trigger with a 23 lb mainspring and can easily reduce it to 1.5 lb pull.

 

Different strokes I suppose. Running a 23 lb mainspring when an 18 is all you need seems silly to me but if you are not having durability or consistency issues then, great.