TDA Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) The point is, reducing the main spring to lighten the trigger is not necessary ON 1911/2011 PISTOLS, so why risk light strikes by doing so? Edited in bold. Edited January 1, 2018 by TDA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 25 minutes ago, TDA said: The point is, reducing the main spring to lighten the trigger is not necessary, so why risk light strikes by doing so? DA/SA pistols are a different animal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) 47 minutes ago, TDA said: The point is, reducing the main spring to lighten the trigger is not necessary ON 1911/2011 PISTOLS, so why risk light strikes by doing so? Edited in bold. I think the gunsmiths that do it believe that it gives them a more consistent and more durable trigger, but I don't pretend to be a 1911/2011 guru. I just follow the numbers pretty much like this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjyk5GDu7fYAhULKiYKHQX_AQ4QFggpMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.brownells.com%2Faspx%2Flearn%2Flearndetail.aspx%3Flid%3D10297&usg=AOvVaw019GbqKroRmfSFQZ5Qktxx and use the same 18# spring mentioned. Right or wrong, it is not a new or unusual practice. I do not get light strikes with my 2011's and my ammo but if they were self defense guns or I was using varied ammo I would follow your lead & keep the heavier spring. 21 minutes ago, zombywoof said: DA/SA pistols are a different animal A bit of thread drift, apologies. Edited January 1, 2018 by IHAVEGAS link did not work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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